Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls..

I have a question to ask regarding what I should do to my car, Im looking for performance not looks.

My Car = R33 GTST 93 model Series 1 . Automatic trans

-

Mods on it atm = FMIC . BOV . TURBO BACK EXHAUST with HIGH FLOW CAT CONVERTER . STOCK TURBO .

This is all thats done for performance wise. Any help will be much apprieciated.. But im not looking to get a new turbo coz i dont have alot of money to fork out..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238322-modifying-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Hey guys and girls..

I have a question to ask regarding what I should do to my car, Im looking for performance not looks.

My Car = R33 GTST 93 model Series 1 . Automatic trans

-

Mods on it atm = FMIC . BOV . TURBO BACK EXHAUST with HIGH FLOW CAT CONVERTER . STOCK TURBO .

This is all thats done for performance wise. Any help will be much apprieciated.. But im not looking to get a new turbo coz i dont have alot of money to fork out..

you can always go for hks 2530 turbo .

your next move really has to be a turbo. the kkr range is cheap and fairly good, well for the money anyway. ive got one in mine and it goes alright. some place called otomoto distributes them.

trouble is theres no such thing as cheap power after a certain point. you will find that you can get a decent power increase and then you should really be looking at things like fuel pump walbro or bosch ($200), coilpacks ($500), clutch maybe...

based on what ive heard, the standard injectors are good for 220rwkw or so, which is about all you can aim for with your budget.

you will have to consider engine management too. as you can see, this shit starts to get expensive very quickly. i can recommend a bloke who does ecu remapping though, for about $600. great result on my car.

good luck.

you cant afford turbo and other junk so forget that

my list would be

1). boost controller (auto runs less boost than manual) and run 0.80 bar or 11psi

2). fuel pump (gtr or bosch)

3). safc

4). tune the safc

should get a nice safe 200rwkw ish and give you plently more midrange and lowrange and even top end

the safc will sort out your afrs and midrange punch so should be a good allrounder

forget turbos, and other junk, you cant afford it, dont need it and cheap turbo's = junk

a kkr or other ebay junk turbos will perform worse than the std turbo

any elec boost controller should be fine or even a $20 bleed valve is ok

dont spend more then $300 on a boost controller

forget ecu, you have electronic auto so you cant change ecu with mashing the auto box

safc is fine for piggyback

turbotech boost controller 30$ (bleed) or greddy prof b 380$ (electronic)

safc 2 $250ish + $200 tune

should net a healthy 250-270rwhp

might need/if yours dieing/worn

fuel pump bosch $200ish or walbro $170

Edited by R32 Driver

Hello guys

sorry to Hijack your thread Zonk, but i have a similar question and thought why make another thread.

I got the same mods as Zonk but i also have SAFCII, walbro pump and a Boost controller. I'm getting my SAFCII tuned this friday so i was

wondering if i should have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator or will the stock FPR be enough for lets say 200rwkw?

Thanks in advance for the replies.

Giro

Hello guys

sorry to Hijack your thread Zonk, but i have a similar question and thought why make another thread.

I got the same mods as Zonk but i also have SAFCII, walbro pump and a Boost controller. I'm getting my SAFCII tuned this friday so i was

wondering if i should have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator or will the stock FPR be enough for lets say 200rwkw?

Thanks in advance for the replies.

Giro

standard FPR is fine!

if your looking at a budget, and you can afford to wait a bit, I'd try some of the second hand parts dealers, you'll pick up a good boost controller thats not this years model but still good for half price or less.

You can play around with your limited budget that way. You don't always have to go new, and you can save by installing it yourself as well.

Paul is right about the auto box and ecu choices. Standalone ECU's (Apexi Power FC for example) cant run autos. so first would be piggyback ecu like an apexi safc or safc2.

Definitely a boost controller - run it on about 10-13 psi. 13 psi is about the highest you would want to go without causing damage pretty damn quickly to your stock turbo. You would be able to find a cheap second hand electronic one in the for sale section here somewhere.

Then id go fuel pump, more for piece of mind than anything else. your stock one might be up to the task if its in good condition, but for the sake of a few hundred dollars, youd be silly not too, plus you will need one if you want to upgrade your turbo down the track. bosch 044, or warlbro, or pay a few hundred more to get a sard or nismo item. Any will do the job without any trouble in the world.

With the FMIC and turbo back exhaust and a tune, you should see close to, if not 200 rwkws pretty safely. Including labour you should have a little bit of change from the 1500 you want to lay out. If you DESPERATELY wanted to spend it all on your car, then id get some suspension/handling mods. Coilpacks should be ok, get your tuner to check them out. Tuner will probably change your sparkplugs for you as well.

There is nothing else you need for this stage in terms of gaining power.

with 200rwkws your car will feel a WHOLE lot better and fun to drive!! and it will be genuinely quick.

The next stage is a turbo upgrade, and basically no matter what way you look at it, the bottom line cost is going to be a lot.

I dont agree about the cheaper turbos though, obviously steer well clear of ebay turbos, but i have personally seen people getting pretty good figures out of hypergear and kkr turbos (although obviously brand name turbos are going to outperform them) but discussion on all that has been covered before and is another story altogether.

Hope that helps man!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...