Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Servicing

Brendan Diss

By Brendan Diss,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Brendan Diss Explorer

Brendan Diss

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys and Girls,

Well its time for me to do a basic service on my M35 ARX and I was just wanting to get an idea of what sort of oil ppl are using with their VQ25DETs and whether M35 owners use the same oil for Auto/4WD/Diff as with the C34.

I was thinking of using a Castrol Edge 5W-30 engine oil along with Castrol SAF-XA 75W140 for the diffs and Castrol Transmax Z for auto/4WD (as suggested in stagea parts list for C34)?

Does anybody use anything different from this and why?

Also what do other people do for filters? Buy nissan or buy aftermarket?

Thanks very much,

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys and Girls,

Well its time for me to do a basic service on my M35 ARX and I was just wanting to get an idea of what sort of oil ppl are using with their VQ25DETs and whether M35 owners use the same oil for Auto/4WD/Diff as with the C34.

I was thinking of using a Castrol Edge 5W-30 engine oil along with Castrol SAF-XA 75W140 for the diffs and Castrol Transmax Z for auto/4WD (as suggested in stagea parts list for C34)?

Does anybody use anything different from this and why?

Also what do other people do for filters? Buy nissan or buy aftermarket?

Thanks very much,

Brendan

I am using Castrol Edge 5W - 30 in my C34 and aftermarket filters - high flow Pipercross in my airbox. (Also non Nissan synthetic ATF in my auto, steering and Atessa).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/#findComment-4215061
Share on other sites
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys and Girls,

Well its time for me to do a basic service on my M35 ARX and I was just wanting to get an idea of what sort of oil ppl are using with their VQ25DETs and whether M35 owners use the same oil for Auto/4WD/Diff as with the C34.

I was thinking of using a Castrol Edge 5W-30 engine oil along with Castrol SAF-XA 75W140 for the diffs and Castrol Transmax Z for auto/4WD (as suggested in stagea parts list for C34)?

Does anybody use anything different from this and why?

Also what do other people do for filters? Buy nissan or buy aftermarket?

Thanks very much,

Brendan

Hi Brendan,

I use Motul Chrono 300v oil.

I ONLY use synthetic oil and have tried a few - Valvoline, Amsoil, Castrol Edge, Mobil 1 (Supersynth), Motul 8100, Penrite Syn, Royal Purple...

I use the 300v because the car runs much smoother than the others (all have been 40 weight - except maybe the Syn), the engine seems livelier and just runs much better. I normally use the Motul engine clean every 20,000kms, but last time I used Amsoil's one.

From personal experience alone I would recommend the 300v or the Royal Purple.

Also from personal experience I would pass on the 8100, Syn and Edge.

The 8100 in particular left a lot of crap behind :P

I change oil every 10,000kms. It really is not necessary to change any more frequently than that if you use a fully synthetic oil.

I usually use the Pitworks oil filter (same as the Xtrail filter) but at my last change I decided to try the Amsoil filter. It is a much larger unit and uses Nanomolecular strands to filter instead of paper (they also do a Nano air filter which I will try soon). To be honest, I have not noticed a difference.

I have had Nissan perform a full service on my transmission, so the fluid they use with the addition of some kind of "satchel" (which Nissan are putting in all Auto boxes for all new cars... No I don't know what is in it).

I don't know if it was the service, but the gears are much better, smoother whilst driving and much quicker changes :D

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/#findComment-4217343
Share on other sites
Brendan Diss Explorer

Brendan Diss

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks ppl for the replies,

iamhe77,

Thanks for the tip with the oil and the filters, I appreciate the tip and will definitely give the Motul a shot.

Was your transmission running badly before you had it serviced? Its just that my transmission changes really smoothly and quite quickly ( about 500rpm increase at full throttle before changing, is that quick for an one of these cars?).

Thanks very much for the info again ppl :D

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/#findComment-4218053
Share on other sites
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
Thanks ppl for the replies,

iamhe77,

Thanks for the tip with the oil and the filters, I appreciate the tip and will definitely give the Motul a shot.

Was your transmission running badly before you had it serviced? Its just that my transmission changes really smoothly and quite quickly ( about 500rpm increase at full throttle before changing, is that quick for an one of these cars?).

Thanks very much for the info again ppl :D

Brendan

6

No, my transmission was not running badly. It did have smooth changes and changed the same as it seems yours does while in "D".

It is just that with the service and whatever is in that satchel, the transmission in that much smoother and quicker to change. I have not really played around with the tiptronic though.

If you are happy with how your trans is shifting, then why are you looking at changing the fluids? Nissan actually don't change transmission fluids anymore as part of normal servicing.

Like I said though, they are putting this satchel in all new automatic vehicles to increase performance on reliability. I do know that it manufactured in the US and Nissan have purchased exclusive rights to it.

I do not care if it is a satchel of bull sperm. It has improved a transmission that had nothing wrong with it in the first place. The reason I got it serviced was because it was dropping power momentarily when cruising & I wanted to rule out the trans.

Glad to be of help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/#findComment-4218238
Share on other sites
Brendan Diss Explorer

Brendan Diss

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I am quite happy the way the transmission feels atm, just thought that I should change the trans oil as my first service of the car in Aus. Perhaps i'll put it off for a while then, but will definitely keep in mind the top secret nissan satchel for when the time comes :(

Thanks again for the advice

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/#findComment-4219244
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTR Front Diffuser/Guard Liner questions.

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they do. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec How does the liner interact with that? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • MBS206
      Cold compression test after rebuild... should I be worried?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • MBS206
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By MBS206 · Posted

      OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
    • GTSBoy
      Cold compression test after rebuild... should I be worried?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. Anyone not putting the absolutely largest battery that will physically fit (ie, NS70 X) is not thinking straight. the NS70 X is close on double the capacity of the "stock" unit.
×
×
  • Create New...