Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I just finished doing my 100k service and it was a challenging task, I put everything back together and turn it on and its making a funny noise like a belt is loose, so checked all tension in the drive belts all seem fine not slipping, ended up taking the front cover off and seems that the noise is coming from the new timing belt. Its very annoying, anyone have any suggestions in what to do, the belt is not loose, but i dont think its over tight either, I also upgraded my cam gears to adj type????

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238774-noisy-timing-belt-after-change/
Share on other sites

Yeah, mine does it too until it's warm. Mechanic tensioned slackened and tensioned again. didn't shift it. It's a low level whining that seems to slowly disappear as the engine gets temps. It's almost like a cistern filling. I know that sounds wierd but that describes it for me. p.s. my belt is new and I've got adj cam gears.

Gates makes the belts for Nissan and also they do the Racing version. The racing version is more likely to be noisy than the Nissan belt. It all has to do with harmonic of the belt. If you have the genuine belt and an aftermarket gear, the gear could be slightly out of round or the material that is used for the gear is coarse. Don't stress about the noise for the time being. The belt will not break.

On that note, I hope they changed the idler bolt (M10 x 70mm) as this little bastard has a habit of breaking when the belt has been changed.

is it like a whine-ing noise til the engine gets hot, because mine does the same thing.

then my waterpump shit it self because of the tension from the new belt, so keep an eye on your water.

That's a poor installation by whoever fitted the Alt belt. Too much tension or starting the car before there is water in the system fully will cause the pump to go awol.

Best rule of thumb to use is when the belt is tensioned, you should be able to turn the belt 90 degrees on it's side on the longest side of the belt.

So if you are doing the alt belt, anywhere on the belt between the alt pulley and the water pump pulley, grab the belt and twist it sideways. It should turn 90 degrees but no more than that. If it's difficult to get 90 degrees then it's over tight, if it goes past 90 then it's too loose.

Thanks for the reply's guys I think I will see how i go and if there is no change I will have to re tension it or take it to a mechanic and as their opinion and have them do it or depending how much it annoys me then do it on the next few days and add to the mountainous cuts I have on my hands. Such a pain of a job to do the first time but now could do it with some confidence.

Cheers

That's a poor installation by whoever fitted the Alt belt. Too much tension or starting the car before there is water in the system fully will cause the pump to go awol.

depends on how worn the pump was 2, it did look pretty beat up when i saw it on the floor while the new 1 was getting put in.

is that a blue gates belt there?

the blue stuff on the back of the belt makes that noise when it rubs on the idlers.

after 1000 kays have a look at the idlers they will be covered in lumps of blue gunk.

i removed the belt and the brand new idlers gave them a clean with a wire wheel and installed a genuine nissan belt prob fixed.

no more noise.

it had nothing to do with the belt tension,

just a common flaw with the blue gates belts.

Too tight. I've had that exact problem before, same noise. Tension is too tight.

Had a HKS belt and it made that noise. After a while it flogged out the idler bearings (read made em noisy at startup) because they got so hot from high belt tension. The stuff on the back of the belt had melted onto the bearing surfaces as well.

Mechanic did the tension wrong, is all I can say, on mine. I did mine myself by the book, turn crank a couple of rotations and let the tensioner spring do the work, then tightened up the nut while holding the allen key in the same spot.

looks like wil be pulling everthing out again, fark. So to get the tension right, slacken off the bolt and allow the spring to take the tension from the belt then rotate engine a few times and just use hex key to keep tension in belt then tighten nut. Is that the technique???? hope I can get the harmonic balancer bolt off again, thats a bitch to do.

looks like wil be pulling everthing out again, fark. So to get the tension right, slacken off the bolt and allow the spring to take the tension from the belt then rotate engine a few times and just use hex key to keep tension in belt then tighten nut. Is that the technique???? hope I can get the harmonic balancer bolt off again, thats a bitch to do.

If you are local to Brisbane you can borrow the tool I have for doing it. It will undo and do up the bolt with very little effort.

The correct way to tension the belt (if you don't have the weight to get exact load) is to loosen the tensioner so that the bearing can swivel freely. Make sure the belt is on and the marks are lined up. Turn the crank around slowly in a clockwise rotation. You will notice at certain intervals it will become difficult to turn as the pistons try to make compression (obviously the spark plugs have to be in for this). When it is most difficult to turn you will notice the tensioner bearing move against the slack in the belt. Hold the tension on the engine (ratchet or spanner) and tighten the nut for the tensioner with a 14mm spanner. This should give you the correct tension.

cheers mate will be doing it today, ahhh I did crank it over a few times by hand last time but I had moved the idler pulley away with it tightened up not allowing the spring to work, well I spose its a lesson learned should only take a few hours to fix up but thats all things going well, but this never seems to be the case. Ha

Cheers for the offer 3lit3_32 thats very generous of you, I am in sydney though last time I had to get a mobile mechanic to help so let hope I get it off on my own accord.

Will let you know how I go.

Edited by cefiro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...