Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you are all goin to hate me lol ive been keen on getting a 34gtt for a while now

ive suddenly come down with a case of evo7/8 fever! help! i dont know what to get anymore!

they are both good cars. bring me back to the dark side pros and cons everyone im stuck in a rut!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242015-cold-feet/
Share on other sites

Its a lancer; a bloody lancer

studies show that lancer drivers are 98% more likely to die by the hand of an SAU member

cmon most people buy the stock lancer and put a bloody bodykit on it; i couldnt tell the diff from 30metres away.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242015-cold-feet/#findComment-4221701
Share on other sites

Cold feet? get some socks and buy the damn sportscar which is what is was always made to be.

Lancer!!! guys will constatly be speeding up to check you out cos they will think your a girl; jose

Pink playboy seat covers and a mirrorball should be your mods

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242015-cold-feet/#findComment-4221710
Share on other sites

Pink playboy seat covers and a mirrorball should be your mods

I always thought it was a factory option as ive seen so many with the exact same thing.

theyre both good cars. test drive both as usual. do you want a big or small car. do you need the extra doors? worst comes to worse flip a coin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242015-cold-feet/#findComment-4221769
Share on other sites

If your going to get an Evo, get a Evo 8 FQ400.

The FQ400, sold through Ralliart UK, produces 302.13 kW, from its 2.0 L 4G63 engine as the result of being specially modified by United Kingdom tuning firms Rampage Tuning, Owen Developments, and Flow Race Engines.

At 202.9 hp (151.3 kW) per litre, it has one of the highest specific output per litre of any roadcar engine.

Weights 1450 kg

0-100km/h in 3.5 seconds

1/4 mile in 12.1 seconds at 193km/h

Top speed is 283km/h

Top Gear UK did a Power Lap Test and it keeps up with the Lamborghini Murcielago.

It ran a 1 minute 24.8 seconds, which was 4.2 seconds quicker than the Murcielago's time of 1 minute 29 seconds.

FQ 400 Factory Upgrades and already on the car.

Custom built Garrett GT Dual Ball bearing Turbocharger

Owen Developments custom manufactured cast Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold and Exhaust Elbow

Omega Forged Pistons

HKS Forged Con Rods

HKS 680cc Injectors

Zytec ITP116 High Pressure Fuel Pump

HKS 1.6 mm Steel Head Gasket

Motec M800 OEM ECU

HKS Iridium Spark Plugs

Jan Speed High Flow Sports Cat

Alcon competition derived 240 mm high clamp mode, heavy duty clutch complete with Cera-metallic 6 paddle sprung centred drive plate

HKS High Strength Head and Big End Bolts

Alcon Mono6 Brake Kit incorporating Monobloc 6 pot road caliper with 343 mm curved vein Disc on a Aluminium mounting bell assembly with Ferodo DS2500 brake pads

Ralliart Aero Mirrors

Carbon Fibre Front Lip Spoiler

Carbon Fibre "Sharks Tooth" Rear Vortex Generator

PIAA High Performance Light and Wiper Upgrade

Gloss Black Team Dynamics Lightweight Alloy Wheels

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Lancer_Evolution

http://www.fast-autos.net/vehicles/Mitsubi...Evo_VIII_FQ400/

If not buy a Evo and do the upgrades yourself.Or get a R32 GTR or R34 GTR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242015-cold-feet/#findComment-4223335
Share on other sites

you can be as biased as you like.

but the fact is that an EVO 7 or 8 shits on an R34 GTT from so high that it lands on the skyline as a frozen chunk of space dung.

there is NOTHING that an R34GTT can do that the evo can't do ALOT better/quicker.

what is the price difference?..

perhaps if the price was $15K cheaper for the R34 gtt, and you were willing to spend that extra $15K on the R34GTT, then perhaps it might be OK..ish in comparison to the evo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242015-cold-feet/#findComment-4223792
Share on other sites

you can be as biased as you like.

but the fact is that an EVO 7 or 8 shits on an R34 GTT from so high that it lands on the skyline as a frozen chunk of space dung.

there is NOTHING that an R34GTT can do that the evo can't do ALOT better/quicker.

what is the price difference?..

perhaps if the price was $15K cheaper for the R34 gtt, and you were willing to spend that extra $15K on the R34GTT, then perhaps it might be OK..ish in comparison to the evo

Then again more vl turbos run 8-9-10's in this country then evo's lolz

obviously when you come to corner you wont need brakes cos the tree or pole will slow you down; in fact 120km/h to 0 in 5cm and 0.5seconds......Better than brembos.

Im just mucking around; the evo is a damn good car but like we've been saying, its always a lancer......a buzzbox that has been added a better engine and driveline.

Pick the car that makes you feel like a 10 year old boy and what you would enjoy looking at too; I would drive my r34 into my living room just to look at if i could.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242015-cold-feet/#findComment-4223886
Share on other sites

that fq one sounds like a winner but finding one in aus will be hard i reckon

not to mention how much some prick is wanting for it with a rap like that,

awwwwwww i dont know i like the 34 but the 4 doors of the evo are tempting

as well as the evo is top of the range and the gtt isnt.and i dont like the 4dr gtt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242015-cold-feet/#findComment-4223913
Share on other sites

that fq one sounds like a winner but finding one in aus will be hard i reckon

not to mention how much some prick is wanting for it with a rap like that,

awwwwwww i dont know i like the 34 but the 4 doors of the evo are tempting

as well as the evo is top of the range and the gtt isnt.and i dont like the 4dr gtt

LOL!

SAU member saff_cossie has a EVO 8 FQ 400, actualy its a MR Edition but with all the FQ 400 upgrades and the Badge on the boot.

4 door Skylines can look awesome too, a lot of ppl do like them too.

But I think Skyline is what you are going for.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242015-cold-feet/#findComment-4224100
Share on other sites

The Evo is more a competitor to the GT-R one would think anyway.. if I had the money it would be the one and only Mitsubishi I'd own.

Course due to the proliferation of knock off bodykits, it'd be a real sleeper (the lack of neons and bob jane chrome rims could give it away though)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242015-cold-feet/#findComment-4227405
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...