Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not being smart at all... just you were saying you want 400+hp and are thinking of a swap... i know i'd be looking at a 26 :P

i have personally made up my mind on what my motor is going to consist of and its going to be an abortion of RB and Brian crower stroker parts and a turbo the size of a garbage can so i can have about 1500rpms of usable power, however, within that 1500rpms my asshole will pucker every single time. retard style. mmmmmmmmmmBWA(oh shit!) pssht <shift>

i still love the idea of a 1J though, espcecially the single turbo vvti one. the technology is much newer than the RB, which, i love to death, however, it truly is a CA18 with a couple more cylinders.

if C&Y can do it for reasonable money and you want to be different then by all means do it. consider going for a 1.5JZ very popular with the drifters I've been out with around tokyo/chiba/further out. though they were mostly still at home in big toyota sedans and probably looking at 600ps for the meanest one. but they put them to good use on the mountain roads, industrial areas and circuits for drifting. :P and they sound awesome coming down the mountains, but not really any sweeter to my ear than a nicely done RB...

Younger brother runs the twin turbo version of the 1JZ in his 83 Celica Supra. Those turbo's may be tiny.....but lordy does is develop some useable torque - awesome street engine especially in a 1280kg car....and literally screams to the redline.

Only mod is running twin dump pipes of the turbo's and integrate them into the 3 inch exhaust under the car.

Edited by juggernaut1
with that being said, the "team toyo" drift car, not kawabatas, but kuroi's, is running a 1J that he pulled a RB25 out to put in.

anyone running one in an R chassis car?

Originally ran a Rb26 not a 25 and yes it was running a toyota jz... now back to rb26 apparentley.... i heard he did not like the resistance to want to rev.... said it felt truck ish.

Don't under rate the 1JZ or even the 2JZ they are very strong motors right from the factory.

They don't have problems with oil control or coil packs and take a huge amount of thrashing

In America they have had 2JZ run 9 sec quarter miles with stock internals and thats with

reliability.I have driven a std 1JZ supra and R33 and the toyota was a lot quicker they make

around 370Nm at about 3000rpm now thats not bad.I have also driven a 600hp GTR which

was awesome but it took an awefully large amount of money to do it reliable.

jz series are good but there not the motors people make out to be, Yes there strong but some people seem to obsess saying there is nothing wrong with them and never get probs - well yes they do get probs. There stronger than a RB25 and faster in stock form, but there not the godsend people make them out to be. There also very heavy, heaver than all the RB motors.

If you have a 25 dont bother but like you said if your motor does die a $800 buck one would be great especially if it has VVTI.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...