Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having a huge cleanout of 32 GTR parts. All parts are in Melb. Frieght at buyer expense. I will get sizes and weight for you but you have to price the freight up and I will confirm it once you actually want it.

Gauges and Electronics

Apexi Electronic Oil pressure and Exhaust temp gauges and senders with max warning $300 pair

HKS Vane Controller - Very Rare and wanted.

Deletes the need for afm's and can control fuel rates $500

HKS Turbo timer $80 plugs straight into dash loom

Blitz and Mines ECU's $100 each

Engine/Drivetrain

Front drive shafts (need boots) $100 pair

Rear diff and drive shafts $250

Rear drive shafts $150

Blitz external venting BOV's $175 pair or $200 with std gtr pipe to mount on.

Grex Remote Oil Filter re-locator $150

3 GTR radiators $80 each Same as gtst.

Fuel tank with hangers/pump/sender/filler neck $250

RB26dett head with hang-ons, covers, turbos $1250

Complete block, crank, pistons pumps etc $600 Original bore

Sump with diff $250

Might sell some parts of engine for right money.

R34 GTR intercooler in excellent condition $300

Suspension/Brakes

Apexi Shocks height and damper adjustable $350 not to hard-nice

Front GTR calipers and 296mm drilled disks $225

Tein HA height and damper shocks and springs $500

324mm slotted disks-new, spacer kit to run 324mm disks and overhauled calipers and braided lines with heaps of set used performance pads Upgrading to big 355mm brembo's. Best upgrade you can do without spending thousands of dollars. Almost as good as GTR brembos. Same pad width just looses 5mm on height at the bottom. No brake fade running 1.23 at Sandown and 1.52 and PI or 20 min sessions running 1.10's at Wakefield with a few laps to cool engine oil down in the middle.

Will fit R32 gtst, gtr and R33 gtst

$650

Interior

Rear seat $150

Dash board VGC $125

Dash boards. Small boubles in front of passenger $40 each

2 sets nissan floor mats $80 each

Body

RH rear quarter window $60

LH door window w/tint $40

GTR fuel cap door $50

Rear Bumper reo $60

Original Windscreen $100

Door LH complete $75 no trim

RH door $30 bare

Few mirrors $30 each

Also have a shell for sale $2000 rolling with heaps of hang ons. Has import approval under old scheme so can be complied.

Please don't ask for other stuff as this all I have. No swaps either or low ballers. I won't get back to you if you offer stupid prices. Will budge on some stuff but no others. If you know what it looks like please don't ask for pics for silly things.

Some stuff is back up for sale due to time wasters so if I told you it was sold and its relisted I still have it.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cheers Mat. Sorry only selling the whole set. I need the money from the whole set for disks and pads for the upgrade.

Kevind but the shell and you can have the door rubber.

Bris you dirty world traveller. I can hear your car whining and howling in your garages corner like a neglected dog. Holding expecially for you.

I have the hinges for it but no internals. Hense the price. I should have a LH mirror but will need to check.

hey mate

what year is the crank from?

was after a late model for the oil pump drive issue?

cheers

No idea what year the crack is from. Its stilll in the bolck atm. What do I need to look for??? Don't really want to have to remove it as I don't have the space to store it once its apart.

Cheers Badgtr34. I'll get you the pics you requested soon. Had to remove the cover off one of the gauges to replace the globe so I need to get it back together before I take the photos.

I'll see whats involved to get the oil pump off.

hi, could i have pics (both front and rear) of the GTR intercooler? and what size is it also

Cheers

The intercooler is 60x300x600 and is very light weight compared to earlier models. They are a more efficient at cooling than the r32 and r33 gtr intercooolers. I am to believe these can cool/flow well enough to suppport upto 350ish rwkw

It a little dirty in the photo becasue it hasn't been clean since I removed it from the car a few months ago.

post-1670-1221359064_thumb.jpg

post-1670-1221359094_thumb.jpg

The diff came in a shell i bought. I removed the rear cover and the gears are in perfect condition-no spalling. There was also no metal paste sitting in the bottom of the housing. From what I can see it appears to be a very good diff that hasn't copped a hard time. The oil was very clean so I'm guessing the clutchs haven't been wearing. It turns freely with no binding.

hey buddy,

I'll come buy the rear diff and drive shafts now. Im at the shop so you can call me on 9338-5277 and we can talk details.

Regards Dave

Sorry. I cannot edit the first post. The rear diff doesn't come with the drive shafts. They are being sold seperately.

It is meant to read

Rear diff $250

Rear drive shafts $150

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...