Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

just wondering if i can get opinions on where i should mount the tweeters of my front splits. im comfortable cutting holes to mount them "properly" but i dont know if i feel comfortable cutting my car lol.

so just looking for opinions and hopefully pics of what you have done or would do. this is for a skyline r32 but this shouldnt matter to much.

cheers :/

p.s. ive had some advice from another forum but looking for some people with the same car and experience

Edited by Entice
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238457-tweeter-mounting/
Share on other sites

Hey dude i also have a r32 and I’m using the alpine r type splits.. What i did was mount the tweeters on the inside of the side mirrors in other words like the interior just that spot you have free. The basic idea is that the tweeter to faces you, so that sound is driven your way. You could also get tweeter holders and mount them on the dash so that they point to your direction too

hi guys,

thanks for the advice so far. it is type r splts i'm looking at getting so that is relevant, but logically it should be the same for any.

i was told that if you mount it on the mirror triangles then the sound reflects off the glass and makes it sound rubbish, also if it is too far away from the mid bass driver it again sounds rubbish.

do you have a pic of yours mounted niran? are they powered or just running off the head unit?

My suggestion (which is based on a Professional installation) is dont point the tweeters at your face. I did this in my old VN Calais. My installer pointed them accross the car, he described that this sets up front staging, and it does sound a lot better.

My suggestion (which is based on a Professional installation) is dont point the tweeters at your face. I did this in my old VN Calais. My installer pointed them accross the car, he described that this sets up front staging, and it does sound a lot better.

I was told on another forum that I should have the driver's door tweeter pointing at the passenger and the passenger door speaker pointing at me, the driver. which is what you are talking about I think. I suppose it would help with separation as you wouldn't hear your side's tweeter as much but you would get the other sides about the same time as the mid bass driver on your side and it would all work ideally.

2r3gzm0.jpg

The white drawings on the above picture (my car when I got it) are where I think i'll position everything. The white boxes being under the seat (i dont know the proper name for these). I suppose I will also mount the amp under the passenger seat, or perhaps the driver seat as it gets moved less.

i have my tweeters mounted in the door trimming and my tweeters are able to move around inside the casing, so i have the drivers side pointed towards the passenger and the passenger pointing towards me. i have pics at home which i can post later if you want.

i have my tweeters mounted in the door trimming and my tweeters are able to move around inside the casing, so i have the drivers side pointed towards the passenger and the passenger pointing towards me. i have pics at home which i can post later if you want.

Pics would be nice, yes :cool:

I just got the suggestion of mounting the tweeter in the kick panel as this is close to the mid bass driver. only downside would be it getting kicked. anyone seen this before?

Picture examples given were:

lancer_9.jpg

banko_2.jpg

Crossfiring your tweeters - passengers side firing to driver and vice versa is common way to get reasonable good sound without fluffing around too much. I have also pointed tweets towards windscreen in an R32 of a friends and had good results using the windscreen to reflect the high frequencys off.

Basically, if you are looking to get the absolute most out of your setup, play around with different mounting positions as possible. I have kick mounted tweeter/mids also and find the tonality is usually better as well not having speaker seperation -e.g. high hat sounding like it's coming from head height while the kick drum sounds like it coming from the floor area. The downside is they can be blocked by feet, kicked unles mounted well, and you generally have a lower sound stage. You can overcome this to a certain degree by running time alignment which delays sound to the near speakers.

If you don't want to do much playing/testing. I'd suggest you mount them in the door sails and cross fire them.

Good luck!

I just put mine in the inside covers for the side mirrors as others have mentioned. I just used the mounting cups they came with. Sitting inside the car with the door shut I put the cup where I wanted it and marked the hole with pencil. Drilled the holes in a smaller diameter than the screws and then just screwed them in. If you do do this make sure the doors closed as otherwise it might get ripped off when you shut the door. It can be a little fiddly getting the door skin and these mirror covers. Sort of have to do them at the same time.

post-13456-1222951296_thumb.jpg

I am no expert on audio setups etc but I find it's fine in this location. I don't think I'd want my tweeters pointed straight at me as it would probably sound too tinny for my liking.

This is in my R33 so I don't know if it is different for the R32?

Edited by Fry_33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...