Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car is in prep for serious (semi :thumbsup:) track work..

buying bigger brakes and bigger wheels will be an expensive exercise so before I do it, id like to know whos running standard and what you guys have done for improvements..

My 32 GTR will be pushing 350-400kw :P ..

I've got some new slotted rotors on it, with some new KF750 pads and braided lines (group buy) to go onto it.. The car will be about 100kg lighter then factory which will aid in stopping..

Up here in Townsville the track and hill climb doesn't require huge amounts of braking.. The biggest speed deficit would be 140 down to 80 or so..

Any input?

Edited by Tomek
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/
Share on other sites

My experience with the standard brakes was fairly dismal to say the least.

Car is a 32 GTR, running standard brakes, with air deflectors and 180awkw. The standard rotors just got to hot (only ever did four laps then a cool down) and continually managed to destroy a set of front pads every track day. (they were QFM race pads not sure what type). They are way understized for the weight and speed the car is capable of. So after much debate (the car is purely a dedicated track car, only driven on the roads to and from events) the decision was made to grab some 6spot ap racing calipers and 365mm rotors. Unfortunately i have not yet driven the car on these yet as it has been in the shop being treated to a few nice engine upgrades hoping to pull out 300awkw, so will let you know how it goes.

But please dont skimp on the breaks, they with suspension and tyres are the most important parts to a car. Spend the money if you can, and im sure you will never regreat it especially with the power you are aiming for!

good luck!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/#findComment-4249850
Share on other sites

They are great when put on a 180 sx, thats about it!!

I have the stockers and they just ain't big enough to do the job repeatedly....

I'm looking at getting a 324mm upgrade kit from UAS and keep the same caliper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/#findComment-4249878
Share on other sites

Standard R32 GTR brakes are not realy up to competition standards.

Best used for stock or lightly modded car.

I would aleast try to find a set of Brembo's from the V-Spec R32's or get R33 or R34 ones, if not then start pulling out the $$$ and get some Endless, Project Mu or K-Sport setups.

I would say brakes are one of the most important things to upgrade when doubling the kW's of your engine cuz you go faster, you better stop quicker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/#findComment-4250858
Share on other sites

If the brakes are in good condition and have good pads in them they are perfectly fine. I use my GTR at the track (Barbagallo) and so far have not had any braking issues at all. Brake setup is:

- Standard Calipers all round rebuilt with new seals, pistons inspected and all in good working order

- RDA rotors all round (group buy)

- Project Mu HC+ Pads all round (absolutly awesome pad, 10 laps and no fade. Have Run 2 track days on these and around 10 000 road KM's and still have around 70% pad left if not more).

- Nissmo Braided brake lines all round

- Rebuilt/sleeved brake master cylinder

- Cusco Brake master cylinder stopper

- RBF600 Fluid

Car is a 32 GTR and weighs 1510KG with 3/4 tank fuel and driver in it. Power is around the 300HP ATW mark

Edited by bnr#@
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/#findComment-4250960
Share on other sites

start by trying better pads and fluid and see how it goes. I used to run my R32 GTR with the sumitomo calipers at QR with TRW/Lucas pads and Penrite Sin 600degree fluid and they'd almost cope with 5 laps - you'd get fade towards the end of the 4th lap if you were pushing 10/10ths. QR is reknowned for being hard on brakes though. Better pads would have sorted it, so try the ones bnr#@ recommended. I didn't bother, I'd just run 4 hard laps and use the 5th as an extra cool down lap. You could also try some ducting to the centre of the disc as well. That was going to be my next step, but I sold the car. All pretty cheap stuff and will get you by if the budget is tight.

Next step up from there without spending lots of money is a set of caliper brackets that allow you to fit the larger disc under the sumitomo calipers. Or for a bit more money you could try and find a set of Brembos as someone suggested above. After that, the sky's the limit. They're the options from cheapest upwards. Find the one that suits your budget and amount of track use and how competitive you want to be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/#findComment-4251309
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input fellas..

Im going to get the car on the road first, fit all the goodies I have and go from there. I know it's innetible (spelling) but just want to delay the upgrade. As a full motor/ turbo/ ancillery set-up isn't wallet friendly.

add; Will be running Toyo R888's all round on BNR32 wheels (hoping to go bit larger then 225)

Edited by Tomek
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/#findComment-4252734
Share on other sites

a 225 R888 would be a waste don't you think fellas? Would need more width (therefore more wheels) to actually make use of the car? Or would I be suprised?

Never driven a car with semi slicks..

I know a few of you here have, specially you Baron..

Do I sell stockers in favour of some 33 gtr wheels or do I wrap stockers in 225?

Tomek

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/#findComment-4254459
Share on other sites

For the price you couldn't get a better circuit wheel for an r32 gtr than stock r33 gtr wheels.

Totally agree with that..

More so asking if it's the way to go? or just stick some R888 (225) on the stocker's which are great but not wide enough to accomadate more rubber, like I said never driven with semi slicks before. Have no idea on how sticky they are.. Doubt they would be able to handle 350-400kw thought ... lol.. actually im dreaming :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/#findComment-4255418
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
.....Up here in Townsville the track and hill climb doesn't require huge amounts of braking.. The biggest speed deficit would be 140 down to 80 or so.....

even though you are expecting pretty big power, with short runs like a hill climb (less than 10 stops per run), standard brakes should be fine. just put in good pads (not requiring too much temp or it wont stop for the first, cold, corner), braided lines and maybe 2 piece standard size rotors for ease of maintenance.

at least try them before you change them, in good condition you will be surprised how good the standard brakes are.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/#findComment-4276212
Share on other sites

even though you are expecting pretty big power, with short runs like a hill climb (less than 10 stops per run), standard brakes should be fine. just put in good pads (not requiring too much temp or it wont stop for the first, cold, corner), braided lines and maybe 2 piece standard size rotors for ease of maintenance.

at least try them before you change them, in good condition you will be surprised how good the standard brakes are.

Thanks for the input Duncan.

Leech PM sent :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/#findComment-4276447
Share on other sites

I just thought i would just post this pic up to show people what happens to 32GTR cross drilled rotors when you take them to the track. Ive now upgraded to RDA cross drilled all round but yet to take it back to Mallala.

post-51334-1227276371_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243934-32-gtr-brakes/#findComment-4276460
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...