Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been doing a bit of research on twin turbo upgrades on the RB26, but now decided to go single. :)

So I'm just wondering what is the most cost effective (also reliable) way to go about it and how much roughly it is going to cost.

Aim is around 300awkw since the engine is still stock and only has cat back, ebc, new nismo fuel pump.

So I assume I still need the following.

- Turbo (which one?) Garrett equivalent of HKS and alike

- Manifold (which one?) and is there such a thing as a single low mount for the rb26?

- Dump and front pipe (which one) + high flow cat

- Nismo 740cc (I like a bit of headroom)

- Power FC

- Cam and Cam gear? (is it ideal to upgrade it?)

- External gate? (do I need it?)

- Other bits (turbo bag, heat wrap...etc)

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242382-single-turbo-upgrade-to-~300awkw/
Share on other sites

Rob why would you do that over a twin system for that amount of output. Just to change the manifolds, oil and water lines, exhaust, external waste gate going to cost a lot more than 2 replacement garrets or such.

You could just bolt on some 2860-5, Power FC, adjustable cam gears, decent tune and you will make that number or get close with a stock engine. Then again i am sure you have your reasons and if you have the cash mate fill ya boots.

mainly just after the simplicity of the single and I also read that it can just as, if not more responsive than the twin setup.

Since i'm going to get new dump/front, and everything else anyway. So I thought I might as well go single.

theoretically... 2 twins will spool quicker than a large single of same power...

thats just physics.. but that doesnt mean that big singles r ghey...

if u want a single, go nuts man :) 300awkw only?? GT35R will do it sleeping

Im thinking along the same lines as you mate; clean and simple to work on etc

str8180 or something; he's a member has an r32 gtr with a 3540 and making over 300awkw, hes described the response as almost stock which is a very good thing.

but i think he has a custom exhaust housing .72 ???

theoretically... 2 twins will spool quicker than a large single of same power...

thats just physics.. but that doesnt mean that big singles r ghey...

I think that the two twins spooling faster (depending on the circumstances) is a bit of a farce but with stock upgrades I reckon it has an element of truth.

If you really want a big single, a .82a/r GT3582R would probably be the most logical. They will break 300kw without thinking about it and will give you a lot of headroom for going further.

N1 block or not.. it will be fine with 300awkw

mines not an n1 block and im chasing way more then that without any problems.. its all in the prep work :P

And that deal with twins spoolin faster is true. its physics.

2 smaller masses is easier to spool than 1 larger mass. needs less energy to turn them. but like i said, that doesnt mean u cant get a single to go just as good as twins

they both have pros n cons.

N1 block or not.. it will be fine with 300awkw

mines not an n1 block and im chasing way more then that without any problems.. its all in the prep work :P

And that deal with twins spoolin faster is true. its physics.

2 smaller masses is easier to spool than 1 larger mass. needs less energy to turn them. but like i said, that doesnt mean u cant get a single to go just as good as twins

they both have pros n cons.

wrong, stock blocks are known to split with around 300rwkw... want proof? i have one at home

yours also wrong in regards to the twins, it has been shown that even a t04z well set up will have less lagg than garrett replacement twins...

if 300rwkw is your goal i suggest a garrett 3076r or 3082r with a 0.8ish bum on a 6-boost manifold

need proof?? dude ive got a stock block...

made 300awkw no problems which more power than what urs made...

plus theres plenty more out there makin tons more

as for proof on twins.. its physics.. so unless u can break the laws of physics which u cant, then stfu

as for proof on twins.. its physics.. so unless u can break the laws of physics which u cant, then stfu

Can you outline which laws of physics dictate that two masses can spin up faster than one for us a bit challenged on that front if you are going to be so abrasive about it?

Im thinking along the same lines as you mate; clean and simple to work on etc

str8180 or something; he's a member has an r32 gtr with a 3540 and making over 300awkw, hes described the response as almost stock which is a very good thing.

but i think he has a custom exhaust housing .72 ???

Str8e180 had a twin scroll .78 ATP housing on his GT35 with one of his own divided manifolds. From memory it ended spitting out around 380rwkw.

I think one of the main reasons behind not many people going the smallish/mid single when aiming for 300-350kw is that it is so easily done with twins. That being said, a single pumping out those figures would be awesome, it would more efficient than twins, and that is not physics its fluid dynamics and heat transfer!

I want someone to do it already so they can be a test mule for others.

Mike

I think one of the main reasons behind not many people going the smallish/mid single when aiming for 300-350kw is that it is so easily done with twins. That being said, a single pumping out those figures would be awesome, it would more efficient than twins, and that is not physics its fluid dynamics and heat transfer!

YES!!! :laugh:

I want someone to do it already so they can be a test mule for others.

Heaps of people have done this kind of thing. Supras and "GTS" Skylines have been doing it with success for years, its the first things lots of Supra guys go for first.

IE, Typical cheap Supra mods = make turbos non sequential (like GTRS), they end up more laggy but make more power. Put a GT3582R on there and make even more power with the same or less lag...

Yeah, I would love to see it set up sweet on a GTR though. In the states ATP and Full-race do split pulse housings for the GT30 series of turbines, I am pretty sure. Definately interesting and a great option in my opinion.

Mike

Power delivery of twins is just that little bit more progressive.

Response once up - response is going from zero throttle to all throttle on corner exit.

Why.. The turbo's sit closer to the ports and good old inertia. Its simply easier to start spinning a smaller wheel than it is a larger one.

At a higher rpm where there's no lack of exhaust gas throttle response on corner exit etc is improved as the turbo's are easier to start spinning/moving.. :laugh:

Mr Lith.. The reason supra guys go for big singles is its cheaper and easier to package than a pair of monster twins that are 450+rwkw capable.

---

Up to 350-400rwkw a pair of twins is far easier. :sick:

Power delivery of twins is just that little bit more progressive.

Response once up - response is going from zero throttle to all throttle on corner exit.

Why.. The turbo's sit closer to the ports and good old inertia. Its simply easier to start spinning a smaller wheel than it is a larger one.

At a higher rpm where there's no lack of exhaust gas throttle response on corner exit etc is improved as the turbo's are easier to start spinning/moving.. :laugh:

Mr Lith.. The reason supra guys go for big singles is its cheaper and easier to package than a pair of monster twins that are 450+rwkw capable.

---

Up to 350-400rwkw a pair of twins is far easier. :sick:

Easier, maybe. Not to work on that is for sure. But, cheaper, definitely! Everyone loves stuff that is cheap and good, I know I do.

Don't forget, you are spinning a smaller wheel yes, but, with only 3 cylinders.

Mike

Ahh yes 3cylinders. From what I've seen parallel twins tend to make their peak boost just that bit later than a similar sized big single. i.e GT30r .7a/r rear on an rb25 to a pair of GT2510's on a 26.

Up in the higher rpm's where the lack of exhaust gas is not an issue it all comes down to the intertia/weight of the wheels ability to accelerate faster.

:laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky the prp block is supposed to be released next weekend 
    • Wow guys thank you very much for the HUGE info :-) @GTSBoy I have like 30 minutes if test drive with that car/engine and it not stalled once. IMO it ran very smooth so i guess it was not that bad(but asi i said it is stock) That atmo BoV is worse than no BoV or in my case or it is/will be the same? Cuz frankly i rather have little whooosh sound than that sututu 馃槃 But either way the less harmfull for engine/turbo the better(if the stock is not an option right away) Yeah about that rebuild i talk with guy who will be doing swap and custom pipes...i think i can get stock BoV or get aftermarket which will function the same. Yeah i looked at that R35 option and i try ask my mechanic more about that if he knows. The engine has stock ECU but i can get Nistune for it. On that stock it runs quite well...but i have limited time with it so rly dont know. Ecumaster is this https://www.ecumaster.com/  It is not some dodgy backyard ECU :-)  @MBS206 Yeah but it will be better to have Nistune than the completely stock ECU no? About that "same" atmo/no BoV. The drivebility would be the same? I dont know but i kinda guess that amto BoV would cause more problems than no BoV in my case? Or is the same? You just "change" one sound for the other? Yeah i read many many many topic about hurting the turbo. But no one know anybody that would 100% tell that his turbo/engine blows/get damaged by not running BoV. Of course turbo would be little happier IMO if it has BoV ..but if you do not trash i think i should be good. And as you can see iam already trying to get this right...just working what i have right now :-) Yeah iam kinda the same...i dont want nothing loud and frankly iam not liking that sututu noise that much 馃槃 i rather have little bit of "whooosh" or no sound at all. Of course in my case it si a completely another world when you came tu Turbo car with open air box and no BoV and you driving the N/A ...all i hear is engine. Here? I heard turbo/sucking and that sututu 馃槃 @Yeetus So in my case it is really no difference to run no BoV or some atmo BoV like GReddy FV2? The car would drive the same and has "the same" little problems? As i wrote above i kinda thinked that atmo BoV with stock MAF would cause more problems...but then again i dont know much about no BoV either :-)  So to avoid stalling i "cant" just put neutral on stop lights like from higher rpm? Or? Yeah iam already looking for ECU :-)  Yes iam at the same side with thar R35 MAF :-)  @Dose Pipe Sutututu Thank you i (my mechanic/tuner) will look into that) Guess iam taking the Nistune at least :-) 
    • Here's the workaround with Nistune I was talking about, just add in more timing on the decel table And play around with the fuel cut & recovery, it's enough to stop it from stalling on a decel  
    • Hi Apex and welcome! 
    • Probably too late to reply to this, but worth a try. It's not calliper flex, the calliper as a whole is moving so it has to be calliper mounting bracket flex.  Calliper mounting brackets are designed to stop the calliper rotating, they don't need to be designed heavy duty to stop the calliper moving in and out.  Whatever it is is not the major cause of poor pedal feel, the outer pistons are moving towards the disc rotor the same amount as the inner pistons are moving away from the disc rotor.  Hence no change in fluid usage, what extra fluid is needed to move the outer pistons is recovered from the inner pistons. For a calliper to move as a whole by far the most common reason is the rotor is not perfectly centred in the calliper.  The first thing I check is that hub face is perfectly clean, bare metal, where the rotor hats contacts it.  Then I check the that rotor is firmly held in place by at least 3 wheel nuts (or equivalent). If all of the above are confirmed to be in perfect alignment then I would check the piston sizes and ensure that the 3 inner pistons and 3 outer pistons have matching diameters (eg; 28/32/36mm).  I have seen a no name 4 spot calliper that had 1 of the 4 pistons a different diameter. Maybe I missed it, are both the callipers exhibiting the same problem? I would remove the transfer pipe and inspect it to make sure that there are no restrictions. Maybe you already have but if not I would return them with the video and have them confirm all of the above.   Hope that helps Cheers Gary    
  • Create New...