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Noob - Car, Plans And Questions

Sparkys

By Sparkys,
in South Australia

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Sparkys Community Regular

Sparkys

Posted
Posted

Hi all.

I'm new to this forum. I have just bought an R32 with an RB25DET NEO conversion. It's in a zillion pieces and I'm going to repaint it, engineer it and use it as a weekend warrior. I have a couple of questions though.

When the motor is running, oil pressure is very high. The motor has an RB25 oil pressure sensor but an R32 oil pressure gauge. Does the RB25 and the RB20 send the same voltage signal to the oil pressure gauge, or is the high oil pressure an indicator of a blocked oil return etc (I've only run the motor for about 10 minutes so far).

Secondly, do front mount intercoolers need to be engineered? If so I'll put it in before taking it to get engineered. If not, I'll do it after.

Thirdly, can anyone recommend a good engineer in the Adelaide Hills area?

Cheers!

Sparky

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Damo_R34 Grand Master

Damo_R34

Posted
Posted

I dont think you will have to get the engine engineered, just upgrade to 34 GT-T rotors and calipers and you should be fine with regency. FMIC's do not need to be engineered, however they will only be legal if there is no cutting/modification to the reo, no cutting/modification to the chassis and it is bolted on correctly so that it deosn't move around (including the piping). AFAIK anyway...

Definately a sweet little project you've got yourself, good luck!!

Jonnyboy89 Collaborator

Jonnyboy89

Posted
Posted

32 with rb25 neo! ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::P

nice car by the sounds mate! hope it gets out and works alright for ya! goodluck! try the recommended workshops thrread on sau, and nissansilvia.com for some ideas for engineers

Import S13 Veteran

Import S13

Posted
Posted

if you can take the car for a quick drive and get the car at full temp see what happens to the temp. once my car is first started the oil pressure is abit high but drops after the car gets to full temp.

front mounts are not illegal if you havent cut through the chassis or damaged ther reo as damo_34 has said and mounted correctly.

apply at regency for an engine swap form thing and send it through to them and see what they say. if you have the correct rated breaks to the engine you could get away with it but if not youll need to get the car engineered. if they say this, ask them for which engineer to use, i know on their site somewhere they have a huge list of them to pick from

Import S13 Veteran

Import S13

Posted
Posted

here you go mate, this could be usefull to you. scroll down to about the 6th page and work your way thorugh it :)

http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/person..._bulletin_3.pdf

and heres that list of engineers that i was talking about. could be worth talking to them before regency i recomend Rory thompson!

http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/person...d_engineers.pdf

happy reading :)

kye

Sparkys Community Regular

Sparkys

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers for all the help peeps!

ovrtym33, I'll get in touch with you if Regency say 33 brakes are enough. Do you have the calipers too or just the rotors?

ImportS13, cheers for the links. I dropped into JAZMAC performance in Mt Barker the other day, he also recommended Rory.

All others, cheers for the positive comments. I'm looking forward to getting it on the road.

RE oil pressure, it sits on 8 when idling and climbs above the gauge when revved hard, which I think is way too high. What grade oil should be used in them? As it's possibly too viscous and not flowing well enough. I need to do a full fluid change.

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted (edited)
RE oil pressure, it sits on 8 when idling and climbs above the gauge when revved hard, which I think is way too high. What grade oil should be used in them? As it's possibly too viscous and not flowing well enough. I need to do a full fluid change.

7.5w40 or 10w40 is what most people use. 80psi is normal on my aftermarket gauge for idle when the car has just been cranked. once the oil has warmed up it sits on 30 psi. If I drive the car after its just been started, pressure goes past 80, but never 100psi (which is the max of my gauge). Most times it sits on 40/50 psi while driving after engine is hot, with an idle of 25-30psi. If you get below 20psi, be concerned.

-D

Edited by Dohmar
  • 2 weeks later...
Sparkys Community Regular

Sparkys

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I did an oil/filter change using genuine Nissan parts and it still registered very high. So I bought an oil pressure tester and an engine manual. I connected it up to the block and warmed up the motor. The pressures just over what the book says it should be on, so I'm happy with that. The problem is with the oil pressure gauge. I could mount an aftermarket one but I'd like all factory guages to display the correct figure.

There's obviously a voltage difference between the RB20 and RB25 oil pressure sensors, however they're listed in the parts catalogue as using the same sensor!!?? Any thoughts? Can I get the stock 32 gauge recalibrated?

chops Experienced

chops

Posted
Posted

I know one member here had a HUGE issue with engineering her NEO engined R32 - particularly with the brakes.

Apparently the RTA were real idiots with regards to it requiring a particular rotor thickness, and thicker ones wouldn't pass!

It can and has been done however.

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