Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...

breather pipe can be tough to get off, it can take a lot of force and wriggling to get it loose, keep track of all of the screws, there will be a few, i spose there isn't really a lot to it, there is a tutorial around here, im going to do mine either 2mro or during the week

will post pics if you like when i get around to doing them

Edited by RusH_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4263191
Share on other sites

Its a pain in the ass !!!! I did ours on Friday had to dismantle the intake and all the pipes etc in the top of the motor. Thats the most time consuming part after that its quite easy. It was a little different to the tutorial as ours is a NEO engine but it is much the same.

As has been said keep track of your screws as there will be a few and take your time.

Good luck with it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4263403
Share on other sites

It depends on your power output. If you have a sub 200rwkw car then iridiums are good, but if you have a 200+ rwkw 'line then your better off with coppers. The iridiums have a long and trouble free life but don't provide the fattest brightest spark, so if you have knock issues with a bigger turbo etc then coppers are probably a better option. Not saying it will solve your problem, but its more likely to help than iridiums can.

Basically, iridiums are not a performance plug, they are more a maintenance free plug.

And before anyone queries, 200rwkw is just the start, I actually had no problems with my iridiums till I went from 240 to 280rwkw [different turbo install] and had to make the change to coppers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4264885
Share on other sites

It's best after ALL THAT WORK to use the high quality NGK Grade 8 Iridiums for your car (or equivalent)

+1

make sure you gap them right, dont drop em either haha

+1

Hmm.. didn't know that copper ones could solve knock issues.... have to look into that. I assume they're cheaper, as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4269679
Share on other sites

try around $3 a plug not $20. I use coppers from the recommendations made in various threads in here not to mention CRD used a set of em when they tuned my car. I use NGK BCPR6ES gapped to .8mm but I'm going to the BKR7ES gapped to .8 as well on the next service.

My VN with a small cam, chip and exhaust has been using the same set of Iridiums for 80 000km and they are still fine, so for a near stock application they could well be perfect - the amount i've saved there not having to buy sets of 8 copper plugs more than makes up the high inital cost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4270222
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...