Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry for the noob question but can someone please explain exactly how an r31 with a welded diff will drive... all i ever hears is "it'll be a pig".

the car is for track use (drift...duh) only but i'll drive it to and from as CBF with trailer :D

if not weld the diff what other options do i have for my CHEAP build (only 175-200 rwkw's)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241227-welded-diff/
Share on other sites

Yeah it will just chirp all the time when you are trying to turn as both wheels will be turning at the same speed...normally your outer wheel will turn fast than your inside wheel when turning...Personally it'd be a big risk driving your vehicle to an event as it will be really obvious to the police if they see you trying to turn at an intersection and it will be chirping and skipping around the corner. You will get your ass kicked by the police. Get a proper car trailer or by a mechanical diff (around $1500) or run the risk of getting caught.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241227-welded-diff/#findComment-4213325
Share on other sites

seeing as it will have 17 x 9.5 +18's sticking waaaay out the side too... might be a lil obvious....

the plan was to just drive it to/from till i got busted and then just pay he $ 187 never bother registering it again ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241227-welded-diff/#findComment-4213343
Share on other sites

just do it, i drive my VL with a spool daily, you get used to it real quick, only thing i would sugest is putting some stockers on back/all round coz it'll chew out ur tyres real quick even if you drive it soft. of course thats just for street driving, if it will genuinely only be to the track and back then yeah, just leave ur rims on then

edit: forgot the other part of the answer, your other options are a rebuilt VL turbo LSD/r31 lsd, or any BW78 series diff(i think its the BW78) but VLT is probly the more common one. allow a couple of hundred for geting the centre, and another 4-500 rebuilding it. if you do get a tighter spring in the centre, like 200-300pound, but then it will probly start ating like a locker anyway. keep in mind these diffs are notorius for wearing ot quickly when doing burnouts etc, i htink the 300pound spring will fix that somewhat, but is it really all worth it for a cheap drift hack?

Edited by VB-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241227-welded-diff/#findComment-4213741
Share on other sites

yea they just chirp n bounce a little. my mate put shims in his. no difference to welding it so you might as well weld it. he has had his for over a year and never had a problem with cops. his was a daily and never complained about it. good fun too :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241227-welded-diff/#findComment-4214104
Share on other sites

yeah do it, i had 1 in my r32 for 1 and a half years, the only reason i change it is because it start making a annoying noise, but yeah was heaps of fun, people love the chirps in maccas carparks lol, just take a wider turn if cops are around, i never had a problem with them,

they hardly ever tell you to do a u-turn to check for welded diffs,

and because its a r31, there will be even less police pulling you over, just do it, will be sweet,

o tips on welding, i just got some fat sticks for a stick welder, degrease the whole diff, and use a whole stick in each of the 4 holes, just make it look like a lavar flow in the holes, that way you know there will be heaps of weld and it wont break,

JV

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241227-welded-diff/#findComment-4215827
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome Thomas! Sounds like you've made some progress. Are you able to drive it and enjoy it a bit now ? 
    • HUMVEE are fine in big open areas, but they are problematic on the street and tight areas As for reliability, some of the  US Army guys I have chatted with have said that when they were working they were fine, but, the do spend alot of time in workshops for multiple reasons, admittedly, they did get a hard time by the boys and girls who drove them I would definitely put them in the "buyer beware" category  They do look tough as nails though 
    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
×
×
  • Create New...