Jump to content
SAU Community

Video: Chinese Built Chery Failing A Crash Test

TheTunersGroup
 Share

Recommended Posts

TheTunersGroup Proficient

TheTunersGroup

Posted
Posted

http://www.autosavant.com/2007/08/08/chery...l-a-crash-test/ reads ...

"designed to replicate the often-cited EuroNCAP offset barrier test ... The car continued deforming past the rear edge of the front fender and continued until the crash test dummy driver's face was as far forward as the barrier!

Don't take my word for it - see it for yourself below.

The test dummy became so entwined in the wreckage that it had to be removed from the car in pieces; he basically became part of the dashboard and steering wheel.

The results were so bad that AvtoRevu called on Chery to immediately withdraw the car from the market. Chery declined to do so."

Video is here ...

http://www.autosavant.com/2007/08/08/chery...l-a-crash-test/

And guess what ? ...

http://www.themotorreport.com.au/4080/atec...mobile-company/

Reads ...

"Ateco, the exclusive importer of Ferrari, Maserati, Alfa Romeo, Citroen and Fiat products for Australia and New Zealand has extended its interests to cars from China.

The company’s Managing Director, Neville Crichton, announced yesterday that a distributorship agreement for Australia and New Zealand had been signed with Chery Automobile Company ...

Ateco initially expects to launch three Chery models early in 2009 – a light and a small passenger car plus a small SUV. Chery has four new models to unveil later this year and plans to release 38 new models over the next five years."

- Adam

eeiko321 Experienced

eeiko321

Posted
Posted

that shouldnt be called a "Chery"....

should be called a "Lemon" instead........ :sick:

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted
that shouldnt be called a "Chery"....

should be called a "Lemon" instead........ :sick:

They can't even spell C-H-E-R-Y correctly. So why should they merit the right spelling for L-E-M-O-N???

It should be L-E-M-M-I-N-G!

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

Fortunately for us before ANY car is allowed for sale or import into Australia it must meet out very very strict safety standards. Now in your line of retail there may be no regulatory body to prevent dodgy chinese manufacturers to replicate your product and sell it cheaper with less quality control, but when it comes to cars, and their safety, Australian regulation has it well under control (in fact some forum members might have even been pulled up on altering their vehicles to a point where they don't meet these standards :sick: I'd even hazard a guess that some products you sell help break these safety regulations when used on road going cars instead of race cars as recommended).

Chery might make the most atrocious cars on earth, BUT if they're gonna even put one wheel on Australian soil they'll have to get past the Australian regulatory bodies... something even American and European manufacturers fail to do constantly (some Ford manufactured trucks, Rover 100 etc. in fact, the worst NCAP rating ever given to a car was for the Rover 100. You should watch the footage of that test, it was worse than the one you posted). There's also independent testing by ANCAP, who's data most manufacturers (or in this case importers) will consult prior to investing so heavily in a car.

TheTunersGroup Proficient

TheTunersGroup

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Fortunately for us before ANY car is allowed for sale or import into Australia it must meet out very very strict safety standards. Now in your line of retail there may be no regulatory body to prevent dodgy chinese manufacturers to replicate your product and sell it cheaper with less quality control but when it comes to cars, and their safety, Australian regulation has it well under control (in fact some forum members might have even been pulled up on altering their vehicles to a point where they don't meet these standards :sick: I'd even hazard a guess that some products you sell help break these safety regulations when used on road going cars instead of race cars as recommended).

We don't "help break safety regulations". As it says on our terms and conditions of sale page ...

---------------------

"WARNING

All parts sold ... except for street legal/DOT approved parts, are racing parts for off road use only. Federal and many State laws prohibit the removal, modification, or rendering inoperable of any device or element of design affecting the vehicle emission or safety in a vehicle used on public highways."

---------------------

That said, one of our manufacturers was a founding member of the industry group that developed the safety standards for aftermarket products in Japan, and their products are put through extremely rigourous safety testing in Japan, so they definitely take safety very seriously.

- Adam

Iron Chef Grand Master

Iron Chef

Posted
Posted
Fortunately for us before ANY car is allowed for sale or import into Australia it must meet out very very strict safety standards. Now in your line of retail there may be no regulatory body to prevent dodgy chinese manufacturers to replicate your product and sell it cheaper with less quality control, but when it comes to cars, and their safety, Australian regulation has it well under control (in fact some forum members might have even been pulled up on altering their vehicles to a point where they don't meet these standards :sick: I'd even hazard a guess that some products you sell help break these safety regulations when used on road going cars instead of race cars as recommended).

Chery might make the most atrocious cars on earth, BUT if they're gonna even put one wheel on Australian soil they'll have to get past the Australian regulatory bodies... something even American and European manufacturers fail to do constantly (some Ford manufactured trucks, Rover 100 etc. in fact, the worst NCAP rating ever given to a car was for the Rover 100. You should watch the footage of that test, it was worse than the one you posted). There's also independent testing by ANCAP, who's data most manufacturers (or in this case importers) will consult prior to investing so heavily in a car.

Beat me to it :)

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted
We don't "help break safety regulations". As it says on our terms and conditions of sale page ...

<blah blah>

That said, one of our manufacturers was a founding member of the industry group that developed the safety standards for aftermarket products in Japan, and their products are put through extremely rigourous safety testing in Japan, so they definitely take safety very seriously.

Read my post more carefully, I did mention that it would help break the safety laws for aussie cars if used outside the recommended terms. Doesn't matter, that wasn't even the point I was making.

Although, I will say that Japan's safety requirements are a farce compared to Australia's... and their independent group approvals aren't worth the metal they're stamped on outside of Japan where more stringent laws apply.

For example:

JASMA approval needs a 98db clearance on an exhaust. Australian law says 90db. Sustained exposure (anything around 3 hours a day) to anything above 95db will result in permanent hearing loss. 98db is roughly 8 times louder than 95db, and its perfectly fine to drive around in a car making 98db according to their safety standards.

TheTunersGroup Proficient

TheTunersGroup

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Although, I will say that Japan's safety requirements are a farce compared to Australia's... and their independent group approvals aren't worth the metal they're stamped on outside of Japan where more stringent laws apply

What, like Australia where there are no safety regulations enforced on many aftermarket products at all ?

For example:

JASMA approval needs a 98db clearance on an exhaust. Australian law says 90db. Sustained exposure (anything around 3 hours a day) to anything above 95db will result in permanent hearing loss. 98db is roughly 8 times louder than 95db, and its perfectly fine to drive around in a car making 98db according to their safety standards.

Are you sure that "98db is roughly 8 times louder than 95db" ?

http://trace.wisc.edu/docs/2004-About-dB/

reads...

dB SPL (Sound Pressure Level) (20dB = 10x)

The term “SPL” stands for sound pressure level. SPL measures are taken with respect to the minimum threshold for human hearing. A 20 dB difference in SPL represents a ratio of ten-to-one in sound pressure.

Thus, a 40dB SPL would be a sound pressure level that is 100 times greater than the sound pressure level of the quietest sound that normal human hearing can detect.

Perception of Loudness (20dB = 4x)

Interestingly, our perception of loudness is not the same as sound pressure level. Although the actual formulae

is somewhat complex, as a rough rule of thumb, an increase of 10db SPL is perceived to be approximately twice as loud.

Thus a 20 Db gain would seem to be about 4 times as loud.

And a 40 Db gain would seem to be about 16 times as loud.

If you're talking about perception of loudness, then 115dB would be 4 times as loud as 95dB, so going on the "an increase of 10dB SPL is perceived to be approximately twice as loud" guide, to get to a sound that is 8 times as loud as 95dB, you'd need a sound of 125dB, not 98dB.

If you're talking about dB SPL (Sound Pressure Level 20dB = 10x) then a sound ten times louder than 95dB would be 115dB right ?

Also, the JASMA standards you mentioned are being changed ...

http://www.belgarage.com.au/index.php?opti...62&Itemid=1 reads ...

jasma.jpg

JASMA CERTIFIED items assures that our products can be used with trust and assurance.

JASMA CERTIFIED items are registered with the government to assure street legal items.

Our line-up guarantees the quality and testing cleared by JASMA

Certified items has the JASMA plate on each of our products.

JASMA members, such as 5ZIGEN has our own strenuous testing done as well as required by laws of JASMA.

NEW CHANGES IN THE REGULATIONS

PLEASE SEE THE DESCRIPTIONS BELOW FOR CURRENT REGULATIONS

THE NEW LAWS DO NOT REFLECT THE CURRENT VEHICLES ON THE ROAD TODAY.

The new laws reflect all vehicles sold from January, 2009 and all vehicles manufactured from December, 2010. All import vehicles from December, 2010 will also be reflected.

0411_jasma_05.jpg

To make sure you know where your exhausts are manufactured, we recommend to check the following:

JASMA plate on the product

JASMA registeration number

PLEASE BE KINDLY REMINDED THAT ONLY JASMA MEMBERS ARE ALLOWED TO SELL PRODUCTS WITH A JASMA PLATE.

For more information, please visit the official JASMA website: http://www.jasma.org/

The Japanese have a large range of safety tests performed on aftermarket products including Material Hardness Tests, Material Tensile Tests, Static load bending tests, Static load torsion tests, Static load fatigue bending tests, Static load fatigue torsion tests and so on.

Safety standards in Japan are also set by ASEA (Auto Sports & Special Equipment Association) which is the Japanese equivalent of SEMA.

Additional test methods for aftermarket products in Japan are are defined by the public JASO standards and JIS Standards.

It's very clear that the Japanese take safety very seriously.

- Adam

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

What I'm trying to say is that the standard they comply and test so rigorously to are sometimes too lenient that they will not satisfy australian standards in most cases. You can put it through as much quality control and testing as you want, but if the benchamark is set too low, then meeting the benchmark means nothing.

In Australia, in automotive aftermarket products, they need to meet government set, ISO standard derived ADR standards, in other industries there are other ISO standards which need to be met. Not every part sold in Japan is some high quality product of billions of dollars of research or years of time... similarly in Australia there are parts which are sold legally which aren't standards approved, and its not policed because the government couldn't care less about the miniscule sector that is aftermarket parts.

As for the standards themselves that you mention... JIS, JASO and ASEA standards are set by associations with a vested interest in the businesses which are its members, or simply don't have enough jurasdiction to have to be enforced (companies can elect to meet these standards if they want to), as such they're only partially accepted internationally.

TheTunersGroup Proficient

TheTunersGroup

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What I'm trying to say is that the standard they comply and test so rigorously to are sometimes too lenient that they will not satisfy australian standards in most cases. You can put it through as much quality control and testing as you want, but if the benchamark is set too low, then meeting the benchmark means nothing.

Which kinds of benchmarks are you referring to there ? Noise standards ? (see my post above about the changes to the JASMA standards and the dB question).

Anyway, we're probably getting way OT here - interesting discussion though :P

Anyone got any other crash test videos ?

- Adam

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

i say bring on the cherry... if i get t-boned by one in my 33 then i'll just buff out the scratches in the clear, clean off the blood and dismembered limbs and drive on :P

.:: GimpS-R34 ::. Grand Master

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Posted
Posted

LOL sounds good.. and have highway rules that are applied to the autobahn too yeah?

since the discusion of aus standards regarding exhausts.. why is it that we arent aloud more than 90dB but a harley davidson shit box is aloud 11ty billion dB and deafen the f**k outta me when they drive past with my window down :blink:

TheTunersGroup Proficient

TheTunersGroup

Posted
  • Author
Posted
LOL sounds good.. and have highway rules that are applied to the autobahn too yeah?

since the discusion of aus standards regarding exhausts.. why is it that we arent aloud more than 90dB but a harley davidson shit box is aloud 11ty billion dB and deafen the f**k outta me when they drive past with my window down :(

The new noise cameras being trialled in Australia will likely affect many bikes ...

http://www.themotorreport.com.au/10703/aus...-noise-cameras/

- Adam

Sl!m Grand Master

Sl!m

Posted
Posted
LOL sounds good.. and have highway rules that are applied to the autobahn too yeah?

since the discusion of aus standards regarding exhausts.. why is it that we arent aloud more than 90dB but a harley davidson shit box is aloud 11ty billion dB and deafen the f**k outta me when they drive past with my window down :P

I don't ride a bike and don't have to much interest in them so I don't know if this is fact, though I am pretty sure Bikes are allowed a louder dB reading for safety. A lot of people fail to look for bikes coming up behind them but you can usually hear when one is around you and that makes you double check.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
The new noise cameras being trialled in Australia will likely affect many bikes ...

http://www.themotorreport.com.au/10703/aus...-noise-cameras/

- Adam

i'm sooo gonna stand behind these with an air horn till the hdd fails :P

DAS KAMU Veteran

DAS KAMU

Posted
Posted
LOL sounds good.. and have highway rules that are applied to the autobahn too yeah?

since the discusion of aus standards regarding exhausts.. why is it that we arent aloud more than 90dB but a harley davidson shit box is aloud 11ty billion dB and deafen the f**k outta me when they drive past with my window down :P

the po po may be a little scared to pull over "mad dog" as "mad dog" and his mates spider , bazza , warren and steve have ways of getting back at the officer

dont they.....................

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...