Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone have a photo of the fan resistor? As my aircon turns on but doesn't blow air out of the vents... From what I can gather from reading this it must be fan resistor

You could check:

- interior fan blower brushes coz they may have worn out (this blower is what drives the air through the vents - underneath dash passenger side - more than likely the culprit as it was for me as determined by the auto eleccy. Maybe when AC is on, tap the blower (usually a black unit above the passenger legs under dash) and see if it suddenly kicks in.

- check if front cooling fan in front of radiator is switching on - check relay wiring. Just good to check. Check voltage to front fan switch

- check if pipes have a bubble - maybe a leak and low gas pressure?? I am guessing here but good to check anyway.

Mind you I have a GTST not GTR so don't know if the same setup or not.

Check out this awesome thread on the interior fan/blower on passenger side I mentioned:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227897-fan-blower-unit-in-r32-overhaul/

I wish I had searched here but wanted to fix my problem that day and then so I didn't check.

  • 7 months later...

Bump, my 32 takes forever to switch between positions..sometimes it will just go back and forth, or twitch the arm.

I've just pulled apart the module and there's white stuff inside? Like mayo?? Is this normal?

Edit: it actually seems like it can switch between positions, but the feet one likes to open as it pleases... I played around with the fan controls whilst I had it apart and I couldn't match up any button that made it spasm.

The cogs inside the module seem to not be lining up, easiest just to buy another one? Anyone know where to get them new?

Edited by Walfers

White grease on the cogs is normal, I had the same thing when I opened up the temperature control motor. I haven't taken apart the vent mode motor so I'm not sure about how the cogs line up, but you can get a new motor through Kudos Motorsports.

  • 3 years later...
On 8/20/2010 at 12:50 AM, soundtone said:

Thanks heaps Sarumatix!

Turned out to be the plug in the center console giving me constant heat. I pulled my whole dash apart to fix the heater core and this is the one plug I forgot to plug back in. One side of the plug is attached to the same loom as the cigarette lighter. It has two wires, brown and green I think. Check this plug if you have been messing around with your dash. I'm so happy to get this fixed!

Did your plug look like this?

878145DA-A331-4178-AFAB-ACFE3AE73887.jpeg

  • 3 weeks later...
On 9/19/2008 at 4:19 PM, Rekin said:

Plenty of R32 GTST's have a problem where the climate control only blows hot air or cold air.

Even whilst cycling through the temperatures, the air doesnt seem to change.

First step is to check if everything is fine with your climate control;

Follow the below steps, if everything is fine, your problem might be the connection to the blend-door servo motor (read further below)

diag1nb5.th.jpgdiag2dh6.th.jpgdiag3td0.th.jpgdiag4va8.th.jpgdiag5gn1.th.jpg

The r32 has a common problem of the Blend Door Servo Motor to stop working. This is due to the connection to the motor becoming damaged over time.

Solution;

- Go to the passenger foot well area.

img1718smallzn1.jpg

- look up where the feet air vent is.

img1732smallza7.jpg

- There you should see a metal rod and a plastic clip.

If the rod has fallen off, clip it back into position.

img1728mediumpi6.jpg

img1731mediumke2.jpg

- Cycle through the hot/cold temp buttons on the climate control quicky and check if you can see the metal rod moving. This rod controls the blend door.

- If the rod doesnt move, then the blend door servo motor is the fault.

- Just before the metal rod, is a wire loom connected to a socket

- Wiggle the wire loom whilst pressing the temp up/down buttons. The Blend door motor will then respond and move.

- I used some cable ties to create some pressure on the loom.

img1730mediumab5.jpg

This is just a temp fix, and will not last forever..

Best would be to replace the blend door servo motor and/or harness.

Repair Guide:

repair1kx2.jpg

repair2ay9.jpg

If anyone has replaced their blend door servo motor, please post in regards to how difficult it was.

Hope this has helped some r32 owners with their climate control problems ;)

Cheers

Patrick

I can't open these images?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...