Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Seem to recall a mate who got his r34 gtt turbo highflowed from gcg turbos for 1700bux but they are in sydney so you could perhaps ship it down?, dont know if the prices have come down.

Any thought on buying a garrett item or hks? tad more expensive but you can always sell your old one to make up the difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234357-gcg-highflow/#findComment-4108366
Share on other sites

Depends how much you want to spend really... And if you want a ball bearing or journal bearing turbo. If you supply the turbo the highflowing/rebuilding cost is usually around 1000-1500 if you want to keep it journal bearing. Depending how cheap you find a second hand highflow or even a blown highflow would determine which path to travel. Rebuilding journal bearing turbo's is relatively cheap compared to a ball bearing.. as in 500-600 for a rebuild compared to 1000ish for a ball bearing rebuild.

If you get yours highflowed however you can be guaranteed that your banjo's and oil/water lines will line up... you also build a relationship with your workshop and get a warranty.

I don't know brisbane so can't help you out any further:)

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234357-gcg-highflow/#findComment-4108373
Share on other sites

Depends how much you want to spend really... And if you want a ball bearing or journal bearing turbo. If you supply the turbo the highflowing/rebuilding cost is usually around 1000-1500 if you want to keep it journal bearing. Depending how cheap you find a second hand highflow or even a blown highflow would determine which path to travel. Rebuilding journal bearing turbo's is relatively cheap compared to a ball bearing.. as in 500-600 for a rebuild compared to 1000ish for a ball bearing rebuild.

If you get yours highflowed however you can be guaranteed that your banjo's and oil/water lines will line up... you also build a relationship with your workshop and get a warranty.

I don't know brisbane so can't help you out any further:)

Cheers.

His turbo is already ball bearing.

Yes you can send yours to GCG in Sydney to high flow. I have one. Yes it's cheaper if you can find a blown turbo to send them then sell yours in good condition. I just blew mine so the choice was obvious.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234357-gcg-highflow/#findComment-4108624
Share on other sites

How does a GCG BB highflow compare to a similar sized HKS or Garret item?

Is the difference huge in performance and response?

Does Garret even make a direct bolt on incl. standard dump pattern for RB25?

Last time i looked, GCG was charging $1950 exchange.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234357-gcg-highflow/#findComment-4108645
Share on other sites

i thought of going through the gcg high flow route but iv decided to go for HKS GTRS which is muich more reliable than the gcg high flow and is also a direct bolt on kit for R33

from nengun its 2600 delivered minus the cost of selling your good conditioned turbo

gcg charge 2000 to high flow your standard turbo. so for the extra 300 odd definetely go HKS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234357-gcg-highflow/#findComment-4109503
Share on other sites

Mmm decisions decisions.

What sort of boost can a highflow handle?

GTRS's can easily do 20 psi i hear. Since they are fairly small they would spool to 20 psi pretty quick too!

Now I'm leaning towards the GTRS again...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234357-gcg-highflow/#findComment-4109549
Share on other sites

Mmm decisions decisions.

What sort of boost can a highflow handle?

GTRS's can easily do 20 psi i hear. Since they are fairly small they would spool to 20 psi pretty quick too!

Now I'm leaning towards the GTRS again...

Go onto youtube and type in hks gt-rs; there is a bloke who posted like 9 videos of his gtst with the gt-rs and it is amazingly responsive, frys the tyres very easily.

it will change your mind on the highflow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234357-gcg-highflow/#findComment-4109737
Share on other sites

Why rebuild or repair a turbo when its nearly the price of buying one new?. The HKS GTRS will love 2 bar.

:P ummmm for about 3 seconds before it pushes that much hot air it'll melt all 6 pistons.....way out of the GT-RS's efficiency rating.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234357-gcg-highflow/#findComment-4109750
Share on other sites

Go onto youtube and type in hks gt-rs; there is a bloke who posted like 9 videos of his gtst with the gt-rs and it is amazingly responsive, frys the tyres very easily.

it will change your mind on the highflow.

+ 1

the turbo looks brutal. perfect upgrade for GTS-T

Edited by DrewII
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234357-gcg-highflow/#findComment-4109937
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
×
×
  • Create New...