Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now that i finally have a SAFC II (thanks Bam)

The car went in this morning to xspeed to get sorted out.

hopefully i will be able to get rid of the blasted poping at 4.5K upwards and be able to give it fuul stick for once!:uh-huh:

the car went in with 165rwhp (filter, exhaust, BOV and bleed)

hanging out to see what i get out of it.

i cant wait

will let you know tomorrow

nate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23451-the-car-goes-in-today-for-the-tune/
Share on other sites

xspeed know their stuff right?

(i hope im not vialating any business agreement here on the forums, its just a harmless question...)

you would have to admit though, that there are your good tuners and your bad tuners! we have all heard stories of what went wrong with the odd tuning job at whatever tuning shop.

well its back....

good news and bad

good:

im up to a 249wrhp!!!!!

i should probably put alittle of the explination in to the difference of dynos ie. the 1st figure of 165hp was from tim slakos dyno and the recent firgure of 249hp is from the gene exhausts one.

plus also i guess i also have extra 3psi boost now plus a safc tuned car now... im so wraped :D

bad:

the pop/miss is still there. it showed up on the dyno HUGE TIME!

isnt not as bad now.

i hoping that the plugs are just fowled from it running too rich for sooo long.

i will also have to check the coil packs too i guess.

anyone clued up on this proceedure?

it it the resistance between terminal a + c?

thanks guys

Nate

yeah sorry steve, i was going to head up your way for the install/tune. but at the moment it was just more convenient for me and others around me, to get it done close.

any chance i can rattle your brains on the weekend over the popping/ possible ignition problem matter?

Hmmm, 249hp seems lowish. I had 245hp with just upped boost via my blitz sbc, dump+front pipe and stock ecu with no safc. Though this was done on steve's dyno

man youre car is good

i had a similar flatspot/misfire etc problem and it ended up being a coil pack. if you can get your hands on a spare one just swap them in and out til you find the culprit. or maybe try the ignitor module...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...