Jump to content
SAU Community

Sick Of People Claiming Ghost Rwkw!


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm with you on this one... ...Went to a Dyno Day at RE Customs and got almost 150kws... ...So I tell people that... ...It's got what it's got...

However... ...If you're a tool in a Comedydor and you ask me at the lights I might just say it's a little shy of 250kws... ...And then let you tear up those sweet looking steel stockies as you try to prove you've got more ba-- *ahem* power... :P

That's pretty much what I did. Up until it was dyno'd, if someone asked me what power it has, I would say "I dunno, never been dyno'd, but if I had to guess... 180?" I copped a bit of shit for that number but it was the best guess I had...

The car was stock (intercooler ONLY), plus I was young and naive!

Then it got dyno'd at 178.2 :D runs a higher then factory PSI for some unknown reason... Man that shut some people up :D

Common man, we all know your car is a bigger piece of crap... even when pitted against the highly unreliable and highly flammable HR31

:P

we shall see who wins when benno has time 2 look at it ... u will cry when if tell how it happened

on a slghtly related topic (not like that matters in this thread anyhow) what really gets me is the discussion with holden owners who think that my 265rwkw is slow compared to a stock SS because holden like to stick pretty numbers on the back... :banana:

that's because the falcodore drivers beleive the numbers on the back is what car can "really" do.

I love explainig to these fools that the numbers on the back is what the engine pumps out not what it does at the wheels and they all go "nah man, that's crap it what it does at the wheels" and then see them get beaten by 'line, stagea, 180SX, WRX etc. and have the look of disbeleif on their faces

Edited by BigDirtyJase

Don't the hsv's have a small dyno print out stuck under the bonnet off how many killerwasps the car puts out..?

I think the Corvette has a plarque welded in to say what the kW reading is.

LOL!

yeah but that could be from an engine dyno readout...which while it's good because you know how much kw/hp the motor can pump out, still doesn't relate to rwkw/rwhp

beacuse if it was a read out at the wheels....wouldn't make the badging seem...so fake and full of lies??

i have had heaps of funny things said

"your that evo that is running anti lag arnt you?"

what mods you have? it stock just uped boost and exhuast Bull shit know evo is that quick you must have big turbo and built engine

your that evo with over 300kw

your that evo with over 240kw and running launch control

it dont bother me much anymore i let people talk say what they want i dont even list my mods anymore and what im running just let people talk and let times do the talking

yeah but that could be from an engine dyno readout...which while it's good because you know how much kw/hp the motor can pump out, still doesn't relate to rwkw/rwhp

beacuse if it was a read out at the wheels....wouldn't make the badging seem...so fake and full of lies??

Yep, thats what I was getting at.

Thanks.

OK,

I'm sure youv'e all got a mate or no of somebody like this but what is it with dudes claiming massive power outputs on relatively stock cars. I'm not going to even look into the pshycology of it all but man it pissses me off.

So yesterday I was at a mates shop rewiring a hole heap of stuff and general maintenance and a unnamed SAU member came by in his 33. He was all like what are you putting down at the treds. I said Last dyno was 231RWKW. He was like yeah iv'e got 340rwkw with a stock turbo on 15psi with just a computer, fuel pump and exhaust. I mean I wanted to just get right into it but I thought f*ck it. What the point…. People like that aren't worth it. I mean I have stock injectors and max them out at full tilt. Now how the hell to I get another 100kw down on those injectors. I have the HKS2535, bosch pump, surge tank, fuel reg, computer, FMIC, exhaust, Z32, Boost control, pod blah blah blah and I cannot squeeze that sorta power out…..

Am I missing something or are these people just living a pipe dream.

I swear i can't stand it, It all ways happen's to me, cant stand it from people with V8's say they have like 200+kws from a standed 5ltr with gears, stage 2 shift kit and monster tacho. One of my mates had a VP 5ltr it only made 118kw.

My mate has a 5.7ltr fully work engine forgies soild cam big bux spent on it, The work shop told him it was makeing 280kw. He told a diffent tuner and he laught and said no way put it on the dyno and it only made 250kw. I ve heard most V8 joint's dyno are way out so it looks better for them.

So i guess the V8 fans are liveing in Fantasy.

Ps has any one ever heard a v8 fan say there engine rated at 500hp Thinking that makes the car 500hp at the weels. :P .

the vx seies made around thew 220 rwkw mark in standard trim... there's a thread round here somewhere where all the recent falcodors were dyno'ed cant remember the exact figure.

so 300rwkw is EASY.

but remember they are 1.8 tonnes too...

11's are EASY with an ls1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...