Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im getting around 250k per tank in my r32...thats utterly ****ed. Any1 have ideas as to why? Thats with not giving it at all, changing gears at 2500/3000rpm. Ive got a remapped ecu, and the AFR is around 10.3 all the way thru the rev range, so its abit rich...but would it make that much of a difference?

Get your oxygen sensors checked... they may be dead... thus leading to overly rich mixtures. It's a prob I'm going through right now as well... just haven't had the spare cash to get the O2 replaced.

Currently getting 250 km's when the right foot is heavy.. yuck... 320 km's @ absolute most shifting so early the turbo goes to sleep...

Anybody know how much an O2 sensor should cost?

i gotta stockish r33, 3" exhaust with pod, get bout 450 from a tank with givin it a bit of shtick here and there, also i would like to add i get a few more k's out of bp ultimate than i do from optimax, and better performance, maybe thats a pointer too?

could just be paranoid delusions also

I recently got ~50 less kays to a tank on low boost (10psi) with BP 98 fuel than I do on high boost (16psi) with Mobil 98 fuel.

For some reason my car doesn't like BP fuel as it feels flat in the mid when coming on boost and slightly hesitates.

Mobil definately feels a lot snappier.

I have kept a record of every drop of fuel I have put in my car for the last 6 months and how many k's i am getting. I will make a new thread with the results after a few more mods so people can get some idea what to expect.

I started stock, then added 3 inch dump pipe and hi flow cat, then pod filter. next is a PowerFC which I am sure will make a big difference to my mileage.

I have not added up any results yet but will be interesting to see. Will keep u posted, just as soon as i get the PowerFC.

Damo

i keep a close watch on my consumption as well.

Its pretty damn bad! With at least 90% heavy city driving(i live in the city so theres a million sets of lights to get anywhere :P ) i get 300-320ksMAX from 50 litres. SO that works out to be minimum of around 16.5l/100km

on the freeway i can get between 400-500kms out of a tank (depending on the average speed more than anything else) so thats around 10-13l/100km

so yeah ive found consumption really depends on how and where you drive.

Edit: car is very close to stock.

When I was still driving auto R33, was pretty bad on fuel consumption, city driving could be about 15L/100km. The best is 13L/100km. Hwy cruising is average 11L/100km.

Now I drive manual R33, found fuel consumption is a tad better, with city driving around 13L/100km, but hwy cruising does not differ much from auto's 11L/100km, the manual is slightly better at 10.5L/100km...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...