Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Parag0n is right with the diff ratios of the oz built R31's but LSD's only came out in silhouettes. The normal silhouettes (not the GTS's) came out with 3.9 LSD's with auto trans and 3.7 LSD's with manual trans. GTS1's were all manual and came with 3.7 LSD's while GTS2's came with 3.9 LSD's regardless of whether they are auto or manual.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24485-r31-diff/#findComment-522547
Share on other sites

you cant put the R200 in an Oz skyline.

The Imports are IRS, Oz spec are live Axle.

Some here can say you can 'convert' it but realistically for cost, you'd be far better off buying an import.

The R200 is tough as nails though. I have never heard of one dying :) and i treat mine very roughly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24485-r31-diff/#findComment-523101
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Bluprint

For Australian R31s:

Skyline Auto = 3.889:1

Skyline Manual = 3.70:1

Pintara Auto & Manual = 4.11:1

Silhouette GTS1 Manual Only = 3.70:1

Silhouette GTS2 Auto & Manual = 3.889:1

close.....

but one too many 8's

Skyline Auto = 3.89:1

Skyline Manual = 3.70:1

Pintara Auto & Manual = 4.11:1

Silhouette GTS1 Manual Only = 3.70:1

Silhouette GTS2 Auto & Manual = 3.89:1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24485-r31-diff/#findComment-523367
Share on other sites

close.....  

but one too many 8's  

Skyline Auto = 3.89:1  

Skyline Manual = 3.70:1  

Pintara Auto & Manual = 4.11:1  

Silhouette GTS1 Manual Only = 3.70:1  

Silhouette GTS2 Auto & Manual = 3.89:1

Straight out of my service manual:

Australian Nissan Skyline/Pintara 1986-1990

Manual 3.7:1

Auto 3.889:1

Pintara Auto: 4.1:1 (to help the lazy CA20 motor rev into it's torque range)

This is the Borg Warner BTR78 series 2 pinion (weak!) diff.

This diff was also found in:

XT-EA Ford Falcon

Late VK-VR Commodore

Not sure with the 25 spline LSD's or 28 spline 4 pinion LSD's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24485-r31-diff/#findComment-524509
Share on other sites

yep the same diff was used in the vl commodore. a similar one is in the vn-vr except its wider. I am looking at fitting a r31 diff on my vn commodore but i was hoping to pic up an lsd one cheap. Or i could just remove the lsd and gears to keep cost down. Has anyone got an lsd one from the wreckers or any prices? thanks for the replys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24485-r31-diff/#findComment-525097
Share on other sites

Originally posted by surfiemullet

yep the same diff was used in the vl commodore. a similar one is in the vn-vr except its wider. I am looking at fitting a r31 diff on my vn commodore but i was hoping to pic up an lsd one cheap. Or i could just remove the lsd and gears to keep cost down. Has anyone got an lsd one from the wreckers or any prices? thanks for the replys.

good luck getting one that doesn't whine like crazy, or isnt stuffed, unfortunatly seems to be pretty common

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24485-r31-diff/#findComment-525171
Share on other sites

it is 3.889 divide the 2 numbers and it goes on a bit.

if you round that off it 3.89 again thats 3.9 again thats 4.

most use the 3.89 so no to confuse with holden or banjo 3.9.

to use in a holden,count the axle splines first.

they are all different.

r31 skylines use 4 pinion diffs.import and local.

Sohc imports have 4.11 2 pinion diffs suprise so does a pintara.

not all turbos have lsd.its a factory option.

all silo have lsd.

import 4 cy use a banjo diff the same as 5 link laurels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24485-r31-diff/#findComment-525275
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...