Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just taking mine off the other day. It's not 20 screws, there's only 10-12 hex bolts.

What does the one you have look like? There's plenty of cheaper aftermarket ones from Japan that are made from fibreglass rather than the factory plastic made ones.

Oh yeah, I know of one car that had theirs nicked at the docks. It's piss easy to take off and you dont need a jack at all. They only took the front section and not the mid piece.

Edited by mxfly
I was just taking mine off the other day. It's not 20 screws, there's only 10-12 hex bolts.

What does the one you have look like? There's plenty of cheaper aftermarket ones from Japan that are made from fibreglass rather than the factory plastic made ones.

Oh yeah, I know of one car that had theirs nicked at the docks. It's piss easy to take off and you dont need a jack at all. They only took the front section and not the mid piece.

Mine is plastic, the only pic I have is of the back piece to it, the part that faces the chassis,

it looks like this.. the front piece looks more simple, just a big flat sheet of plastic..

Honestly I'm totally confused at this point, the workshop was trying to tell me one of the

diffusers looked like an "old" design not expected to be the one on the car. I am not not

sure whether they were talking about the carbon rear one, or the front piece or this piece!

paranoia on my part probably. But if they shop didn't bother raising it as an issue, I wouldn't

be freaking out.

post-51561-1227245721_thumb.jpg

The piece you have there is the mid part, right side is to front of the car and left to the centre. If your front diffuser is plastic, i'd bet my dollar is the factory one. Perhaps they are talking about the rear carbon diffuser. If they did rip it off, it's going to be damn exp to replace.

Also when you say simple, it does look pretty straight forward to me as well. I think you should check out the car itself.

  • 3 weeks later...

I may have taken a photo of the diffuser before I installed it on the car. I will look when I get home and try to post it.

The engine cover, pictured in the last 1-2 posts, has two holes in the right side that hooks from the original diffuser fit nicely into, and I'm pretty sure you've got 12 M6 bolts that hold it on, all spaced around the front.

The original one also has two pieces of triangular foam on it, similar to the four pieces shown on the engine cover. Often, these are ripped off, but I've never seen the foam pieces on a non-genuine diffuser.

Incidentally, the 'lip' on the car itself is much smaller and is standard on all the GTR (with two holes on the left and two on the right), but the full underbody diffuser is only part of a V-Spec or II package. It looks like a flat piece but creates a central gap that appears to be divided into three sections when it's mated up to the lip. The non V-Spec literally looks like it's missing a part, but really isn't.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
×
×
  • Create New...