Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK so the motor went pop in my series 1 so i may aswell start stripping it for the conversion now. Some parts will come of the autech, so they will be a few weeks away.

I basically have a complete car for sale.

All parts in good condition, will get pics up over the next week or so, if your after something particular PM me. All parts ono. Will post interstate at buyers expense.

Headlights $250 pair

Tail Lights (one has small crack) $200pair

Front guards $70each

Bonnet $100

Front seats $150 pair

Rear seats $100

FMIC kit $300

3 inch cat back exhaust $150

3 inch dump with cat $100

RB25 turbo $300

Pod $20

radiator $100

Rear Hatch $200

Mirrors $50 each

All doors $100 each

Steering wheel (series 1) $300

Passenger airbag $250

Front indicators $20 each

Seat belts $50 each

Front half shafts $100 each

Rear Half shafts $100 each

All rear suspension arms $40 each

Master cylinder $80

ABS module $100

Door trims $40 each (rears have holes from tweeters)

Various interior trims $??

3 Auto Gauges in DIN panel (water temp/oil temp/oil pressure all electric come with fitting to rad hose and sandwhich plate) $100

Aircon control panel $150

LSD $200

Rear hubs/brakes/handbrake cables (can use for 5 stud on s13's?) $200

Aircon condensor $100

Heater core $100

Complete RB25 with loom/ecu (needs to be rebuilt) $900

Auto trans and transfer case (car has done 183k's) $300

All glass $??

rear bumper $100

roof rails $80

windscreen wiper arms $20 each

all i can think of right now, but like i said i basically have one complete car.

0419943997

im in Bunbury WA.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239543-wrecking-complete-stagea-series-1/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

OK so the motor went pop in my series 1 so i may aswell start stripping it for the conversion now. Some parts will come of the autech, so they will be a few weeks away.

I basically have a complete car for sale.

All parts in good condition, will get pics up over the next week or so, if your after something particular PM me. All parts ono. Will post interstate at buyers expense.

Headlights $250 pair

Tail Lights (one has small crack) $200pair

Front guards $70each

Bonnet $100

Front seats $150 pair

Rear seats $100

FMIC kit $300

3 inch cat back exhaust $150

3 inch dump with cat $100

RB25 turbo $300

Pod $20

radiator $100

Rear Hatch $200

Mirrors $50 each

All doors $100 each

Steering wheel (series 1) $300

Passenger airbag $250

Front indicators $20 each

Seat belts $50 each

Front half shafts $100 each

Rear Half shafts $100 each

All rear suspension arms $40 each

Master cylinder $80

ABS module $100

Door trims $40 each (rears have holes from tweeters)

Various interior trims $??

3 Auto Gauges in DIN panel (water temp/oil temp/oil pressure all electric come with fitting to rad hose and sandwhich plate) $100

Aircon control panel $150

LSD $200

Rear hubs/brakes/handbrake cables (can use for 5 stud on s13's?) $200

Aircon condensor $100

Heater core $100

Complete RB25 with loom/ecu (needs to be rebuilt) $900

Auto trans and transfer case (car has done 183k's) $300

All glass $??

rear bumper $100

roof rails $80

windscreen wiper arms $20 each

all i can think of right now, but like i said i basically have one complete car.

0419943997

im in Bunbury WA.

hey champ im keen on front and rear cup holders if you have them in good order and could you give me a price with postage to 3199. also i wouldnt mind the front windscreen depending on how much postage would be to 3199. if its to expensive ill just grab the cup holders. cheers

Both cup holders are good. Will get a price on freight.

As for the windscreen, i think it would cost more then its worth. Dont know howd id pack it either??

OK took some quick pics today.

Can get some more specific one's if needed. Will be starting to strip the car from the 20th of oct as i have a months holiday from then.

Taillights:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02364.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02365.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02380.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02381.jpg

Headlights:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02378.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02379.jpg

Front end:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02368.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02369.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02370.jpg

Back bumper:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02367.jpg

Exhaust:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02366.jpg

Engine bay:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02371.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02372.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02373.jpg

Gauges:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02374.jpg

Interior:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02375.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02376.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02377.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02382.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02383.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02384.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02385.jpg

Assuming that 3" dump pipe is aftermarket, what sort is it? Is it like a bellmouth?

Yeah its a bellmouth type.

Not sure on brand. Mild steel type.

are you parting with any panels? if so what colour and how much for the left rear door?

The doors will come of the autech so there pearl white. Will have all panels some blue some white.

Pm replied regarding exhaust.

For gauges and cup holders $170 delivered.

able to get me a pic of the dump? willing to post it?

Will try and get pic of the dump soon, back at work now.

Had alot of interest in the exhaust atm. Will let everyone know soon.

Interested in the guages if that falls through with loymclure, also the grey stereo/aircon/gauge surround. And also after all the lugage hooks in the boot too if you have them.

Cheers

Interested in the guages if that falls through with loymclure, also the grey stereo/aircon/gauge surround. And also after all the lugage hooks in the boot too if you have them.

Cheers

Gauges may be sold. Will let you know.

The grey surround is still available, and yes all the luggage hooks are there.

What is the diff? In the photos the midnight blue stagea has an RS-Four badge, I thought they were all open-spinners? Is it RC40 (4.3:1)? You can see on the build plate in the engine bay just after the engine code...

Well if the guages don't sell id be keen on them the surround and the hooks... will need a price though :P cheers mate

I'll let you know asap for the gauges.

I picked the autech up today but havnt had a chance to have a good look at it yet as im on night shift till friday.

So early next week i will be able to answer everyones questions and start getting some bits off it.

Gday Neil

I am interested in the drivers side wind deflector and the front castor rods if they are up for grabs

Nothing heard from my pm's that I sent

Thanks

richard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
×
×
  • Create New...