Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey.. thought i'd steal the thread name of the last guy who has HICAS issues. (since it shares my sentiments)

Here's my story (and i hope it's not too confusing)

I took my car to Hyperdrive a while ago and they pointed out a joint in my hicas which has play in it... if you jack the car up, you can rock the wheel diagonally holding front top and bottom right.

I bought a joint from Jap Performance Parts in Ozzy park which (through my description) they thought was the issue.

I then took the car to a 3rd garage (yeah i'm a garage whore), who told me i bought the wrong joint, and that i need the ball joint on the tie-rod of the HICAS arm.

On returning to Jap Performance Parts they told me that the joint in question is not a ball joint but is solid... so now i have no idea what's going on...

here is the "joint" in question:

Joint.jpg

You can kinda see that the rubber boot on it appears to have split.. is this a ball joint? .. could it have play in it even if it isn't? .. could this be moving but the problem be elsewhere?

:O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242350-hicas-burn-in-hell-part-2/
Share on other sites

Take the rubber boot off and have a look to see what's going on under there.

Then just go buy a HICAS lock bar. :O

But seriosuly, have a look for yourself, those boots are easy to get on/off... figure out where the problem is, if it's on the HICAS unit, you could get a lockbar and be done with it... or you could have my HICAS unit, it's in my garage. :)

Well i jacked it up on the weekend and took the boot off.. it's most definitely a ball joint under there and it definitely has play in it.

Is one of those Tie Rod's easy to get new or should i go back to JPC and tell him that he was wrong and ask if i can get one from him?

I originally bought a pair of tie rod's (ie the bit you are looking for not the tie rod ends) for my front steering setup as the original mechanic reckonned they were an issue. The only place I found was through nissan spares and they were damn pricey. Ended up being the tie rod ends instead so I have the new inners still wrapped up in my shed (fronts though so no help for you unfortunately).

Talk to brad at WA suspensions. Great bloke, sauwa member and he rectified my suspension problems. He should be able to help you, even take it ther and get a check before you decide to order any bits and ask what he reckons.

Tie rods (i been referring to them as hicas arms) are cheap as. KYP sold me one for 33bux. piece of piss to change but you need a bearing puller to make it easy. i spent 2 days trying to get it off the outer end joint (wheel hub end) and the bearing puller did it in seconds. you also need to drop the rear section of your exhaust and its all there infront of you. then you need a wheel alignment.

if you decide to do it yourself you can borrow my bearing puller cos i know first hand now how much of a pain in the arse it is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...