Jump to content
SAU Community

Refittinfg The Turbo

66yostagea

By 66yostagea,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

You dont need to bleed them Hugh. They arent a closed system so they should be fine just off pump pressure. If you are really paranoid you can try getting some oil in there manually, but you dont need to get the air out before the oil can get in. Just give it a few minutes at idle before revving it up just to be on the safe side.

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

As Dale mentioned, it's not a closed system - the oil is shared with the motor so it will pretty much sort itself out as the oil is pumped through the turbo and back into the engine.

jippa Proficient

jippa

Posted
Posted
do it up tighter than tight, if it leaks do up more

no leak no worries - its oil straight from the engine so no bleeding or whatnot, just dont run with an ongoing leak!!

why tighter than tight.. seems the seal should be ok if the washer and surfaces are new and clean.. over tightening could be bad yea?

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
Posted

In theory if it is new turbo or one that has been rebuilt you should try and get some oil into the bearings before you kick the engine over...this is because it takes a small amount of time for the oil to get to the core on first start up...another way is hold the compressor wheel still for a few seconds on the first start up....the main aim is to stop the turbo from spinning dry..even if it is only for a few seconds...in reality I am not sure if many people do this and the implication of not doing this is very often indeterminate...ie the damage done is very small and may reduce the bearing life by fractions of a percent...

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted
why tighter than tight.. seems the seal should be ok if the washer and surfaces are new and clean.. over tightening could be bad yea?

yEA...

copper does a thing known in metallurgy as "work hardening" which means that the more pressure or vibration is is subjected to, the quicker it goes brittle and useless as a seal. The best approach is to get it to seal with the least pressure possible, at least that way you have the option of maybe being able to nip it up a tad if it starts to weep.

Also, new or rebuilt turbo's SHOULD be assembled with preassembly lube, so its only really important to splash some oil into the cartridge if its a second hand jobbie that has been sitting. New ones are usually OK to let spin until they get oil pressure, but stopping it with your fingers is a bloody good idea for second hand ones.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
What I will do, as am fitting new plugs, is fit the lines loosely and then crank the motor till oil comes up the line. Then tighten.

Yep as people have said no need to bleed as not a closed system (so no need to loosen your oil feed pipe once its on).

A few extracts from the instructions that came with my GCG turbo today:

"Fill the oil inlet hole of the turbocharger with new engine oil and spin the compressor wheel by hand a few times - it should spin freely. Note: it is normal to feel some up and down movement on the wheels."

"Fit the oil drain line. Refill the oil inlet hole with new clean engine oil and reconnect the oil feed line."

"If possible, prevent the engine from firing and crank the engine for 10 - 15 seconds to prime oil feed. Start the engine and idle for three to four minutes before increasing speed. Check for oil and gas leaks."

" High crankcase pressure can stop oil from draining - causes leaks from turbo... Inspect and replace if necessary the engine PCV valve as this may be blocked causing crankcase pressure."

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

when the Slide highflow went on, we brazed the old copper washer, did it up tight, and started the engine.

burbling sound, then 3L of fresh oil LOL

tighter than tight means that it didnt leak again.

been off since then at the shop for head studs, and again next week for poncams, head work etc.

just saying "tighter than tight" so as to not do what happened with mine lol

the installer (did my shocks as well) liked smoking spd so that might have something to do with it teehehe

"If possible, prevent the engine from firing and crank the engine for 10 - 15 seconds to prime oil feed. Start the engine and idle for three to four minutes before increasing speed. Check for oil and gas leaks."

yep that was sort of natural upon startup, took around 6 secs to fire up after cranking, enough time for oil to get in and lube it up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • Duncan
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Duncan
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Duncan · Posted

      Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...