Rb30/26 Head Studs? Help Please

[Ben C34]

Also there are plenty of rb25s making around 400kw using rb25 studs so dont worry about it being a weak link.

[luke gtr]

im using arp 25 head studs.

with 26 head.

444.8rwkw @19 - 20psi

[sultanaz]

Read the post by rips a few up. I wouldn't worry at all about using rb25 head studs.

Yeah i seen that , 8 second defs made me feel better but usually 8 seconds could be rebuilt motors after so many runs etc..

Ok this is excellent feed back... This makes me feel alot better about it.

Did you guys torque the bolts to the recommended setting or go a lil extra?

From memory it was like 85

[luke gtr]

followed workshop manual.

[GTRPSI]

Dont go more torque than in the manual.

Any more may distort the deck of the block which you dont want.

Also remember the RB30 block is thinner and weaker around the bolt holes, the block material is also a lot softer than studs, so removing thread to fit a bigger stud only weakens your blocks deck area for the sake of adding more bolt strength which is already more than adequate.

The deck will distort more than the bolts can stretch.

We are using RB25 studs on our 600KW build.....any give will be from the block deck distorting to hold the studs/head down, not weak studs stretching......

Go back to page 1, 2 well known builders who do this for a reason, if there was a gain going bigger, they would have been doing it.

Edited November 5, 2013 by GTRPSI

[sultanaz]

excellent man.

more feedback the better for me and future people.

anyone else?

[sultanaz]

This is what was tripping me out abit too, no tuner i spoke to said they have ever encountered the casting mark where the idler goes... they said they are all flat .

The casting gets in the way of mine... it wasnt a big issue we made it flat but dno if that helps u guys distinguish what type of block it is.

[Ben C34]

This is what was tripping me out abit too, no tuner i spoke to said they have ever encountered the casting mark where the idler goes... they said they are all flat .

The casting gets in the way of mine... it wasnt a big issue we made it flat but dno if that helps u guys distinguish what type of block it is.

there is at least one thread on here with a block with the same issue, I think he was in the usa, cos if you are in oz the obvious thing to do would have been get another block.

[GTRPSI]

There are some posts (i think they may have been here) on the web where people have built washer type spacers of fabricated some steel to compensate for the block finish as in the pics above and it worked just fine.

[sultanaz]

sall good we were able to make it flat and fabricate a solid spacer for it .

[luke gtr]

sall good we were able to make it flat and fabricate a solid spacer for it .

that's the proper way to do it.

as alrady said, you can get a washer style pacer made, but being timing belt, youd want to be 100% perpendicular.

[sultanaz]

Yeah defs, it looks 100% Straight, We will keep a very close eye on first start up however

[Gameboy]

Couldn't you get sleeves made up to slip into the head bolt holes so you can just use rb25 ones?

[Ben C34]

Couldn't you get sleeves made up to slip into the head bolt holes so you can just use rb25 ones?

You don't need sleeves. It's the dowels that align the head to the block, not the bolts or studs.

[luke gtr]

You don't need sleeves. It's the dowels that align the head to the block, not the bolts or studs.

this.

the bolts just hold the head down.

[sultanaz]

yeah thats what i was thonking.

[luke gtr]

yeah thats what i was thonking.

lol, thonking....

[sultanaz]

hahah oops

[sultanaz]

Any One else had experience with this??
More info the better

[chairman]

12mm arp L19 head studs rb26