Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there,

I'm thinking about getting a R32 skyline and put my RB30 that's being built into it rather than keeping my 180sx, as i want more even weight ratios.

But i was looking at www.imports.motortraders.net after i read some where that 1989 to 1991 skylines are lighter than the other ones.

May 1989 to 1991

Weight 1260kg

August 1991 to 1992

Weight 1320kg

So i was thinking;

What did they do to make it heaver?

Is there a way to make the newer models lighter?

If not would it be better to get a later model skyline as it would have better weight distribution up front with the RB30 and RB25 gearbox in it?

Thanks,

Andrew.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242524-r32-choices-and-weight/
Share on other sites

From what ive read, the series 2 r32 (1991-1993) had factory side intrusion bars installed into the doors.

Any series 1 r32 imported into australia, gets the bars fitted in during compliance, so in the end there is no weight differences.

The series 2 has different steering wheel design, different fabric, different colour dash fascia and different plastic interior (bumpy instead of smooth).

Plus other small little bits, but all these changes wouldnt affect greatly the overall weight of the car.

So side intrusion bars added 70kg?

im not sure what else could add weight to the car.

From my understanding, everything is pretty much exactly the same apart from some slight interior changes.

However perhaps someone would be able to shed some more information?

A mate of mine weight his skyline and its around 1250 and his is a 1990 so even when there imported here there still lighter than the newer models with the side intrusion bars.

So is it just the complete car that weights it because the way the chassis is made or is something added :S

Would it be better to go the older one then, as its lighter over the newer ones?

i have massive sub box and 2 amps = 60kg

full tank petrol waht = 60kg

2b25det and box + 100kg?

25 l of old oil going to dump = 25 kg?

my fat ass = 110 kg

gtr wing lol = 10 kgbut yeah how accurate is dump weigh bridges

and u have coolent and oil and fuel to add on to your dry weight

and i have 18's and gtt breaks got to be some more weight there

cooler etc?

No one knows why the new ones are heavier?

Or if some one has weighed there newer R32 to see if its true?

I don't mean to sound rude, but no one will be replying to this thread because it is completely useless! You're only talking about a matter of 60kg. I work for a manufacturer that updates each model constantly and has a face lift half way through a particular models run (new model every 7years so facelift usually after 4 years to improve the car and boost sales again). This is not a new concept and I'm struggling to understand why you cannot grasp it. A control unit can be superseeded up to 6 times in only one year. each time the supplier, casing, hardware, software (weight) can change with each item.

Your answer is simple but very long and boring = different composition of plastics, more sound deadening, different wiring looms, chassis strengthening down to the grade of metal used to make the car itself.

All these thing could easily make up 60kg.

Why do you care anyway? If you're going to put an RB30 in anyway, even a mildly warmed over example is going to pull a 32 along with ease. +there are many roads to travel to lighten a car if that is what you are concerned about.

(As said above) 48 + 62 = 110 and there is no way on earth that a silvia has a wieght distribution biased towards the rear! A S8 RX7 is one of the best weight distibuted cars to come from japan at 51/49%. why do you think all the serious time attack cars have the engine lowered and moved back towards the fire wall in a silvia? Let alone a skyline, which is heavily front weight biased due to cast blocks etc.

If you are trying to figure out which model to buy for your build than do some research on something a bit more poignant like which one will the RB30 slip into easier? With out ever looking into that myself, I would imagine a 1993 version that has or had an rb25de in it so all you need to do is swap the bottom end, fit the turbo gear and remap the standard ecu. Obviously it won't be that straight forward but it will go a long way to making things a lot easier.

Rant over :huh:

  • 3 years later...

i know this thread is f**ken old as, But if you (ellie) where not meaning to be rude then why the f**k talk down to the fella asking the question in the first place?, clearly he was curious and wanted some insight, just becuase you work in the field and "know it all" doesnt mean other people know and understand what happens and why. So to a person who doesnt know and wanted some insight be a lot f**king nicer you repugnant f**k!

i know this thread is f**ken old as, But if you (ellie) where not meaning to be rude then why the f**k talk down to the fella asking the question in the first place?, clearly he was curious and wanted some insight, just becuase you work in the field and "know it all" doesnt mean other people know and understand what happens and why. So to a person who doesnt know and wanted some insight be a lot f**king nicer you repugnant f**k!

And the user was last active:

Last Active Aug 14 2010

So the chance of you seeing the somewhat pointless post/bump/whatever... Are highly unlikely. No need to post that, and certainly no need to swear your knackers off either. It's long since dead, next time leave it that way.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...