Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think HKS do a internal wastegate 2835 which would be their biggest internal gate turbo and you would be able to get one that bolts on.

There is a GT30 with internal gate but im not sure if it will bolt onto the manifold but it would be half the price of the hks turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/#findComment-43442
Share on other sites

Got a set of nismo RR580 turbos to go on. But might look at something a little larger.

680cc injectors, air filters, Do-Luck areo wirvin body kit, did have a HKS twin plate but not currently in, 300km/hr white face dials, HKS EVC boost controller, rev/speed meter.

Lots planned once i get the motec m800 wired in and get rid of the AFM's.

You ?

E

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/#findComment-46073
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Just what do you mean by "laggy"? A GT2835 would not be laggy on an RB25 I'm sure of it. I am pretty sure it would be able to make boost before 3000rpm. That's not considered laggy, is it? I used to run a 3037S (much larger that 2835) on my 2L and that produced boost around 3500rpm. So for a 2.5L with a 2835 probably around 3000rpm. Of course it also depends what A/R turbo you're using.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/#findComment-430770
Share on other sites

I forgot I even started this thread. Anyway I now have my turbo a HKS 2835 ProS Internal gated T3 0.68 Ex A/R I think ( upside down it reads 0.89. It has 89 or 68 stamped on it. I am told the way to read it it is 0.89. However listed is only 0.68 and 0.87. Will be a while until it is fitted as I am waiting on other parts (injectors, plenum etc.).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/#findComment-430838
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...