Jump to content
SAU Community

Aiming For 280 Rwkw

MissTara

By MissTara,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MissTara Enthusiast

MissTara

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I'm thinking of putting an RB25DET into my 180sx. I found one through my work, it's a series 2 engine with 65,00kms. Now to cut straight to the question. My power goal will be 280rwkw basically just want to know what parts would be neeed. Im aware i'll need certain parts, but what i mean is what size injectors, to work with what turbo, cams, ecu ect. Basically a dream list of parts that i can lash out and buy. Now i dont think i'll want to push beyond 280rwkw, so id want the most responsive turbo that can hit that goal, with aid of cams+gears. I have read the RB25 upgrade thread but its hard to get a good idea cause most people buy parts that are cheap and whatever is for sale at the time. if that makes sence, smart tech guru's need only reply please! thankyou for your help.

Tara-

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242499-aiming-for-280-rwkw/
Share on other sites
cuppas Community Regular

cuppas

Posted
Posted

fuel pump haha

are you planning on dropping in the RB ecu with it?

also... is there any special reason for the RB25? wouldnt SR20 swap be easier to undertake and engineer?

im assuming that if you can find an RB through work, you can find a good SR...

MissTara Enthusiast

MissTara

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

if you read my post you would see that i already read the RB25 turbo upgrade thread, how do i know what the person is aiming for even if there dyno graph is 280kw? i asked a simple question. I dont want another SR20. I was asking about the RB25DET. And i work at a mechanical workshop so getting blue plates and what not will not be an issue. Should have just asked on ns.com, just thought the crew here may know a little more about RB25's.. Obviously not.

Also, why would i (drop) the std ecu in with the RB25 if im asking about aftermarket parts? So no, i will not be using the std ecu, most likely get a powerFC.

Edited by MissTara
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted
if you read my post you would see that i already read the RB25 turbo upgrade thread, how do i know what the person is aiming for even if there dyno graph is 280kw? i asked a simple question. I dont want another SR20. I was asking about the RB25DET. And i work at a mechanical workshop so getting blue plates and what not will not be an issue. Should have just asked on ns.com, just thought the crew here may know a little more about RB25's.. Obviously not.

Also, why would i (drop) the std ecu in with the RB25 if im asking about aftermarket parts? So no, i will not be using the std ecu, most likely get a powerFC.

ok byebye then.

OBVIOUSLY its too hard to read up on what other people have done or reccomend

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
i don't know how you managed to give such a strait out answer, must have been hard! ha! anyway, thanks.

Im going for similar power except im going for 300-350rwkw, only real difference for you is smaller turbo and injectors.

You could also go a walbro 255 fuel pump, its cheaper but i have heard mixed stories about them so im sticking with the ol faithfull 040.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted (edited)

280 rwkw is a tricky figure. Is there a reason why you have selected 280 rwkw as opposed to 250rwkw or 300 rwkw?

The reason I ask is while it is definitely possible to make more than 250 rwkw on a stock motor (I've done it as have numerous other forum members), I would not want to do it for an extended period of time on a stock motor for reliability purposes.

280rwkw is tricky because it is more than I'd be comfortable running on the stock motor and probably not quite enough to justify building a motor. E.g. if I was going to build a motor, I'd whack a slightly bigger turbo on and aim for 300+.

If you tune the car to run on E85 (high octane), you should be able to get 280 rwkw using a highflow rb25 turbo with the larger OP6 rear housing from the VG30 turbo.

A car that I helped build managed more than 280 rwkw with the highflow I mentioned using tolulene added to standard 98 BP ultimate. E85 should be able to produce even more power.

Edited by MANWHORE
W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

cams for 280? there are many people getting 300 with stock cams, maybe add adjustable cam gears though.

Clutch will be needed, tyres are optional after all she did say she was going to drift it :P and of course suspension will be part of the drift set up, not a part required to get 280rwkw which is purely the question i answered thats why i left out clutch (and i didnt think of it at the time).

engo Rising Star

engo

Posted
Posted

hks gtr-s

3 1/2 zaust high flow cats

550cc injectors

044 fuel pump

exedy brass/cusion button clutch

front mount (with nice silicon joins and heavy duty clamps)

ebc (greddy profec b spec II)

microtech ECU :) (people will dispute this, but no BOV and your dosing)

maybe chuck an oil coiler around there some where

suspension (tein or HSD coilovers)

diff

and that 180sx will skate like its on ice :) :)

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

280rwkw is easily achievable on an SR20, why on earth would you want to put an RB25 in there other than to make your car nose heavy and for bragging rights? Retaining an alloy SR20 block as opposed to a cast iron RB25 block is worth the extra power you'll have to make to compensate for the added weight.

Seriously, save the time and money you'd waste on shoehorning an RB25DET in and make a bulletproof SR20DET.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted (edited)

im no race car expert but im guessing with the extra weight over the nose it would also make it understeer which is definitely not some thing you want in a drift car.

Edited by W0rp3D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...