Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, so i bought this thing back in late 2005 and brought it into Australia from Japan through Prestige Motorsport, here's a rough break down of the costs at the time:

Importing Process:

I imported through Prestige Motorsport

Car was bought for 360,000 yen

Brokers Fee $1,100

another $3,000 to get it into the country

$1,400 for compliance

and another roughly $1,000 to get it roadworthy

the car came in a bit rough condition, mainly the paint was faded in places and the body was a bit rough, interior was a little dirty, mechanically it was pretty good, just a few minor issues from sitting around in japan.

anyway this was it's beginning:

WHEN I GOT IT

IN JAPAN:

mycar_front.jpg

mycar_frontside.jpg

mycar_rear.gif

mycar_rearside.jpg

IN AUS:

frontsmall21dh.jpg

frontsmall37do.jpg

rearsmall26ro.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241176-nisskids-32-4-door/
Share on other sites

Then it was complied and registered, as soon as that was done it was time to get started:

frontsmall46mq.jpg

pulled off the spoiler and did a duct tape job:

sidesmall12if.jpg

3" straight through catback with shitty resonator cannon, also chucked an ECV on, as well as a K&N pod:

rearsmall51qp.jpg

quick dyno to see what she's pulling:

dynosmall12ri.jpg

dynosmall21lm.jpg

impressive for a close to stock engine (exhaust + pod)

gave the rims a paint:

front_small6.jpg

rear_small7.jpg

then lowered it on king spring sports lows:

small0dc.jpg

small27li.jpg

bent and defected, she took a bit of a hit, went over a small wall.

barely any damage sustained to other side, even the front bumper was in good nick on that side until i ripped it off

CrashCar1.jpg

see the top of the chassis, little bit grinded up

CrashCar2.jpg

CrashCar3.jpg

rest of the car is in good nick

CrashCar4.jpg

see other side has been left untouched

CrashCar5.jpg

suspension's f**ked, well most of it, springs seem to be untouched

CrashCar7.jpg

getting fixed, still very rough, but enough to pass regency after i fixed a few other things up.

dscn6073je6.jpg

then after a few months of saving and working, replaced:

-front bar (F/G GTR replica)

-wheels (URAS NS-01 - 17x8/9 +30)

-suspension (bilstein dampers, whiteline sway bars and misc whiteline adj bushes)

-exhaust (JunBL muffler with twin flutes + 3" dump and gutted cat)

-turbo (RB25 turbo), a FMIC (since i had mangled the standard SMIC)

-clutch (exedy heavy duty button clutch)

-locked the HICAS

-fuel pump (Bosch 040)

00001qb9.jpg

then the ECU was remapped by Jeff at the Speed Lab, 182rwkw on 12psi

dyno1_small.jpg

time for some skids:

000001bg2.jpg

Grip praccy:

the fibreglass front bar didnt last long, first it copped a nice serving on the apex of corner 9 at mallala, then took a ditch, was unrepairable so just went back to the plastic bar seen in the pic up the page a bit, i had this for quite a while.

also, on went some Volk GT-P's, 17x9 +16

00002yd6.jpg

DSCN9843.jpg

DSCN9841.jpg

DSCN9838.jpg

DSCN9844.jpg

then put the thing into a guard rail, thing just snapped understeer on me in the wet, nothing i could do but keep off the brakes and feather the steering, was taking it fairly easy, mainly just a setup issue + bad conditions + shocking corner, had some run flat full summer tyres stretched, not really good for wet lol.

DSCN9250.jpg

this one cost me about the same, bought parts for a few hundred, stripped myself, sent it off to MC Doyle again, $500 or so for the repair.

had a praccy the next weekend so this was the result:

IMG_3246f.jpg

u should have seen the engineering behind it to get the car like this so it

A. didnt get defected on the drive there

B. didnt fall apart on the drive there, 110k's, no support for the guard or front bar at the LH front

C. didnt look bad enough not to make it on the track

what u see here is the car in my first post except with a hammered out bonnet, a ghetto spare guard i have held on with custom mounts (since the rad support and skirting were no longer there) and a lot of f**king praying :lol:

more skids:

dscn9341ce8.jpg

img2399nm6.jpg

img3064rp3.jpg

img3065po3.jpg

img3066ks4.jpg

img2616na3.jpg

New front bar (genuine GTR) and new wheels, Autostrada Modenas - 17x8.5 +45 (w/ 25mm spacers) & 17x9.5 +38

dscn0029smalltp6.jpg

also R33 GTR rims powdercoated white, these were my 2nd pair of GTR rims but dont have any pics of the first pair:

DSCN0042.jpg

getting a bit rough, note the defect sticker on the window in the last pic, off to regency again.

Then came the make over, the plan was to bog up the body, get rid of any dents, flare the guards, fold the bonnet lip to make it GTR style and respray it the original gunmetal grey.

Front lip folded back in (GTR style)

DSCN0392.jpg

Front Flare:

DSCN0395.jpg

Rear Flare:

DSCN0396.jpg

Freshly painted:

DSCN0942.jpg

DSCN0945.jpg

DSCN0946.jpg

DSCN0947.jpg

DSCN0948.jpg

DSCN0949.jpg

Together, dusty, and ready for regency:

DSCN1115.jpg

Once it passed it was time to make her look real purty, my new suspension arrive (eibach springs with coilover kit), also put some ISC caster rods as the adj bushes werent cutting it. Also had some new wheels come, OZ racing, 17x9 +24.

DSCN12942.jpg

DSCN12922.jpg

rears with some 25mm spacers (17x9 -1):

DSCN1952.jpg

DSCN1951.jpg

Current Specs:

The car is a 1989 HCR32 Skyline GTS-t 4 door manual (converted from auto)

Car:

1989 Nissan HCR32

Skyline GTS-t 4 door Type-M

Performance:

RB20DET

T3 RB25 Turbo

Turbotech Pnumatic Boost Controller

K&N Pod Filter

GKtech Front-Mounted Intercooler

Drift brand Exhaust Control Valve

AM 3" Split dump pipe with screamer

3" Custom Catback exhaust with JunBL muffler and twin Flutes, gutted cat

Straight pipe attachment to replace muffler for track

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Excedy Heavy Duty Button Clutch

TSL Remapped ECU

Power: 183rwkw at 12psi

Handling

Auto Strada Modena 3pce Wheels 17x8.5 and 17x9.5

OZ racing 3pce wheels 17x9 +24

Whiteline urethane adjustable Camber bushes

Whiteline adjustable 24/22 Sway Bars

ISC Adjustable Caster rods

Bilstein/Eibach Coilovers 6/4kg

Whiteline rear urethane subframe bushes

Locked HICAS

Steering Rack Spacer

Alignment: +5.5 caster, -1.5 R&F camber, R-toe in 2mm

Other

GTR front bar

Autometer semi-sweep electric Oil Pressure

Autometer mechanical Boost/Vaccum Gauge

Manual Conversion

GKtech 350mm dished steering wheel

Sparco Rev fixed bucket seat

cheers mate, yeh thought id chuck it all in sequence, a lot of it is covered in my thread on ns but its all over the place spaced out in 8 pages. still a lot more for this car to go, just waiting for the RB20 to blow haha

nice write-up. Looks awesome after the respray!

Thanks for the Uras's :O

haha cheers mate, hope the URAS's are treating u as well as they did me.

What was your technique in doing the guards?

hey mate, basically just used any grabbing tool, pliers, multigrips etc etc, and a few different types of hammers, just carefully pulled out the metal, using the hammer to keep a decent shape, ended up with a bare metal shape:

DSCN0153.jpg

then just used bog to smooth it:

DSCN0396.jpg

just sanded and rebogged until we got it right, it was our first time so it took a few tries to get the shape as close to right as possible.

Hey mate, the cars really come a long way and is looking good. I bought a steering rack off you a fair while ago when the car was in the process of getting repaired so it's good to see it now.

Keep up the good work. :P

Hey mate, the cars really come a long way and is looking good. I bought a steering rack off you a fair while ago when the car was in the process of getting repaired so it's good to see it now.

Keep up the good work. :wub:

haha yeh think i remember that. buying a half cut was so overkill, in the end i only used like a tiny bit of the rad support and an arm or 2 for the repair, but got it at such a great price i couldnt resist.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...