Jump to content
SAU Community

Questions I Need Answers

omy-33

By omy-33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

omy-33 Community Regular

omy-33

Posted
Posted

ok, may sound silly but i am quite concerned with my gearbox.

i'v had a new clutch put in recently, (which i think could possibly just be the old 1, machined)

ok the problem is i can pull my gear stick out of the socket or whatever it is that it sits in,

i don't kno if its normal to b able 2 do that with the r33?

also

odd sqeaky noise when clutch is dis engauged, an pushing clutch in the pedal sqeaks.

and more effort is required in2 getting it in2 gear sum times, it's not slipping though.

um another thing, does every 1 have diff coloured door trims, ie. the carpet stuff on the door,

driver's side blue, passenger is like a blueish brown.

feel free 2 advise me. lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237279-questions-i-need-answers/
Share on other sites
omy-33 Community Regular

omy-33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

um also, has every1's skyline been blowing smoke when starting,

i can hear my, tappet cover, (whatever it is lol) tapping 4 the 1st 5 seconds of starting in the morning.

an the smoke usually stops when warmed up, but still does it in the arvo's sumtimes.?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Gearstick problem - some knucklehead left out the pivot pin that holds the gearstick in position! It probably also contributes to the difficulty of selecting gears.

Take it back, get it fixed.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted
Gearstick problem - some knucklehead left out the pivot pin that holds the gearstick in position! It probably also contributes to the difficulty of selecting gears.

Take it back, get it fixed.

Knuckleheads always have things left over when they re-assemble any machinery.

Take a metal detector with you - and go over the knucklehead with it - and you may still find YOUR pin in HIS pocket!

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

also 7000km is a long time between oil changes on a turbo skyline.... (if yours is turbo) i change mine every 5000 without fail and even in that relatively short time i can feel a difference when i change the oil that means it would be better if i did it alittle under 5000km, also i use elf oils, i find them pretty good

grigor Rising Star

grigor

Posted
Posted
and get my gearstick pin put in.

It's actually a circlip, probably just not installed correctly and it popped back out.

Grab a couple of oil filters with your new oil if you haven't done a service in over 7000k's.

Your nice new oil will quickly strip the gunk off which then goes straight to the filter.

Do a filter change after say 500k's, top up according to the stick and hope your lash adjusters come good.

gfunkk Rising Star

gfunkk

Posted
Posted (edited)
also

odd sqeaky noise when clutch is dis engauged, an pushing clutch in the pedal sqeaks.

and more effort is required in2 getting it in2 gear sum times, it's not slipping though.

um another thing, does every 1 have diff coloured door trims, ie. the carpet stuff on the door,

driver's side blue, passenger is like a blueish brown.

feel free 2 advise me. lol

the clutch pedal needs a bit of oil around the spring area that will stop it squeaking... my guess is when you got your clutch replaced the put a heavy duty one in... its a bit heavier but it can take a beating!

door trims?

never see premade ones for sale, buy some 2nd hand ones and take out the carpet and put your own fabric where the carpet was, or if you wanna be real cool replace the fabric with a sheet of carbon fibre :banana:

p.s listen to gringor ^^^ you need to change your oil and filter on/before 5000km if you want your engine to last

Edited by gfunkk
omy-33 Community Regular

omy-33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys, for the advice, what is a good oil filter to use, while we r on the subject.

an yes i have carbom fibre material at home, im going to cover the door trims and possibly the area around the instrument clusters.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...