Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...

breather pipe can be tough to get off, it can take a lot of force and wriggling to get it loose, keep track of all of the screws, there will be a few, i spose there isn't really a lot to it, there is a tutorial around here, im going to do mine either 2mro or during the week

will post pics if you like when i get around to doing them

Edited by RusH_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4263191
Share on other sites

Its a pain in the ass !!!! I did ours on Friday had to dismantle the intake and all the pipes etc in the top of the motor. Thats the most time consuming part after that its quite easy. It was a little different to the tutorial as ours is a NEO engine but it is much the same.

As has been said keep track of your screws as there will be a few and take your time.

Good luck with it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4263403
Share on other sites

It depends on your power output. If you have a sub 200rwkw car then iridiums are good, but if you have a 200+ rwkw 'line then your better off with coppers. The iridiums have a long and trouble free life but don't provide the fattest brightest spark, so if you have knock issues with a bigger turbo etc then coppers are probably a better option. Not saying it will solve your problem, but its more likely to help than iridiums can.

Basically, iridiums are not a performance plug, they are more a maintenance free plug.

And before anyone queries, 200rwkw is just the start, I actually had no problems with my iridiums till I went from 240 to 280rwkw [different turbo install] and had to make the change to coppers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4264885
Share on other sites

It's best after ALL THAT WORK to use the high quality NGK Grade 8 Iridiums for your car (or equivalent)

+1

make sure you gap them right, dont drop em either haha

+1

Hmm.. didn't know that copper ones could solve knock issues.... have to look into that. I assume they're cheaper, as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4269679
Share on other sites

try around $3 a plug not $20. I use coppers from the recommendations made in various threads in here not to mention CRD used a set of em when they tuned my car. I use NGK BCPR6ES gapped to .8mm but I'm going to the BKR7ES gapped to .8 as well on the next service.

My VN with a small cam, chip and exhaust has been using the same set of Iridiums for 80 000km and they are still fine, so for a near stock application they could well be perfect - the amount i've saved there not having to buy sets of 8 copper plugs more than makes up the high inital cost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4270222
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...