Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...

breather pipe can be tough to get off, it can take a lot of force and wriggling to get it loose, keep track of all of the screws, there will be a few, i spose there isn't really a lot to it, there is a tutorial around here, im going to do mine either 2mro or during the week

will post pics if you like when i get around to doing them

Edited by RusH_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4263191
Share on other sites

Its a pain in the ass !!!! I did ours on Friday had to dismantle the intake and all the pipes etc in the top of the motor. Thats the most time consuming part after that its quite easy. It was a little different to the tutorial as ours is a NEO engine but it is much the same.

As has been said keep track of your screws as there will be a few and take your time.

Good luck with it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4263403
Share on other sites

It depends on your power output. If you have a sub 200rwkw car then iridiums are good, but if you have a 200+ rwkw 'line then your better off with coppers. The iridiums have a long and trouble free life but don't provide the fattest brightest spark, so if you have knock issues with a bigger turbo etc then coppers are probably a better option. Not saying it will solve your problem, but its more likely to help than iridiums can.

Basically, iridiums are not a performance plug, they are more a maintenance free plug.

And before anyone queries, 200rwkw is just the start, I actually had no problems with my iridiums till I went from 240 to 280rwkw [different turbo install] and had to make the change to coppers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4264885
Share on other sites

It's best after ALL THAT WORK to use the high quality NGK Grade 8 Iridiums for your car (or equivalent)

+1

make sure you gap them right, dont drop em either haha

+1

Hmm.. didn't know that copper ones could solve knock issues.... have to look into that. I assume they're cheaper, as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4269679
Share on other sites

try around $3 a plug not $20. I use coppers from the recommendations made in various threads in here not to mention CRD used a set of em when they tuned my car. I use NGK BCPR6ES gapped to .8mm but I'm going to the BKR7ES gapped to .8 as well on the next service.

My VN with a small cam, chip and exhaust has been using the same set of Iridiums for 80 000km and they are still fine, so for a near stock application they could well be perfect - the amount i've saved there not having to buy sets of 8 copper plugs more than makes up the high inital cost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4270222
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...