Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 374
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Awesome result!.

Sorry if I missed it earlier Trent, but what sort of AFR's was it running?

kinda like to keep that under wraps (like engine specifics and headwork etc) but leaner than the average tune i see come in.

Edited by URAS

Great peek whp result, I can't imagine what that would be like in 2wd with it as laggy as it is then having so much come in so quick, I can't see that car having alot of traction! lol.

If that engine was in a GTR what whp in 4wd do you think it would make around about?

I have a graph here of 850awhp at 7500rpm in 4wd at 1.9 bar on 98 pump gas done with a GT42 but it comes in sooner and less agressivley, be interested to compare results based on what you thihk that motor would have made in 4wd, do you have any numbers at 1.9 bar? and how much is "a touch over 2 bar"?.

Be interesting to see what it would do on the strip with some decent tyres too.

Rob

around 13.0:1

im serious

I know the Max NOS likes to be lean but it starts lean (when swapping from pump on the same map) and needs more duty on the injector to make it back to the same AFR. That's why I asked about the base fuel pressure cos the spec list says it only has 1000cc injectors in it.

It might be something to do with how dynapack HP translates into DD horsepower - I don't know.

this is a daily driver and response was more important.

Just throwing a question out to everyone - especially URAS - keen to know if people think this goal was actually achieved? I'm aware everyone will have differing views on "responsiveness" but given the graph & stats stated so far, I think it can be a YES / NO answer.

Most importantly, is the owner happy? Or does he/she want more?

I know the Max NOS likes to be lean but it starts lean (when swapping from pump on the same map) and needs more duty on the injector to make it back to the same AFR. That's why I asked about the base fuel pressure cos the spec list says it only has 1000cc injectors in it.

It might be something to do with how dynapack HP translates into DD horsepower - I don't know.

Thanks for giving the game away :banana:

I know the Max NOS likes to be lean but it starts lean (when swapping from pump on the same map) and needs more duty on the injector to make it back to the same AFR. That's why I asked about the base fuel pressure cos the spec list says it only has 1000cc injectors in it.

It might be something to do with how dynapack HP translates into DD horsepower - I don't know.

injector duty (btw i guessed 1000cc, i just looked at the color) was a concern during final runs and ultimately determined peak power (base pressure is also something i would like to leave unsaid) but it was an area well and sorted. All this stuff is really unimportant but anyway...cause at the end of the day it is only a figure but previous heavy hitters running in the 550-700rwkw range on my dyno went on to run nearly 150rwkw more on a dyno dynamics dyno on the westside of melbourne in a dyno comp in dd shootout mode (preparations for the next summer nats) so im pretty confident that the car makes between 950 and 1050 genuine horsepower... as ive said previous any doubters are more than welcome to bring thier cars down and run them up on the dyno for free (providing they make decent numbers, as my time is money) and they can see for themselves.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
×
×
  • Create New...