Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine is not a daily and i tend to drive hard 90% of the time so i doubt the O2 has much input. Its only had 1 tune on E85 so i'm not concerned (still uses less fuel than my patrol )

I don't see how you can have such little variation in fuel use considering how much extra fuel is needed with ethanol.

Edited by Bond

because mine is a daily/streeter. so it sees a lot of time at cruise.

and it doesn't seem to need all that much extra to give me a lambda of 1 on e-flex

but yes I haven't done a full tank driving it hard 90% of the time. Will find out when i finaly get it onto the track :verymad:

Edit : Also consider 11l/100Km > 14l/100Km as a percentage. My consumption went up 27% Which is crack on ball park for ethanol

techedge will set me back $478 or some shit after GST and freight tho :P

then I gotta get it installed....fark knows where I'll get that done, unless I can somehow just replace my factory o2 sensor with the techedge and plug that into the v44.

i can install it if you want.

Pat, it can do wideband closed loop or use the stock narrow band one.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/10-COLOUR-LED-WIDEB...=item2eb09e11bf

this is the one I've got.

Looks cheap and nasty, but responds fast, is accurate compared to Ed's dyno one. and cheep cheep!

does it have a 0-5v output for the ECU?

http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm

this one is 411 + delivery if you get the 2j9 + 7200 sensor + LA1 52mm display

thats the updated version of mine and outputs to the ECU flawlessly.

does it have a 0-5v output for the ECU?

http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm

this one is 411 + delivery if you get the 2j9 + 7200 sensor + LA1 52mm display

thats the updated version of mine and outputs to the ECU flawlessly.

Yeah man that's exactly what I wanted to get....BUT, it's $411 PLUS GST PLUS DELIVERY. They don't count GST in their original prices :) from memory, it came to like $478

Could you please define to me exactly what "closed loop" means in this sense? I keep getting the impression you tell it you want 12:1 AFR, and it will adjust fuel constantly to keep it there....if that's the case, you'd only need to adjust timing when swapping to E85...correct? that doesn't sounds quite right to me, hence my confusion...but it could be the case lol

Closed loop only gets used during idle and cruise, where the ecu looks at the narrowband voltage, which only fluctuates from 0-1v and can only measure between 14-15 AFR... so the ecu keeps the voltage in between 0 and 1 volt by adding and taking out fuel. thus keeping the AFR's at i nice 14.7/1

This is my understanding of it anyway...

narrow band closed loop aims for 0.5v which is 14.7:1 and is only used during light load/cruise, you can not use it to accurately aim for other ratios much beyond that, wideband closed loop aims for what ever afr you tell it to and can work even when you are using 100% throttle @ 7000rpm if you want.

if you want i can give you the map from my ECU Pat and you can take a look.

wideband closed loop would be awesome! is that what your gonna be running? I'm very much limited to what NIStune can do.

I'll be getting the software tomorrow when I'm "hard at work" and have my laptop there hehehe

so i'll grab it off ya then. cheers!

wideband closed loop would be awesome! is that what your gonna be running? I'm very much limited to what NIStune can do.

I'll be getting the software tomorrow when I'm "hard at work" and have my laptop there hehehe

so i'll grab it off ya then. cheers!

i have been running it for the past 2 years, you can get some excelent cruise econ running 15.5-16:1 with very low throttle

i just emailed the file to you as i dont have them at work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...