Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

R33 1996 Skyline GTS Coupe NON TURBO

RB25DE

Full respray in and out including engine bay in VE Purple

Heavy Duty Clutch

Short Shifter

Blue Led Dials

Clear Tail lights

Custom Exhuast

Air Filter

Air Box

Coilovers

Diamond Vision Globes

Dynamat in Doors

Dvd Player

17 inch Wheels with Bridgestone tyres

In Great Condition, Paint is Only 3 Months Old

86500 Kms

5 Speed Manual

June 2009 Rego

Interior is Immac

Only Probs with the car are

The Air flow meter needs to be replaced, has a weird idle problem, sometimes need to rev the car a bit, just does it on idle sometimes

Small Scratch on Drivers door

Small Dent/Crease on bootlid

Sometimes has a knocking sound from inside the dash, have been told this is a common skyline problem, doesnt affect anything

Passnger airbag cover has warped from the sun slighty, nothing major

$12000 ONO needs to go

Contact Mario on 0430 129 882

post-24610-1226206030_thumb.jpg

post-24610-1226206048_thumb.jpg

post-24610-1226206083_thumb.jpg

post-24610-1226206124_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243950-r33-gts-non-turbo-12k-ono/
Share on other sites

knockin neva heard a skyline doin that u should its not motor could have oil pressure problems could explain not idlen properly to gl wit sale anyway like those white rims on that colour but could want to lower price is still na...

the knocking comes from inside the dash, air con or heater box....nothing to do with the motor

everything has been check by my mechanic and auto electrician and the afm is faulty, oil pressure is fine

and as for 12000 it cleary does say ONO correct?

PLEASE READ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I HAVE REPLACED THE AIR FLOW METER, CAR NOW RUNS LIKE A DREAM, NO PROBLEMS AT ALL, ALSO HAD THE MECHANIC DOUBLE CHECK OVER IT AGAIN.....

11K MUST GOOOOOO

10500 NO COILOVERS......

knockin neva heard a skyline doin that u should its not motor could have oil pressure problems could explain not idlen properly to gl wit sale anyway like those white rims on that colour but could want to lower price is still na...

My car knocks on start up too, it's nothing. It's like the air con is trying to open a vent (say feet) that's already open, and the gears just click over for a few seconds.

My car knocks on start up too, it's nothing. It's like the air con is trying to open a vent (say feet) that's already open, and the gears just click over for a few seconds.

thanks man

thats pretty much on the ball there

Edited by Cro_boy_Mario

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...