Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

just wondering if i can get opinions on where i should mount the tweeters of my front splits. im comfortable cutting holes to mount them "properly" but i dont know if i feel comfortable cutting my car lol.

so just looking for opinions and hopefully pics of what you have done or would do. this is for a skyline r32 but this shouldnt matter to much.

cheers :/

p.s. ive had some advice from another forum but looking for some people with the same car and experience

Edited by Entice
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238457-tweeter-mounting/
Share on other sites

Hey dude i also have a r32 and I’m using the alpine r type splits.. What i did was mount the tweeters on the inside of the side mirrors in other words like the interior just that spot you have free. The basic idea is that the tweeter to faces you, so that sound is driven your way. You could also get tweeter holders and mount them on the dash so that they point to your direction too

hi guys,

thanks for the advice so far. it is type r splts i'm looking at getting so that is relevant, but logically it should be the same for any.

i was told that if you mount it on the mirror triangles then the sound reflects off the glass and makes it sound rubbish, also if it is too far away from the mid bass driver it again sounds rubbish.

do you have a pic of yours mounted niran? are they powered or just running off the head unit?

My suggestion (which is based on a Professional installation) is dont point the tweeters at your face. I did this in my old VN Calais. My installer pointed them accross the car, he described that this sets up front staging, and it does sound a lot better.

My suggestion (which is based on a Professional installation) is dont point the tweeters at your face. I did this in my old VN Calais. My installer pointed them accross the car, he described that this sets up front staging, and it does sound a lot better.

I was told on another forum that I should have the driver's door tweeter pointing at the passenger and the passenger door speaker pointing at me, the driver. which is what you are talking about I think. I suppose it would help with separation as you wouldn't hear your side's tweeter as much but you would get the other sides about the same time as the mid bass driver on your side and it would all work ideally.

2r3gzm0.jpg

The white drawings on the above picture (my car when I got it) are where I think i'll position everything. The white boxes being under the seat (i dont know the proper name for these). I suppose I will also mount the amp under the passenger seat, or perhaps the driver seat as it gets moved less.

i have my tweeters mounted in the door trimming and my tweeters are able to move around inside the casing, so i have the drivers side pointed towards the passenger and the passenger pointing towards me. i have pics at home which i can post later if you want.

i have my tweeters mounted in the door trimming and my tweeters are able to move around inside the casing, so i have the drivers side pointed towards the passenger and the passenger pointing towards me. i have pics at home which i can post later if you want.

Pics would be nice, yes :cool:

I just got the suggestion of mounting the tweeter in the kick panel as this is close to the mid bass driver. only downside would be it getting kicked. anyone seen this before?

Picture examples given were:

lancer_9.jpg

banko_2.jpg

Crossfiring your tweeters - passengers side firing to driver and vice versa is common way to get reasonable good sound without fluffing around too much. I have also pointed tweets towards windscreen in an R32 of a friends and had good results using the windscreen to reflect the high frequencys off.

Basically, if you are looking to get the absolute most out of your setup, play around with different mounting positions as possible. I have kick mounted tweeter/mids also and find the tonality is usually better as well not having speaker seperation -e.g. high hat sounding like it's coming from head height while the kick drum sounds like it coming from the floor area. The downside is they can be blocked by feet, kicked unles mounted well, and you generally have a lower sound stage. You can overcome this to a certain degree by running time alignment which delays sound to the near speakers.

If you don't want to do much playing/testing. I'd suggest you mount them in the door sails and cross fire them.

Good luck!

I just put mine in the inside covers for the side mirrors as others have mentioned. I just used the mounting cups they came with. Sitting inside the car with the door shut I put the cup where I wanted it and marked the hole with pencil. Drilled the holes in a smaller diameter than the screws and then just screwed them in. If you do do this make sure the doors closed as otherwise it might get ripped off when you shut the door. It can be a little fiddly getting the door skin and these mirror covers. Sort of have to do them at the same time.

post-13456-1222951296_thumb.jpg

I am no expert on audio setups etc but I find it's fine in this location. I don't think I'd want my tweeters pointed straight at me as it would probably sound too tinny for my liking.

This is in my R33 so I don't know if it is different for the R32?

Edited by Fry_33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...