Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Of those people that have used cams what have you found with 300-330akw? I read that some of the guys in VIC actually went back to stock while still making decent power. Its hard to comprehend cams with similar duration and only more lift not helping the drivability but I am keen to hear from those that have actually done/been through it.

You can make 350kw on stock cams but you need more boost than you would with mild upgrade cams say tomei poncams. sure you can make the power but there are benefits to the upgrade when you are at that level of power.

So what's the consensus on boost needed to get into this power range?

20psi or more. 12psi and i have 250rwkw, stock cams etc etc

Of those people that have used cams what have you found with 300-330akw? I read that some of the guys in VIC actually went back to stock while still making decent power. Its hard to comprehend cams with similar duration and only more lift not helping the drivability but I am keen to hear from those that have actually done/been through it.

What seems to happen is not really seen on a dyno. Its on the street, well rather circuit that its noticed the most, better response on/off throttle and that kinda thing. So arguable in a street car in many respects.

I have a BNR32

BNR32

Mods are

Jun cam gears

Hks cam shafts

Jun valve springs

Garrett 25/60r Turbos

Power FC

Sard 660cc injectors

Bosch 040 in tank fuel pump

Apexi air pods

(Standed dump pipes, cat and AFM's).

Low Boost 14psi made 268kw High Boost 18psi 297kw.

So if i boost it alittle more i would see over 300kw's.

Ive done the bolt on upgrades from stock engine to 300kw i went

GT-SS turbos

Trust dumps

highflow cat

700 cc sards

nismo afms

tomei pump

power fc

tomei b cams and wheels

hks evc 5

294awkw @ 18psi

edit stock clutch blew in 2 days

post-30208-1221727742_thumb.jpg

Edited by spilmer

You should just ask Ben most of this stuff, as he is the tuner, he knows whats needed and what works best to make the power and achieve the driveability you want.

I know this because i asked him all the same questions you are when I had my engine built.

I asked about bigger/different afms as well, he said you dont need them, you can tune around it. After my tune Ben had my car running 326 on 17psi! ...2560-5 turbos. Stock cams, adj cam gears.

He also told me d-jetros arent the best for street, you get better fuel efficiency with afms.

D-jetros are better for big singles i rkn, with comp surge etc.

Cam gears are a must, theyre just too cheap for the gains you get from them.

Wheres Marcus? (Ronin09) Hes running a stock engine last time I spoke to him, i think with similar power you are chasing.

Of those people that have used cams what have you found with 300-330akw? I read that some of the guys in VIC actually went back to stock while still making decent power. Its hard to comprehend cams with similar duration and only more lift not helping the drivability but I am keen to hear from those that have actually done/been through it.

The key factor is what the tuner reccomends and can do with the cams. Stock cams aren't bad at all in fact they are very good. To get the most from aftermarket cams it takes lots of mucking around on a mild setup. However I still personally believe that the Tomei 260 units are superior all round for performance.

I have used the Tomei cams on a stock turbo'd motor and I was able to tune more power into it down low than you will see from any of the stock cam / turbo motors in the Rb26 sticky for that matter it would rival most small turbo RB30 hybrids. It made the power with less timing & boost.It was a great setup but, admittedly took lots of time buggerising around with the tune and that costs punters money.

If he replies he's doing it on his own time when it suits him rather than me hassling him with the same questions he's heard a million times. So I'm happy to sit on it for now.

Thanks heaps to everyone for your input. This is a good solid thread now.

We just need the guy who posted all the average power figures to pop them in here (I tried searching but couldn't find them) then we can sticky this.

is this what you mean?

Standard stroke only comparison, includes budget and built motors on 98';

The average for the 2530's is; 388rwkw

The average for the GT-SS is; 335.4 rwkw

The average power made by the -5's is; 313rwkw

Of the same data the best power of the -5's was 388rwkw

Best of the 2530's was ; 451rwkw.

Best of the GT-SS was 364rwkw

budget un-opened/ non-built motors maybe with just some drop in cams it looks like this;

-5's average ; 298rwkw

2530's average ; 358rwkw

GT-SS average ; 332rwkw

im in the process of forging my engine now,, was pushing 270awkw with stock internals/turbos/fuel system,

all i had was hks cam gears /intake (pods), super dragger 4" all the way, Power fc, and tuned ,, and she decided to pull the pin on me a few weeks ago...good fun while it happened tho!

Old setup on mine was,

Stock R33 engine

tomei 260's

80mm Z32 afms

700cc sard

non ported exhaust manifolds (untouched)

GT 2530's

hks dumps etc.

stock airbox with bigger inlet

apexi

adjustable cam gears on zero.

311RWKW @ 12

330RWKW @ 14

352RWKW running 17 psi

322AWKW @ 17 SAU dyno day.

Full boost at 4000ish

Pulled engine out due to flogged key way on crank cam gear. Bearings, rings and pistons were in good nick considering 100,000km from me. All in the tune and servicing, and luck of the draw too. Only damage was from rear ceramic turbo failure in it's original life in an R33 GTR.

New setup getting put in tomoz........hoping for the same and better lol.

Edited by GTRsean
  • 2 months later...

this is really interesting, particularly the figures guys are quoting for the SS's.

I have a 97 33, with genuine (was one owner with books in Japan) 59,000 kays on it, only had a cat back and pods (still had boost restricter in the line :O).

engine compression came back all good, all above 155, within 1 or 2 of each other.

I have just had the following fitted (all new parts):

GTSS's, HKS dumps, mines stainless pro front, tomei manifolds, sard 700's, hks fuel pump and adjustable pressure regulator, tomei pon B's and cam gears, tomei cam cap stud kit, HKS racing chamber kit, decat, kaki mega 3.5 rear, PFC d'jetro, evc6, splitfires, and some other bits n pieces like essential catch can, mines cam cover baffles etc.

Now the car was put on the dyno at Xspeed on Wednesday for the first run, at about 4200 rpm and 15 psi with very rich AFR's as first run, no timing and no cam dial in (as first run) the clutch started to slip at 342 rwhp (X-speed's dyno is I have heard, conservative on power so maybe as high as 345 ish on others) and so the car foot was taken off the go pedal and the car removed from the dyno.

I have now (see other thread) ordered a HKS GD Max which will be here next week, installed and then the car returned to Ant for tuning. Being the eager person i am they have estimated that I will make 380 to 400 rwhp so I am a little confused and somewhat dissappointed with other figures quoted above indicating 330 odd kw which is closer to 450 hp, particularly when I have done every supporting mod possible.

anywho we will see what happens

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...