Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 100k Service

LOWESTR32

By LOWESTR32,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

JLTS13 Enthusiast

JLTS13

Posted
Posted

off the top of my head l think it is

Spark plugs if still using factory

Timing belt

oil + filter

as every thing else l think is done at 80,000 such as

coolant

brake fluid

air filter

fuel filter

also if you havent done your diff oil and gearbox oil done get that done to. l would also do what ever has been missed in previous services to get services back on track.

Hope that helps

Jezza-gtR Mentor

Jezza-gtR

Posted
Posted

Best bet for the 100k service is to check what nissan recommend for a 34 100k in a workshop manual, workshops and people will do more / less its up to you really.

I personally when I get car a change everything so I know its done :)

__PhaseShiftDown Rising Star

__PhaseShiftDown

Posted
Posted

100k service, I would do the following.

Timing Belt, Idler and tensioner bearing

Aux belt, aircon belt.

Oil Filter

Oil

Fuel Filter

Radiator Flush

Spark Plugs

Gearbox oil

Diff oil

Transfer case oil

Brake pads, if need replacing

Safety check.

I got quoted about $900 for the service? to change the timing belt and spark plugs. Does that sound about right?

Only the timing belt and plugs? Thats a bit too much

For my 32GTR, I bought the service kit from Kudo's Motorsport. Got the timing belt, water pump, idler, tensioner bearing changed, raidator flushed for around $950. The labor was $500 flat. You can change the spark plugs yourself, it ain't that hard dude.

JLTS13 Enthusiast

JLTS13

Posted
Posted
cheers guys!

the guy reckons he has already done 100k service and changed water pump...does that need to be done?

sounds strange to me :P

The water pump dosent need to be done by the books but isnt a bad idea, as it requires the timing belt to be removed to fit a new one. Due to the age of most skylines these days getting your water pump done when the timing belt is done,it could save a bit of money done the road.

ian_and1 Experienced

ian_and1

Posted
Posted
The water pump dosent need to be done by the books but isnt a bad idea, as it requires the timing belt to be removed to fit a new one. Due to the age of most skylines these days getting your water pump done when the timing belt is done,it could save a bit of money done the road.

My car has about 98,XXX on it i got home the other day noticed water coming out from under the engine, water pump craped it self :D so i did the full service belts fluids new water pump, Idler and tensioner bearing and new spark plugs :P there goes a week wages :D

  • 4 weeks later...
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

After your 100,000Km service has been done, TAKE NOTE that according to the R34 OWNER'S MANUAL...

THERE IS A MAJOR SERVICE EVERY 40,000Km

This would/should have been done at 40,000Km and at 80,000Km

MANUAL LEGEND SAYS...

R = Replace

I = Inspect

L = Lubricate

Therefore, at 140,000Km and at 180,000Km involving...

Engine Oil = R (and on turbo engines, every 5,000Km or 6 months whichever is sooner)*

Oil Filter = R*

Drive Belts = I

Engine Anti-freeze coolant (Ethylene glycol based) = R

Cooling System = I

Air cleaner (paper type) = R*

Fuel Lines = I

Fuel Filter = R*

Spark Plugs (Platinum) = every 100,000Km

Heated O2 Sensor (Exhaust Gas Sensor) = I

EVAP Vapour Lines = I

Timing Belt = every 100,000Km

Brake, Clutch & Auto Trans Fluid (for level and leaks) = I*

Brake Fluid = R*

Brake Booster Vacuum Hoses, Connections and Check Valve = I

Power Steering Fluid and Lines (for level and leaks) = I

Brake, Clutch & Exhaust Systems = I

Manual Trans Gear Oil (for level and leaks) = I

Diff Gear Oil (for level and leaks) = I*

Limited Slip Diff Gear Oil (for level and leaks) = R*

Transfer Fluid (for level and leaks) = R*

Steering Gear & Linkage, Axle & Susp'n Parts, Propellor Shafts & Drive Shafts = I*

Wheel Alignment & Rotation & Balancing = I

Brake Pads, Rotors & Other Components = I*

Locks, Hinges & Boot Latch = L*

Seat Belts, Buckles, Retractors,Anchors & Adjustors = I

Foot Brake, Parking Brake, & Clutch (for free play, stroke & operation) = I

Ventilation Air Filter = R*

Note:- Anything that has a '*' next to it will need attention more often under harsher operating conditions.

Hope this helps,

Tez

CARSICK Rising Star

CARSICK

Posted
Posted
After your 100,000Km service has been done, TAKE NOTE that according to the R34 OWNER'S MANUAL...

THERE IS A MAJOR SERVICE EVERY 40,000Km

This would/should have been done at 40,000Km and at 80,000Km

MANUAL LEGEND SAYS...

R = Replace

I = Inspect

L = Lubricate

Therefore, at 140,000Km and at 180,000Km involving...

Engine Oil = R (and on turbo engines, every 5,000Km or 6 months whichever is sooner)*

Oil Filter = R*

Drive Belts = I

Engine Anti-freeze coolant (Ethylene glycol based) = R

Cooling System = I

Air cleaner (paper type) = R*

Fuel Lines = I

Fuel Filter = R*

Spark Plugs (Platinum) = every 100,000Km

Heated O2 Sensor (Exhaust Gas Sensor) = I

EVAP Vapour Lines = I

Timing Belt = every 100,000Km

Brake, Clutch & Auto Trans Fluid (for level and leaks) = I*

Brake Fluid = R*

Brake Booster Vacuum Hoses, Connections and Check Valve = I

Power Steering Fluid and Lines (for level and leaks) = I

Brake, Clutch & Exhaust Systems = I

Manual Trans Gear Oil (for level and leaks) = I

Diff Gear Oil (for level and leaks) = I*

Limited Slip Diff Gear Oil (for level and leaks) = R*

Transfer Fluid (for level and leaks) = R*

Steering Gear & Linkage, Axle & Susp'n Parts, Propellor Shafts & Drive Shafts = I*

Wheel Alignment & Rotation & Balancing = I

Brake Pads, Rotors & Other Components = I*

Locks, Hinges & Boot Latch = L*

Seat Belts, Buckles, Retractors,Anchors & Adjustors = I

Foot Brake, Parking Brake, & Clutch (for free play, stroke & operation) = I

Ventilation Air Filter = R*

Note:- Anything that has a '*' next to it will need attention more often under harsher operating conditions.

Hope this helps,

Tez

EVEN ON MY R33 OR SOMEONE ELSE'S R32, THIS ENGLISH TRANSLATION IS WORTHWHILE DOWNLOADING/COPYING !

  • 4 weeks later...
Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've heard in a few different places now people recommending to get the idler and tensioner bearings replaced. What are these 2 bearings used for and do they really need replacing ? how much to replace them on an R34 GTT approx. ?

I've had my 100k (even though odo is still < 70k but who can trust that..) service already with all the belts incl TB changed as well as oils, water pump etc but never had the bearings touched.

Edited by Delta Force

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • MBS206
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By MBS206 · Posted

      When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

    • Rezz
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Rezz · Posted

      Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...