Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i pm'd Beer_Baron and he said he will discuss with the other admins about our own section and get back to me, hopefully we get it.

and just for everyone elses reference, the oil filter code is Z436

i put almost 5 litres of oil in and i will check later if its full or needs more/less.

here you go Kristian,

the fronts have been in for a few days and i just put the rears in so they should settle a bit. will be ok till i get coilovers. the handling is heaps better now, the shocks look to be in excellent condition

also got my tinted crystal side indicators so will put them in sometime soon.

post-49731-1242803985_thumb.jpg

post-49731-1242804130_thumb.jpg

post-49731-1242804394_thumb.jpg

my parts car has arrived. Virtually no damage at all. Definately no front or rear accident evidence like i thought it would have.

My plans are to have this car's engine and transmission swapped into my black beast. Then the black's engine will be put into this car without a gearbox.

My plans are to then sell it as a complyable car for dirt cheap with no gearbox. I have access to a 300zx so for 10K you could have both cars and throw the 5 speed into it and have the worlds 1st manual cedric for under 15K total.

Anyone want a cedric and a 300zx?

Ben

0417 366 372

post-50241-1242957339_thumb.jpg

post-50241-1242957359_thumb.jpg

post-50241-1242957376_thumb.jpg

post-50241-1242957396_thumb.jpg

post-50241-1242957412_thumb.jpg

"Iron Chef Imports - where even the crap cars they buy are half decent" :)

Added: actually, given that coilovers and other bits are readily available, you could turn it into a half decent drift car...

Edited by Iron Chef

i wonder if they would drift as smooth as they drive, would stay sideways forever ha ha.

would like to convert mine to manual but stuff trying to fit the clutch bits in the engine bay. will wait for the C35's to come in and get one as a daily and convert that to manual, then pimp around in the gloria on the weekends

ok guys, quick question,

i got a cable for my ipod to plug into the AV inputs behind the center console, only problem is that the music only comes through the left and right front speakers, where as when i have a cd in it comes through all the speakers. have any of you guys tried using the AV inputs yet?

seems as though my audio has moved to the front 2 speakers... so i was trying to get to the screen today where you can adjust where the sound comes from and i cant figure out how to get to the screen. i have had it up before when i first got the car but i cant find it now.

the translation book needs some sort of ladder diagram so people can see what screen leads to what.

if you could help me Ben, that would be great :banana:

yeah mate. Press the sound button. Then scroll completely over to the right and you'll see an option for front speakers, rear speakers and all at the bottom. Im pretty sure after that you adjust fad and balance further along as well. I'll have a look again tomorrow for ya :(

ha ha nice work Ben, will your black one ever get back on the road?

how many km on the parts car?

they shouldn't have even made the spoiler on them an option...

They shouldve made that ass end an option, so that you could have something nicer :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...