Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Feels Like It's Retarding In Cold Weather

shotter

By shotter,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

shotter Rising Star

shotter

Posted
Posted

It's really wierd. At night when it's warmish the car runs fine. But in the morning when the air is cold it gets up to about 5psi and the boost keeps rising but the car feels like it is running retarded. It doesn't missfire or anything like that it just feel like it has lost a huge amoutn of power. But it only happens when you try and rev it a bit. Crusing is fine. Any idea's?

Tomei_33 Rising Star

Tomei_33

Posted
Posted (edited)

my car had same problems - mechanic said these are the causes

fuel pump

spark plugs

injectors

fuel filter

one of them is dirty.. hope that helps!

i changed my injectors since i was upgrading anyway.. and it worked perfect

Edited by Tomei_32
shotter Rising Star

shotter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yea stock ECU running a haltech intercepter.

I might have to do some reading on R&R.

But ran the car again tonight and didn't miss a beat.....

So its just the cold air thats causing problems

shotter Rising Star

shotter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i took it for a drive last night and it played up again. at about 6psi it would feel like the car is retarding and then the boost would spike up.... but this also happens with the boost controller off too so i dont think that the problem. I stoped it and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Straight away it didn't miss a beat for the rest of the night....

shotter Rising Star

shotter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok this is becoming anoying, it seams that if i leave the car sit overnight or through most of the day it will run shocking as it his about 5 psi. if i drive it and then let it sit for 10 minutes it will run perfect from then on untill it's left for a few hours again. Any idea's?

SL33K Experienced

SL33K

Posted
Posted

whats R&R?

I have the same prob. my car feels funny when its cold. Its smooth but its like it doesnt feel quick.

But when its warm and the weather is sunny it feels really nice and sweet.

I thought it was just me. i just services my car recently. it was a major service.

shotter Rising Star

shotter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yea i think it's the AFM, i have cleaned it, i have replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs. i plan to change the fuel pump and i have bought a Z32 AFM. So i hope i can get this sorted soon. The other thing it does when it plays up, if you rev it out and keep the revs there it will missfire.

bumble_bee Rising Star

bumble_bee

Posted
Posted

you cant put an z32 on a stock ecu..

sounds lik R&R to me..ive got the same problem..wen could or hot...

i got a afc neo(untuned)..to try lean out my fuel abit..

so i drop the fuel from about 4000-6000rpm..wen R&Rs kick in..

and dependin on wat boost ur running too..

this was mention by SydneyKid

"It has been my experience that RB25's run a little lean down low in the rpm range (Nissan do this for fuel economy and emissions) and a lot rich up high (Nissan do this to protect the engine). So I have to increase the voltage (using the SAFC) up to around 3,000 rpm and decrease the voltage over 5,000 rpm.

The real problem is in the 3,000 to 5,000 rpm range as the engine comes on boost. They really need lots of fuel very quickly in this area. This can mean that you need to increase the voltage (that the ecu sees) over 5.1 volts to get the right A/F ratios. The ecu then goes into engine protection mode, rich and retarded (sounds like a girl I knew once). Past that rpm you can start leaning it out as it runs too rich, so the voltage needs to be turned down under 5.1 volts. The ecu sees this as the engine not needing protection mode any more, no more rich and retarded.

So you get good performance up to 3,000 rpm, then sluggish from 3,000 rpm to 5,000 rpm and then good performance from 5,000 rpm and over. The SAFC may not help this, in fact as explained above, it can in fact make it worse if the tuner is not switched on to this stuff.

With bent afm voltages, the ecu (tricked by the SAFC) also fires the ignition to suite the airflow it THINKS the engine is getting. This is not a good thing as you generally end up with ignition that is too far advanced in some rpm ranges.

The poor tuner has to juggle the SAFC settings, so that the A/F ratios are OK, the ecu doesn't get into rich and retard (engine protection) mode and the ignition timing is not too far advanced so as to cause detonation. My experience (I am not a good tuner) has been that this is full of compromises, sometimes you just can't win and have to reduce the boost level a bit to get even a reasonable compromise.

Keep in mind that this explanation is very simplified to make it fit in a reasonable space, the rpm's used are rough guides only and every car is different. "

but ur answer is aftermarket ecu...

but wat mods u got?

but check the obvious lik plug gapping..clean ur afm with some good electrical cleaner...coil-packs?

hope this helps...

  • 3 weeks later...
shotter Rising Star

shotter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I found today that drove it untill the car warmed up. Only a few minutes. and it was playing up as usuall. Then turned the car off for 15 seconds. Started it up and the problem was gone...... Still confused.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By The Bogan · Posted

      It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • perry_r33
      Skyline R33 Sedan Tail Lights S2 - (2 SETS Available) Silver & Grey

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • GTSBoy
      First time Skyline owner

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...