Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Lately my passenger window has gotten tempremental. Sometimes it just doesn't work. The switch still click's, but the window just won't go down :blink:

Hasn't anyone else had this problem? Is it common? and more importantly, does anyone know how to fix it?

PS, it's a 350gt coupe

Edited by Blitz_boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244340-electric-window-problems/
Share on other sites

reading from the american forums, it is a very common problem on the V35 / G35 cars

the window motor needs to be replaced. if you go to nissan and order one they will slug you one hefty bill (around $700)

i have seen them for sale on ebay oem genuine parts for much cheaper. i dont know if it is a problem with left / right had side as in america everything is switched?

-mark

Thanks for that blistc. I thought it was the motor as i checked all the connection to it with the multimeter and it is receiving the signal. I'll have to get my hands on a new motor.

The thing is, if I do get it to open it will continue to work properly as long as I don't fully close it. Like I've been worried that if I open it it won't close, but that never happens. Does that still sound like it's the motor then?

replace it BEFORE it quits. thye drop when you open/close the door so if it breaks then you will have a small gap to deal with.

the USDM window bits are the same. its the locks that are different.

how much are they

the reason being, is that we could probably save $$$ on shipping, and being such a common problem i am a bit worried it might happen to me.

with your car only doing 22,000 kms and the motors failing, im worried because ive done double that amount of kms, but havent experienced that problem yet. and i put my windows down every time i get in the car

-mark

Edited by BLISTC
how much are they

the reason being, is that we could probably save $$$ on shipping, and being such a common problem i am a bit worried it might happen to me.

with your car only doing 22,000 kms and the motors failing, im worried because ive done double that amount of kms, but havent experienced that problem yet. and i put my windows down every time i get in the car

-mark

My Passenger side has just stated doing exactly the same thing. very temperamental! interested to know how much it is for a new motor. My car is still under warranty, and the window motor is on the list of defects that the warranty covers..so i might have to sit tight till it happens. My car has just clocked 40k too

Found this on the net, will give it a shot tomorrow

We started having a problem with the driver side window on our 2004 G35 Coupe. It would roll down, but then wouldn't come back up unless you slammed the door a time or two. Went to the forums and saw that quite a few people have had the same problem. Noticed one in particular that said that you should regrease the regulator before the motor burned out. Well, when I finally went to fix ours, the motor appeared to be shot. It no longer would even go down. I took it apart with the idea of replacing the motor ($282) and possibly the regulator ($95). Before I did that, I took the motor off and hooked it up to a 12 volt power source. There are 6 pins in the connector, two on one side and four on the other. I applied 12 volts across the two on the one side, and the motor turned! Switching the leads, it turned the way. I put it back in the regulator and worked it up and down, no problem. No problem, at least until I let the regulator go all the way to one end, which left the cables tight, and the motor a little bound up. The motor would no longer function.

I took the motor off and then took it apart by removing the housing, which is held on by three small screws. I was very surprised at the amount of dirty grease that was present all around the brushes. I cleaned up the brushes and the surface of the commutator and put it back together. I put it in the regulator and let it bind a bit. No problem, it would come alive as soon as I applied voltage. I put it back in the car, remembering to reset the position sensor, as discussed in service bulletin ITB04-033, and now the window is working as it should.

Good work, blitz boy.

I did a very similar thing to a seized motor on a R33 Side Mirror that wouldn't fold in...

It was never going to turn and was locked solid... still works now about 6 years later.

Where did you get a copy of the Service Bulletin and can they all be downloaded?

Motor is shagged!!

should I order 80731-CD00A or 80731-CD001 ?? Is there a difference?

Pretty sure they are the same part. I had the same problem, cleaned the bushes of the motor, worked fine for a couple of months and then the same problem again (had read this on the internet that it was not worth cleaning them, because that is what happens, and sure enough it did). I was fortunate to be in the US on holidays, so bought the replacement from a Nissan Dealer.

Pretty annoying problem for a so-called luxury car, have not had a power window problem in any car for years, but it seems this is pretty common. Having said that though, there are people with older cars on forums that have had no trouble, so it seems to be a common problem, but not universal.

  • 5 months later...
  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you have a Nissan from Japan and model year is from 2016 to 2024, just say you have an Infiniti Q50 4 doors... Why are telling you have an import?
    • It's definitely not firing order. But I think it should also be made clear that the output that gets fired is the one that corresponds to the input that was switched at the ECU. So you could scramble them up totally so that the numbers meant nothing, and so long as you had the inputs and outputs matched up, you'd be fine. The reason I make that point is that blanket statements about what it is supposed to be don't always hold out in a world where there's been 30 years for the wiring to have been stuffed with.
    • Hello, im asking about this guy - coil igniter on rb25det series 1 r33 s1 engine. I need to know if pins on coil side indicate coils itself from 1-6 or it’s firing order so pin nr1 goes to 1st fired spark plug:(1pin-1firing spark, 2pin-5order firing spark, 3-3, 4-6, 5-2, 6-4…)   photo: https://files.fm/f/k9pdug38uq
    • Remove it. Certainly from the hub face. I'm not in love with leaving it on the wheel assembly surface either - but if it is common to do so, then....maybe fair enough. It's not difficult. Just time consuming. For the hub face you just need a large enough block and suitable grades of abrasive paper to get it off flat. The same would be true of the assembly face. Just more time consuming, probably needing a lot more care. It's defo going to be easier just to assemble the wheels as is, seal them up, and check them periodically to see if there's any movement or loosening of the fasteners, than it will be to remove it though.
    • Hello, I got my wheels powder coated and they've powder coated bloody everything the mating surface and hub (even told them not to lol) anyway should I leave it or remove it. (Would be very hard) I've searched a lot and lots of powder coaters don't mask the mating surface but do mask the hub surface. How bad it powder coat on the mating surface or hub? My question is what should I do?
×
×
  • Create New...