Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt35r Vs Garrett T04z - Discussion (just Post In This Thread To Create A Database)


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Having a hard time working out what I want for my car.

Before I get into this... YES i have searched, found some info but didn't match what I was after... or was uncompleted "Il post my dyno results next week" and then nothing, all the threads had HEAPS of opinions but no facts or proof, since these threads come up all the time id like to compile a thread which will end all

Had a nice 2860-7 set-up planned for the car.. While stripping her, one of the coolant flare nuts seized... Result? Yanked the motor, opened her and started building her..

-26 block, 20 thou over

-HKS dove cut 86.5mm pistons

-fully prepped 33 crank

-eagle rods

-Genuine nissan bearings

-studs etc

-HKS full gasket kit

-N1 oil pump (at this stage, might upgrade to Tomei or Jun)

-N1 water pump

-jun baffle

-freshened up head

-new valve springs & guides

-in and ex hks 280 degree 10.2 lift step 2 camshafts

-HKS cam gears

-new balancer (yet to purchase)

bla bla bla

got a tial 44mm gate ready, 800cc injectors and 1x 044 (will need another for the Z and a cooler)

Compression ratio is going to remain very close if not standard atm..

Unsure if I want to go for a GT35R (1.06 housing, mech gave me the option of switching to .82 if i find it laggy)

or

a Garrett T04z..

Really confused atm.. Everyone is telling me different things;

-Garrett T04z's are crap

-The T04z will spool much quicker

etc etc... Its not one sided so im having great difficulty here.. I just want the car to be perfect for me..

It's a street car which I track and hill climb, im trying to get serious with my motorsport so don't want a lag monster, but understand that I will in both cases experience lag.. unsure if the extra power of the Z will offset the lag in satisfaction.

Looking for about 400kw on high boost.

Any info, or more so experiences would be great..

Have NFI how any of these perform on a stock capacity 26. I do not want to make the wrong decision.

Appreciate the info!

T04Z is a 440-450rwkw turbo

GT35 is 350-380 give/take

So i'm not sure where you get they are the same, will spool earlier or whatever.

GT35 is smaller. Therefore its going to be more responsive.

If you dont want a laggy car, then a T04Z is not for you, simple as that. You want the GT35 in a .82 or a set of -5's

.82 35r will do 400rwkw no problem. If you plan on doing tight 1-2nd gear work (most wa events) and want to be remotely quick I think even the 35r is too large.

a GT40R or GT4094R is a closer comparrison to a TO4Z, like Nismoid said, the GT35R is a smaller turbo.

also remember bearing desing on the GT series is a whole generation newer than on the TO4Z

People have used the TO4Z with great success on a stock capacity RB26

To give you an idea on the difference have a look at the dyno thread and find these users

T04GTR, DVS32R, CruiseLiner, Cerbera, R32-GTS, overpowered all run TO4Zs and all make well over 375kw

have a look and compare the powercurves of these turbos with your original choice of -7s.

You will find that the -7s will come on harder earlier, making your car suited to your original intent of track and hillclimb work. I would imagine that the single that get closest to power delivery of -7s would be a GT30R. But if you want more grunt go for the T04Z or GT equivalent, just dont expect it to be suited to short tight hillclimbs

No doubt they are animals, but when response counts (if the courses are indeed as tight as above) then you really want -7/GT30 style setups for max response, you'll be faster that way ;)

  • Like 1

i got t04z 1.00 getting tuned next week, not a full daily so didnt bother me, but if it was pretty much everyday street dont go t04z, unless u love a super hard hit but alot later hehe

t04z is in no way older technology that gt35, maybe theres confusion with the old t04e/s/r types, its an extremely quality turbo

Anna (msnismo) just upgraded from a GT3540 to a T04Z (RB25), being built buy dave (T04GTR) this week. I suggest if you're really having trouble deciding that you shoot Anna a PM. :P

Ash was pretty much spot on with his power ranges though... The T04Z will crack 400kw but will be pretty laggy (expect to spend most if not all of your time above 5krpm) and the GT3540 will be more responsive, but you'll have to ring it's neck to get the kind of power you want (don't think you will get it up to 400).

If you're already set up for twins, I would seriously think about keeping it that way. :laugh:

t04z is in no way older technology that gt35, maybe theres confusion with the old t04e/s/r types, its an extremely quality turbo

Yes it is, the core is the same tech as the GT35R but the wheels are pretty much the same as an old T67. Yuck things, though work really well on 3litres - probably as much as anything as by 3litres you are getting to the point that anything which isn't completely stupid will work well.

Ye the T04Z is by no means startling decent in terms of tech as above - older wheels.

I'd be looking @ GT40R instead of a T04Z - Discopotato has posted his usual degree of superb information on this already

t04z too laggy for any track work unless its a big open circuit event and u like keeping it above 4500rpm all day, even the gt3540 ive seen isnt that much nicer response wise. If u plan any sort of motorkana/tight track events its gotta be a smaller setup, dont think u will get 400kw and fly around tight corners, it just doesnt happen. I would go a 3082 for high 400hp figures but plenty of response, and for low 400hp but super response go the 3076r.

having shitloads of power is overrated imo, reading sites like this and everyone has a different opinion on how bad the lag is on certain turbos. If u have your car in 4th gear at 2500rpm and u plant it and u gotta wait till 4500rpm for it to go fast its a loooooong wait i can tell u that, on tight motorkana tracks u cant drop down a gear unless u wanna be in 1st gear most of the time.

thats my opinion anyway :P

  • Like 1

Ive had both t67 and td07s on my 3L and they are NOTHING like a t04z. At work also have a a t67 rb25 and a t04z .84 split housing rb25.

T04z's as mentioned have had heaps of success of stock capacity rb26 and rb25's. a T04z will need other parts to help it work efficiently, cams, etc etc, dont expect to just slap one on and it all works absolutley perfect, where as some of our gt35rs have worked sensational just bolted up.

if the technology ur refering to by old technology is the P trim exhaust wheel, yes the new one still uses that but its been highly refined and updated they have less blades and different pitch cant tell me they are the same, to say it uses old technology would be to that they havent refined the P trim at all since the early days. it also has the same bearing system as the gt42

as mentioned 2 totally different turbos

but people can have their own opinions i just go by what i have/had and experience

ben...

Edited by 2BNVS
Unsure if I want to go for a GT35R (1.06 housing, mech gave me the option of switching to .82 if i find it laggy)

or

a Garrett T04z..

The 1.06 housing is going to be far to large for the stuart hillclimbs and the bitumen sprints. Definetely go the .82 on the GT35 if your serious about these events and are set on only one of those options, even that im thinking might not be as resposive as you would want.

Richard has the garrett TO4z on his supra in a .82 im pretty sure (not sure if you knew rich) and it was the same response as having the orginal twins setup as a true twin system, not the sequential setup. It wasn't too laggy however that's obviously on a 3L.

Most even comparisson I can find between a T04Z and GT35, similar exhaust housings (both ~.8)

Similar boost levels (T04Z = 24psi, GT35 = 25psi). No porting on either, similar cam duration and lift.

2l8j9fc.jpg

400kw is just a nice figure I threw out, if it comes close il be happy.

Reason I have posted this thread is due to the "opinion" I keep hearing

"T04z is a much better designed, even with the bigger wheel it is not as laggy as a GT35R"

etc etc

Only a few people have shown or proven me anything, it's really hard to feel comfortable spending $1000's on a set-up which is not proven.

Im leaning towards the GT35R, the -7's are out of the question

Most even comparisson I can find between a T04Z and GT35, similar exhaust housings (both ~.8)

Similar boost levels (T04Z = 24psi, GT35 = 25psi). No porting on either, similar cam duration and lift.

2l8j9fc.jpg

Hey Paul,

any more info on the builds of these vehicles? Thanks for the graph

Blue line is Cerbera's.

2.6L, JUN 270deg cams, 2nd hand pistons. Very basic build.

Red line is Nik's (DCIEVE).

Not as sure on the specific's of his build, but it is a standard displacement 2.6L.

The reason I used Cerbera's T04Z graph instead of Simons (R32-GTS) is because Simon's has extensive head porting to make it come on song a lot earlier.

I am currently upgrading my Single Apexi IHI RX-6 TCW77P25 (makes 300kw on 20psi (lol or 24psi doesnt make any more HP as it cant flow anymore)) and is massively responsive!!! Makes the car very fast around the circuit.

I have gambled and am going for a GT35 .82 rear on a reasonably simple rb26. Will post my results next week. Aim is 350kw on 20psi But I am happy to sacrifice up top for as much down low as possible...

Car is only used for circuit, want to do some hill climbs etc too, which I think I might find it a bit laggy but hell, will soon see....

Michael

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...