Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Short answer: yes

Do a search and you'll see it's been covered. a 2.5" mandrel bend exhaust is going to be the best option for an N/A Skyline. If the exhaust is too large in diameter, you lose volumetric efficiency (commonly mislabelled as backpressure). Basically the exhaust gasses aren't filling up the space efficiently. You will have more top end power, but you will lose it quite a bit where it matters day to day.

what do u mean by top end power?

Have you noticed how, with a stock exhaust, the engine feels strong and the revs climb well at low to medium positions on the tacho but it really feels strained as the engine revs continue to go higher? A free flowing exhaust will make the engine more willing to rev up top, as a restriction is removed.

and wot u mean day-to-day..

Have you noticed how you hardly ever rev the engine out to redline every time you go for a drive (I hope)?

Edited by scathing
I am an aggressive driver... thank you. 3inch it is =D

The problem is that all that extra revviness up top is replaced with sluggishness down the bottom, for the reasons given above. So if you can keep it high in the rev range you should be OK, but let the revs drop and it'll run worse.

In the end, a car with a wider spread of torque will probably be quicker than a car with a narrow powerband. Just look a Hondas :)

I haven't looked into RB25DEs specifically, but if everyone is saying that a 2.5" is the best exhaust to get good gains across the entire rev range then, seriously, that's what I'd be doing.

Ive got a 3inch at the moment, and its true, if your hitting it hard on the motorway, then your gonna have to keep it on high revs ( within the speed limit ).

And the noise it makes is alright, but will get very very very annoying if your driving home from the city after a good night out and you just want to sleep and all you can hear is that big ass exhaust.

Trust me, unless your planning to do a turbo conversion, then go with the 2.5 .. sounds awesome and more evenly distributed power gains i guess.

MRXTCZ

in before the lock....and cant we have some kind of a max new thread rule for new members?

edit: its great you want to learn more about how cars and performance modifications work, but lots of the questions you are asking have been answered time and time agian.

if you cant find the answer by searching the forum, (sometimes it can be hard to find old topics), then ask your question.

I know that a skyline related question pops into my head 3-4 times a day, and 9 times outa 10, ill use a few different search term and find someone else who has asked the same thing.

if u still cant workout a definate answer then post up a topic, by all means

Edited by Kranker

How Much Power Do I Lose If I Get A 3" Catback Exhaust???

well your answer to conclude is if you are aggressive get your 3"

if not so get a 2.5"

just drive everywhere in 4000rpm burning everyones petrol :P

i notice that alot of people ask this same question, dont know if this has been answered in another thread, but how much power is gained with a 3" instead of a 2.5" or 2"?

My understanding with exhaust, is limited at best, but dont they really just free up what power the engine has and is loosing due to breathing problems? I understand the compression and all of that, how a N/A will build up less emission than a turbo at a faster pace, hence the requirement for a bigger system. Am i on the ball or should i go do another wikipedia search? :)

Mitch

the reason a lot of people ask the same question is because they don't really understand the physics behind exhaust systems.

bigger is better if you are in the high rpm applications (i.e. dyno) as the engine is expelling a lot of exhaust gases, the volumetric efficiency is high which improves the flow properties of your system. however at low rpm applications (i.e. street driving) the engine isn't expelling nearly as much exhaust gases, the volumetric efficiency in a large exhaust is low and thus the car will feel 'gutless'.

the issue i see with that is, a lot of people use the dyno as a power indicator. the reading is the highest output power at a reasonably high rpm. so of course a large exhaust is going to be seen as an improvement.

too small of an exhaust and it creates a restriction. your engine is expelling more exhaust gas faster than you can get rid of; this creates backpressure, where the exhaust gases go back towards the engine rather than out.

the perfect exhaust is a variable one, which adjusts according to the amount of gases being expelled. this would be used to create the most optimum scavenging effect which is not easy and most probably expensive.

a lot of RB25DE owners have tried 3" exhausts and most have found them to be unsuited for their regular street driven cars. However Cara has reported an improvement with a 3" system, this may be in part due to her motorsport commitments, ecu and nitrous. Not something everyone has.

I personally use a 2.5" exhaust and do a fair amount of motorsport activities which involve full use of the entire rpm range. I would not go any larger unless I started making significantly more power as I would be sacrificing driveability.

here's a simplification.

air/fuel in ----> engine ----> exhaust out

if you are putting more air/fuel in, then you will need to take more exhaust gases out. it's a balance and you would really need to do both ends to maximise the benefits.

in saying that stock exhausts are a little restrictive from factory due to emission laws. so going a little bigger will improve the efficiency, but going too big then you start to lose that efficiency again.

that's the final say. from now on i will close all 3" exhaust threads without any notification.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...