Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls..

I have a question to ask regarding what I should do to my car, Im looking for performance not looks.

My Car = R33 GTST 93 model Series 1 . Automatic trans

-

Mods on it atm = FMIC . BOV . TURBO BACK EXHAUST with HIGH FLOW CAT CONVERTER . STOCK TURBO .

This is all thats done for performance wise. Any help will be much apprieciated.. But im not looking to get a new turbo coz i dont have alot of money to fork out..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238322-modifying-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Hey guys and girls..

I have a question to ask regarding what I should do to my car, Im looking for performance not looks.

My Car = R33 GTST 93 model Series 1 . Automatic trans

-

Mods on it atm = FMIC . BOV . TURBO BACK EXHAUST with HIGH FLOW CAT CONVERTER . STOCK TURBO .

This is all thats done for performance wise. Any help will be much apprieciated.. But im not looking to get a new turbo coz i dont have alot of money to fork out..

you can always go for hks 2530 turbo .

your next move really has to be a turbo. the kkr range is cheap and fairly good, well for the money anyway. ive got one in mine and it goes alright. some place called otomoto distributes them.

trouble is theres no such thing as cheap power after a certain point. you will find that you can get a decent power increase and then you should really be looking at things like fuel pump walbro or bosch ($200), coilpacks ($500), clutch maybe...

based on what ive heard, the standard injectors are good for 220rwkw or so, which is about all you can aim for with your budget.

you will have to consider engine management too. as you can see, this shit starts to get expensive very quickly. i can recommend a bloke who does ecu remapping though, for about $600. great result on my car.

good luck.

you cant afford turbo and other junk so forget that

my list would be

1). boost controller (auto runs less boost than manual) and run 0.80 bar or 11psi

2). fuel pump (gtr or bosch)

3). safc

4). tune the safc

should get a nice safe 200rwkw ish and give you plently more midrange and lowrange and even top end

the safc will sort out your afrs and midrange punch so should be a good allrounder

forget turbos, and other junk, you cant afford it, dont need it and cheap turbo's = junk

a kkr or other ebay junk turbos will perform worse than the std turbo

any elec boost controller should be fine or even a $20 bleed valve is ok

dont spend more then $300 on a boost controller

forget ecu, you have electronic auto so you cant change ecu with mashing the auto box

safc is fine for piggyback

turbotech boost controller 30$ (bleed) or greddy prof b 380$ (electronic)

safc 2 $250ish + $200 tune

should net a healthy 250-270rwhp

might need/if yours dieing/worn

fuel pump bosch $200ish or walbro $170

Edited by R32 Driver

Hello guys

sorry to Hijack your thread Zonk, but i have a similar question and thought why make another thread.

I got the same mods as Zonk but i also have SAFCII, walbro pump and a Boost controller. I'm getting my SAFCII tuned this friday so i was

wondering if i should have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator or will the stock FPR be enough for lets say 200rwkw?

Thanks in advance for the replies.

Giro

Hello guys

sorry to Hijack your thread Zonk, but i have a similar question and thought why make another thread.

I got the same mods as Zonk but i also have SAFCII, walbro pump and a Boost controller. I'm getting my SAFCII tuned this friday so i was

wondering if i should have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator or will the stock FPR be enough for lets say 200rwkw?

Thanks in advance for the replies.

Giro

standard FPR is fine!

if your looking at a budget, and you can afford to wait a bit, I'd try some of the second hand parts dealers, you'll pick up a good boost controller thats not this years model but still good for half price or less.

You can play around with your limited budget that way. You don't always have to go new, and you can save by installing it yourself as well.

Paul is right about the auto box and ecu choices. Standalone ECU's (Apexi Power FC for example) cant run autos. so first would be piggyback ecu like an apexi safc or safc2.

Definitely a boost controller - run it on about 10-13 psi. 13 psi is about the highest you would want to go without causing damage pretty damn quickly to your stock turbo. You would be able to find a cheap second hand electronic one in the for sale section here somewhere.

Then id go fuel pump, more for piece of mind than anything else. your stock one might be up to the task if its in good condition, but for the sake of a few hundred dollars, youd be silly not too, plus you will need one if you want to upgrade your turbo down the track. bosch 044, or warlbro, or pay a few hundred more to get a sard or nismo item. Any will do the job without any trouble in the world.

With the FMIC and turbo back exhaust and a tune, you should see close to, if not 200 rwkws pretty safely. Including labour you should have a little bit of change from the 1500 you want to lay out. If you DESPERATELY wanted to spend it all on your car, then id get some suspension/handling mods. Coilpacks should be ok, get your tuner to check them out. Tuner will probably change your sparkplugs for you as well.

There is nothing else you need for this stage in terms of gaining power.

with 200rwkws your car will feel a WHOLE lot better and fun to drive!! and it will be genuinely quick.

The next stage is a turbo upgrade, and basically no matter what way you look at it, the bottom line cost is going to be a lot.

I dont agree about the cheaper turbos though, obviously steer well clear of ebay turbos, but i have personally seen people getting pretty good figures out of hypergear and kkr turbos (although obviously brand name turbos are going to outperform them) but discussion on all that has been covered before and is another story altogether.

Hope that helps man!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...