Gtrrrrr

[donkey]

ok help

where do i start, R33GTR had; power FC, pods, exhaust, camgears....great fun, loose traction a bit, nice low down power

wanted more power, now im running; big 115 FMIC, LINK G4 no AFM's, 770, profect b, custom dumps, nismo pump, and one of the most talked about subject 2860-5's, everything new.

320awkw, tuned for torque, 7200 RPM limit, 18lbs.

got the car back and really miss my low down power. i realise these turbos a more for mid-upper top end power now, but i didnt think they would be this laggy, i think now i should have gone for the -7's? dam

questions; turbos are making the 'cho cho noise' the whole time, not on deaceleration, or holding throttle, like my old ones(standard) did, but now when accelerating, sounds like they are fighting each other, irratating.

engine light on, on full boost

ticking noise from turbos when boost starts to come on (internal wastegates?)

i know these turbos are for around 350-400AWKW, but i dont want to crank the boost, destroy the engine but the car feels so lifeless, will uping boost give me a lil more low down power? or go to the -7's?

good news which i will post in gearbox seaction, HKS twin plate, light weight flywheel, real easy to use, no stalling easy as!

when i started these mods about 1 year ago didnt know anything about modding these cars, so went on my mechanics advice, so please no lectures

my mechanic is 550km away so any help would be great on the noises

cheers

[Johnny]

Thats really strange; I would have said your clutch was slipping but having read you got a twin plate.....

sounds like the engine isnt using the boost so the intake system is pressurising like if you were closing the throttlebody. Might indicate a blockage; maybe oil in the intercooler, badly dialed in intake cam gear??

[Bumblebee]

when twins start going larger they tend to surge on each other on partial throttle openings...

didnt think the -5's would do it though...

Edited November 6, 2008 by Bumblebee

[CSNet]

Turbo Shuffle... never heard of the 5's doing it TBH. Engine light with FC is the knock levels yeah?

A good tuner should be able to minimize shuffle etc...

[PM-R33]

engine light on, on full boost

Get that checked ASAP unless you want an engine rebuild soon.

[PHA71L]

that means its pinging.... you are hitting a unsafe knock level on the power fc thats why the engine light is on get it tuned asap!!!!!

[Johnny]

Whats the default setting on the power fc for knock and engine light; was it 60?

bu who knows how high its going

[donkey]

hey there, i had a power fc, now a LINK G4, my mechanic said the LINKG4 overrides the engine check light? but the turbo shuffle, shouldnt be shuffling when spooling up? correct? heeeeeeeellllllllllllllp

[donkey]

ok help

where do i start, R33GTR had; power FC, pods, exhaust, camgears....great fun, loose traction a bit, nice low down power

wanted more power, now im running; big 115 FMIC, LINK G4 no AFM's, 770, profect b, custom dumps, nismo pump, and one of the most talked about subject 2860-5's, everything new.

320awkw, tuned for torque, 7200 RPM limit, 18lbs.

got the car back and really miss my low down power. i realise these turbos a more for mid-upper top end power now, but i didnt think they would be this laggy, i think now i should have gone for the -7's? dam

questions; turbos are making the 'cho cho noise' the whole time, not on deaceleration, or holding throttle, like my old ones(standard) did, but now when accelerating, sounds like they are fighting each other, irratating.

engine light on, on full boost

ticking noise from turbos when boost starts to come on (internal wastegates?)

i know these turbos are for around 350-400AWKW, but i dont want to crank the boost, destroy the engine but the car feels so lifeless, will uping boost give me a lil more low down power? or go to the -7's?

good news which i will post in gearbox seaction, HKS twin plate, light weight flywheel, real easy to use, no stalling easy as!

when i started these mods about 1 year ago didnt know anything about modding these cars, so went on my mechanics advice, so please no lectures

my mechanic is 550km away so any help would be great on the noises

cheers

please note i 'had' a power fc, mow a LINK G4

[R31Nismoid]

What BOV's and intake piping setup do you have?

[Bumblebee]

stock bovs n piping r the best way to go... hope u havent changed them at all

[donkey]

hey, i did tell him to leave stock BOV's, but he said they where leaking/not holding pressure? sorry dont no what BOV he put in but said they where holding pressure, piping no not stock, all custom made intake etc

Edited November 7, 2008 by donkey

[R31Nismoid]

Thats likely to be your problem then im afraid.

[donkey]

Thats likely to be your problem then im afraid.

hey would the problem be BOV's, or piping, or both? and does this ruin the turbos, hinder performance? should i get a new stock BOV

thanks for you help

[Bumblebee]

both

ive talked to all the best gtr tuners in our lovely country for my big power app and they all say the same thing.

Stock piping and stock bovs are the best way to go on a gtr... changing the piping will unfortunately increase turbo shuffling.

if u want to minimise it, got back to stock bovs n stock piping.

Ben from RacePace even laughed when i suggested that i wanted to run all hks piping from afms all the way to the plenum... stock is best

[donkey]

both

ive talked to all the best gtr tuners in our lovely country for my big power app and they all say the same thing.

Stock piping and stock bovs are the best way to go on a gtr... changing the piping will unfortunately increase turbo shuffling.

if u want to minimise it, got back to stock bovs n stock piping.

Ben from RacePace even laughed when i suggested that i wanted to run all hks piping from afms all the way to the plenum... stock is best

crap i wanted it all left stock aye, would going back to a stock new GTR BOV help shuffle a bit??????? i think it is onlr running one BOV too? does this sound right?

Edited November 7, 2008 by donkey

[Bumblebee]

going back to stock will help.

ben explained to me that the reason by the stock bovs r the best ones for the job is because they are one of the few bovs that actually stay open under light throttle which apparently help to minimise shuffling

[donkey]

going back to stock will help.

ben explained to me that the reason by the stock bovs r the best ones for the job is because they are one of the few bovs that actually stay open under light throttle which apparently help to minimise shuffling

just reading in the 'search" seaction some peopls saying BOV's arent the main problem, maybe advance the timing?

[Bumblebee]

im just going by what one of the best gtr tuners are saying. thats all

if u wanna take someone else word over his, thats cool

just letting u know what he told me... im running a pair of 2871r's -10's so theyre rather large twins and thats the best way for me to minimise shuffling.

just so know u.. im a mechanic and timing wont do anything to avoid shuffling... its about the turbos producing boost @ different stages.. thats it...

[archie01]

Change your intake setup (post AFM to turbo inlet) and your bov's back to stock and your problem will be fixed.

Have heard of another case just like yours with aftermarket intake kit. Went back to stock and it was all good.