R33 Abs Problem Fixed! For $4

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

If the part number is the same, should be sex

47600 15U00

[copycutter]

There was only white writing on the underside saying 6514

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

damn, high chance it is different then

where do you live? can't see your location.. if you're in Sydney you're more than welcome to try my ABS relay block

[copycutter]

Hey mate. Thanks but I'm on Gold Coast.

What I meant was my existing relay has that number on it, and the one from the wreckers is the same obviously.

I'm getting my friend with the 34 to check his tomorrow morning. Can't see why it'd be different though.

[copycutter]

I was looking at the ABS relay modules for 34's on ebay and they look different exterior wise to 33. Does anyone know if internally they are the same thing? IE will testing my friend's 34 module on my 33 actually be a valid test or are they totally different?

Here's a 34 one:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/nissan-r34-gtt-skyline-abs-pump-brake-unit-1998-/251175536077?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7b3a85cd&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1180

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

the plugs look nearly identical..

just try it anyways, if it plugs it or not

won't fit.. just found a photo

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/369986-r33-gts-t-series-2-auto-ecu-abs-relays-in-box/

Edited February 14, 2013 by johnnilicte

[copycutter]

Aw shit

[copycutter]

YES!!! Fixed it!

Johnnilicte you were totally right man. I went back to the wrecker and asked to try another relay since I felt that this relay is a common fault and that the 1st relay from the wrecker had a rattle when you shake it next to your ear, I figured it wouldn't hurt at least.

The guy was cool and grabbed me another one, and it actually worked.

To everyone with this abs dash-light fault and error code from OBD2 scan, try a relay box from a friend with a known working system, or go to a wrecker and try a few. This saved me hundreds.

Thanks again dude

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

no worries mate, common problem with R33s

[copycutter]

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

LOL we don't own Hondas...

never see that check engine light, unless you have a PowerFC lol

On a side note, keep that block.. those relays inside can be had at Jaycar for about $5~$6, downside is they're a sluuut to solder on with just a normal soldering iron.

[copycutter]

Hahaha.

Would it be worth trying to get hold of the special soldering iron you'd need vs just buying another block from a wrecker if it died again?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

a proper vacuum soldering iron with adjustable temperature isn't cheap

another alternative, is to buy the relays and bring it to a local TV repair shop and ask them to swap them over. I'm sure they got the right tools

[ianjb]

I had the same issue. I had access to a replacement already so I wasn't going to bother to try to fix it. but As it comes up high in search engines and is missing the images, I thought id just pull mine apart and get some snaps.

The module itself wasn't easy to open without breaking the plastic (nearly 20 year old plastic). but once I'd buggered it up, it came apart pretty easy. note: the 4 clip looking things down the long side of the module aren't actually clips, its just the 2 little ones that sit on the end of the module (photos). Once I got 1 end open I could easily just pull it apart.

just the other end clip bit.

cover off

part information

circuit board

when I shake the module/board piece there is a rattle inside.

as I said, I'm not trying to fix it, despite breaking the little piece of plastic it has gone back together again no problems and the busted bit hasn't affected its seal at all. If anyone wants to try and fix this one they are welcome to come get it.

[r33skylinegtst]

Sorry to dig up an older thread but I recently fixed my second one of these and thought it wouldn't hurt to upload some decent pics and give a detailed explanation should anyone find the need to fix theirs as well - especially seeings as all the pics in the thread don't seem to be working anymore.

I've done two now, the one in my car which is still working fine over 4 years later, and recently another one for a friend. I'm not an auto electrician by any stretch, but hopefully this will help the average Joe like myself - I haven't skimped any detail in case this is your first time with a soldering iron. It's really not that hard!

I believe this only applies to Series 2 GTS-T's, the ABS relay box on series 1's is different (and the relay part numbers themselves are different too, pull yours apart as per below before ordering new ones if you aren't sure!) though I can't confirm that for sure as I've never pulled one apart. Could apply to GTR's/Stagea's as well, worth a try!

 

Before you start, you will need the following;

- A soldering iron, mine is a Jaycar special and does the job just fine

- Desolder Braid - can also be had from Jaycar, I used the 1.5mm GOOT stuff

- Some solder to put in the new relays, again Jaycar

- The new relays (duh!) The ones I pulled from both relay units were branded Matsushita CB1-P-12V, I found replacement Panasonic units from RS Components Australia online, their part number is 815-5094. the price for two was about $14 inc shipping.

1. Remove the ABS relay located in the top LHS of the engine bay, there are three electrical connectors to unplug. The unit is mounted on a little metal spade-type mounting plate and it should slide off that. There is an 8mm bolt holding the mounting plate on, so you can undo that if it doesn't want to slide off, doesn't make any difference.

2. Crack open the relay. The plastic is pretty brittle after 20 odd years, so it is liable to snap - don't stress too much as you can use a cable tie later if it comes to that. Ease a flat head under either side, once you get one it should leverage off from there.

3. Now the case is off, you should be able to slide the circuit board and relays out from the lower plastic casing (that all the plugs connect to). When you've done this, it should look like the below in three pieces, the upper plastic case, the lower plastic case (with plugs) and the circuit board with relays. 

4. Usually only one of these relays fails, but it stands to reason if one has gone the other probably isn't far behind so good practice to do both. If you give the whole unit a shake you'll probably even hear something inside one of the relays rattling around, a sure-fire sign it's shot. If you inspect the new relays, you'll see they mount via 5 little prongs, so to remove the old ones you need to get the solder off those prongs that holds them to the circuit board. Note that on one side only the outer 4 prongs are soldered in, the middle one is not soldered.

  

Place the soldering iron tip on the solder around the prong, the aim here is to get the old solder melted again so that the braid can be used to soak up the solder. Have the braid handy and feed it in, or put it under the tip of the iron between the solder, either works really. Just be careful not to contact the plastic circuit board too much, you don't want to melt it. The braid and relays will get hot if it contacts the iron for too long so be mindful of that.

Do this for all 5 solder joints on one side, and all 4 on the other. Take your time, you need to remove as much as possible or it won't come apart and you risk breaking the circuit board when you try to remove the relays.

6. Once you're confident the solder is removed, you now need to separate the relays from the circuit board. They usually don't just pull off, so I found the best way to remove them was to use a bench vice.

Very gently wind the vice in so there's just a small amount of pressure on the sides of the board holding it in place. Can't stress this enough, do not tighten, you just want it suspended, you don't want to snap it! Then using a metal punch and a hammer, very lightly tap the tip of each prong of the relays, working your way around each one and you should see them slowly slide of the circuit board. When you have a tiny bit of movement you should be able to pull them off by hand.

7. Now push your new relays onto the circuit board in place of your old ones. Make sure they're on snug and now it's time to bust out the soldering iron to solder them back in place. Put the iron on the prongs and give it a few seconds to bring some heat in, then try and melt the solder onto the prong (not the iron). You don't just want a blob on the prong, it needs to melt onto the circuit board as well or you won't have a good connection between the two. If you keep the iron on it for a few seconds you should see it dip and sink into the board. Don't be heavy handed with the solder here, you don't need to feed a lot of it in just enough to cover the prong and make that contact with the circuit board.

Repeat for the 8 other prongs (9 total).

8. Now you can reassemble the unit to the casing. Slide the circuit board onto the bottom plastic casing part with the connectors on it. It will only fit one way so if it doesn't want to slide on, turn it round. Place the metal cube things on top and slide the top casing on. If you broke any tabs pulling it apart, you can use a zip tie to pull the casing closed.

9. Refit to your car, kick her over and marvel that the ABS light is now gone. If not, double check that your solder joints have been done correctly (I stupidly missed one the second time I did it, so it pays to slow it down and not rush the process).

 

Hope this helps someone else out in the future  Happy to answer any questions best I can if anyone gets stuck.

Edited March 17, 2018 by r33skylinegtst
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