Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This isn't in anticipation of the dyno day is it???

:bahaha:

Boosters are shit, they only raise 0.1 of a octane point.

There's really one foolproof way and that's 10% or more toluene.

That gives real full points octane boostage. But I wonder if it's worth it. It certain is in track situations.

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-501526
Share on other sites

my experience was quite crap dude....

filled up with mobil synergy 8000 and a bottle of octane booster a couple of nights before my maiden EC off street drags with the wrx.

car started misfiring and it couldnt shake it till after EC...misfired all the way down the quarter but still ran a 13.5s...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-501808
Share on other sites

I used octane booster for racing type affairs when my tune wasn't the best. Obviously only an advantage when using the best fuel available to you. On another note, also very handy for country trips where there is only shitty regular fuel available.

I have used the Nulon Pro-Strength as I was stuck with regular in country NSW and it worked a treat.

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-502148
Share on other sites

I use the Nulon stuff as well. Your car has to be tuned for it to be effective so you can't just chuck it in and expect it to work. Everyone that tells you their car ran rough when they tried it is finding this out.

More people say it doesn't work and some say it slowly wrecks your internals but no one has so far backed it up with evidence as far as I've seen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-502731
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Blitz

Does some interesting things to spark plugs - as far as I know you can use you as long as your engine is running hot enough to burn it up. Anyone care to clarify?

This may seem like a controversial statement:

"You should run your car on the lowest octane fuel it is designed for."

But if you look into what happens during combustion it becomes a bit clearer. For the best performance (be it economy or power) there needs to be a controlled burning of the fuel air mixture. This is dependant on pressure, mixture, fuel, temp., ignition and whatever else.

By raising the octane rating of the fuel it will resist detonation (where the fuel/air mix explodes rather than burns), i.e. the infamous "detonation" or "pinging". Put simply, the higher the compression ratio (or boost) then the higher the octane rating required for the fuel.

Now, if you are running 98 octane in your engine that is designed to run on 91 then all the fuel is not being burnt during combustion as the temperatures and pressures are not high enough. Therefore a reduction in performance will be the result.

If your engine has a knock sensor fitted then it will automatically adjust the timing to suit whatever fuel is going through the pipes for the required performance. That's about it as far as my technical knowledge goes.

Now someone please correct me if I'm wrong:

The knock sensor is also called a lambda sensor and measures the unburnt oxygen via the oxygen sensor, right? If the system is a closed loop system then it can adjust the timing to suit the fuel used.

The RB25DET (stock ECU) does not have this as you have to tune it for the fuel being used , right?

Any corrections appreciated. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-504126
Share on other sites

Avgas will coat your O2 sensors as well as block up your cat convertor! I Always run Optimax or Ultimate with Wynns race formula or Nulon prostrength when iwind the boost up on the Sx as insurance against pinging. I would have thought that ALL Jap imports would benefit greatly from 98 fuel & a good octane booster as there tuning is designed for 100. My Mates 300zx improved considerably from 98 & NF blackoctane booster as he could put another couple of degrees timing into it. He Run 13.2 then with timing dropped to 12.8.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-504292
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...