Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

geez thats fantastic!! must be that famous melbourne climate that does it for you :P

Maybe.

Although I did fill up on Tuesday & am on par (combining kms travelled & on-screen est. distance till empty) to reach the magical 700kms this time.

Don't know if it because of the dry air (Sydney's air is much more humid than Melbourne's) or just a really good batch of fuel (different servo), but I ain't complaining!

Yep with the hot summer months ahead, performance will definitely be sacrificed through heat sink when pushing hard......hence why I have plan B (Intercooler upgrade!!!), will be testing how the Greddy Intercooler kit performs over standard.

TT

Ooooh, glittery prizes.

Is that the Spec R HG or is it the Spec V?

Where from? How much?

Been looking at them for a while, but was also looking at ARC 'cooler (is that my wallet shrieking in fear?).

Maybe.

Although I did fill up on Tuesday & am on par (combining kms travelled & on-screen est. distance till empty) to reach the magical 700kms this time.

Don't know if it because of the dry air (Sydney's air is much more humid than Melbourne's) or just a really good batch of fuel (different servo), but I ain't complaining!

Ooooh, glittery prizes.

Is that the Spec R HG or is it the Spec V?

Where from? How much?

Been looking at them for a while, but was also looking at ARC 'cooler (is that my wallet shrieking in fear?).

Its a spec-V, I purchased it from one of the Forum members for $1K, they are worth around $1500 or more with the way the dollar is now.

Guys has anyone purchased flares for the AXIS, my left rear quater was damged in transit, with a few scratches...I can pobably get it repaired but curious to find out what they're worth and if anyone has had the joy of trying to source these. They are defintely listed on the parts catalogue with Nissan.....but they still cant confirm any pricing for me :yucky:

Its a spec-V, I purchased it from one of the Forum members for $1K, they are worth around $1500 or more with the way the dollar is now.

Guys has anyone purchased flares for the AXIS, my left rear quater was damged in transit, with a few scratches...I can pobably get it repaired but curious to find out what they're worth and if anyone has had the joy of trying to source these. They are defintely listed on the parts catalogue with Nissan.....but they still cant confirm any pricing for me :yucky:

The ARX front ones are $330 inc GST.

Edited by andy65b
Its a spec-V, I purchased it from one of the Forum members for $1K, they are worth around $1500 or more with the way the dollar is now.

Guys has anyone purchased flares for the AXIS, my left rear quater was damged in transit, with a few scratches...I can pobably get it repaired but curious to find out what they're worth and if anyone has had the joy of trying to source these. They are defintely listed on the parts catalogue with Nissan.....but they still cant confirm any pricing for me :yucky:

What is the part number?

If the dealership you went to is taking their time, ask another one.

Its a spec-V, I purchased it from one of the Forum members for $1K, they are worth around $1500 or more with the way the dollar is now.

Guys has anyone purchased flares for the AXIS, my left rear quater was damged in transit, with a few scratches...I can pobably get it repaired but curious to find out what they're worth and if anyone has had the joy of trying to source these. They are defintely listed on the parts catalogue with Nissan.....but they still cant confirm any pricing for me :yucky:

Hold up with the flares and all Nissan genuine parts for the M35....Nissan bends you over with there prices....I am trying to source a cheeper way of getting parts for the M35's......I have already got parts with the trade discount....just waiting for someone to get back to me on wether they can do it better than that again.....watch this space!

Hold up with the flares and all Nissan genuine parts for the M35....Nissan bends you over with there prices....I am trying to source a cheeper way of getting parts for the M35's......I have already got parts with the trade discount....just waiting for someone to get back to me on wether they can do it better than that again.....watch this space!

Watching.

Intently.

Hold up with the flares and all Nissan genuine parts for the M35....Nissan bends you over with there prices....I am trying to source a cheeper way of getting parts for the M35's......I have already got parts with the trade discount....just waiting for someone to get back to me on wether they can do it better than that again.....watch this space!

Hey Jetwreck, are the flares all the same ARX. AXIS????? I've been told the AXIS flares come painted as they only came out in BLK, White & Silver......I'm also waiting on pricing ex-Japan as no one can give me a straight answer locally.

Just got the car back 2nite after decoding ECU, once the tuner gets his head around all the algorithms....we'll be on the dyno mapping a New Brain :P

I will be very impressed if we can reach our target of 200rwkw, with mapping & turbo back exhaust....also keen to see the hike in torque over standard.

Keep you posted on the Bang for your Bucks :banana:

Edited by NRVOUS
Just got the car back 2nite after decoding ECU, once the tuner gets his head around all the algorithms....we'll be on the dyno mapping a New Brain ;)

I will be very impressed if we can reach our target of 200rwkw, with mapping & turbo back exhaust....also keen to see the hike in torque over standard.

Keep you posted on the Bang for your Bucks :)

Yes will be very keen to see results and $$$$$ v's KW gain......

Do you know what yours pumped out on the dyno stock.... did i read right rwkw, are you not going awkw, or am I spastic and missed a post etc...

Jules

Edited by Paramour
Yes will be very keen to see results and $$$$$ v's KW gain......

Do you know what yours pumped out on the dyno stock.... did i read right rwkw, are you not going awkw, or am I spastic and missed a post etc...

Jules

Sorry Jules, typo ...will be awkw, yep will be looking to see what the max power will be without stuffing around with injectors, turbos etc...... I dont have any stock Power runs yet as once he has everything he needs we'll go through the car methodically & I'll have stock exhaust first, then my turbo dump with Fujistubo catback etc.... This will be painful & tedious I know....but the guy is flat out & time is major factor here for both parties, not mention he has an array of regular Porsche customer who are overdemanding weekend warriors

Guys one very important thing to note here is that, having had tuned and modified other cars in the past, I consider a dyno a fine tuning instrument & dont get too caught up in the figures as long as the tuner takes their time and maps the car correctly to the best of their ability WITHOUT popping its Cherry.

There are alot of dyno junkies out there who chase every last kW and believe me figures can vary dramatically from workshop to worshop.

I have heard of a stock ARX making approx 150kw at all 4 wheels, does anyone else out there care to share their experience....once I have figures will post before & after Dyno results. Unfortunately family commitments rule my SAT so it would be great to have some M35 power run figures posted if anyone is going to the Unique Autosports dyno day.

Cheers

TT

Sorry Jules, typo ...will be awkw, yep will be looking to see what the max power will be without stuffing around with injectors, turbos etc...... I dont have any stock Power runs yet as once he has everything he needs we'll go through the car methodically & I'll have stock exhaust first, then my turbo dump with Fujistubo catback etc.... This will be painful & tedious I know....but the guy is flat out & time is major factor here for both parties, not mention he has an array of regular Porsche customer who are overdemanding weekend warriors

Guys one very important thing to note here is that, having had tuned and modified other cars in the past, I consider a dyno a fine tuning instrument & dont get too caught up in the figures as long as the tuner takes their time and maps the car correctly to the best of their ability WITHOUT popping its Cherry.

There are alot of dyno junkies out there who chase every last kW and believe me figures can vary dramatically from workshop to worshop.

I have heard of a stock ARX making approx 150kw at all 4 wheels, does anyone else out there care to share their experience....once I have figures will post before & after Dyno results. Unfortunately family commitments rule my SAT so it would be great to have some M35 power run figures posted if anyone is going to the Unique Autosports dyno day.

Cheers

TT

I may be up there this afternoon so will see how we go.

I like the sound of what you are doing. After I do the exhaust I will be just looking to get the tuning just right.

Cheers

Andy

can you also let us know what dyno it was done on and what mode the dyno was in when the run was performed.

150awkw seems a little high. those figures may have been 'adjusted'

Dood what would be the general rule of thumb for drive train loss on a dyno???? 25-30%..., if a car is puching out 206KW at the flywheels standard taking a 25-30% loss would equate to 154- 144KW, so I dont see how the figures would be adjusted, I will ask the question regarding what mode the dyno was in, generally most power runs are done in shoot out mode...I could be wrong.

Once we have the car schedules on the rollers same day, same weather conditions & same dyno modes I will be able to document before & after figures with as little artifact as posible....but would love to hear if anyone attended the dyno day, or have any power run figures to document.

Here's a question to stir the Stagea souls.....has anyone compared a standard NEO RB25 to a VQ25DET on the same rollers....both cars produce 206KW but different Torque curves.....

I have heard of a stock ARX making approx 150kw at all 4 wheels, does anyone else out there care to share their experience....once I have figures will post before & after Dyno results.

Sure, when my turbo was reborn, the car went back on the dyno with the original exhaust.

It was a cool night and boost was limited to 10psi.

Result 140awkw.

Can't remember at what rpm and the machine refused to print the readout.

Only went by the Plasma display.

Looking forward to seeing the numbers with the new exhaust (& ECU).

Sure, when my turbo was reborn, the car went back on the dyno with the original exhaust.

It was a cool night and boost was limited to 10psi.

Result 140awkw.

Can't remember at what rpm and the machine refused to print the readout.

Only went by the Plasma display.

Looking forward to seeing the numbers with the new exhaust (& ECU).

So if you are getting 140awkw with the 10psi........the stock version may be similar or higher as the the stock turbo boosts upto 15psi at max.

and also you get more drivetrain loss from an auto gearbox too. a manual i could understand.

plus we are talking 4 weeks not 2.

so what were the figures last night of some stageas??

Drive train loss for the WGNC34 AWD auto was estimated by SK at 70KW. This is a number, not a percentage - it will be AWKW + 70 = approx flywheel kw.
Drive train loss for the WGNC34 AWD auto was estimated by SK at 70KW. This is a number, not a percentage - it will be AWKW + 70 = approx flywheel kw.

So your looking at 206kw-70kw = 136kw at all four wheels estimated for a WGNC34????

Just ordered RDA slotted rotors all round & yes as one of our fellow members posted earlier both front & rear rotors are the same as 350Z touring with pissy little pads on the rear.

Now I know some you are anti Bendix ultimates & others have had good expereinces ....and remebmer the stock brakes are not as bad as some of you make out!

But can anyone provide a comparison.... value for money from standard pads to any of the aftermarkets that have been mentioned.

How much are Hawks front & rear??? are they better or worse than Ultimates.....

So your looking at 206kw-70kw = 136kw at all four wheels estimated for a WGNC34????

Just ordered RDA slotted rotors all round & yes as one of our fellow members posted earlier both front & rear rotors are the same as 350Z touring with pissy little pads on the rear.

Now I know some you are anti Bendix ultimates & others have had good expereinces ....and remebmer the stock brakes are not as bad as some of you make out!

But can anyone provide a comparison.... value for money from standard pads to any of the aftermarkets that have been mentioned.

How much are Hawks front & rear??? are they better or worse than Ultimates.....

I can't compare the Hawk's (HPS) to anything other than stock brakes but they are definatley better than stock and lots less dust. I managed to source mine over the net and bought when the exchange rates were better. Managed to get 2 x fronts and 1 x rear for $270 Aust, I noticed now that the fronts are $97 US before freight and then the exchange rate, ouch.

I have to get some new pads for the r32 GTR calipers that are about to go on. Any suggestions?

Cheers

Andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...