Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Booked the car in last week to have the timing belt and water pump changed...

Have to say I couldnt recommend these guys enough, they did it all with ease, even fitted a GTR n1 pump...

I went off to a confrence in the morning and picked it up just after 5 in the arfternoon... They were extremely helpfull and i'll be getting all my work done there in the future...

They can do pretty much anything I think, so give them a call next time your in the market for some mech work!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24652-gavin-woods-auto-tech/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 181
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Agreed.

I recently had a heap of mods installed by Gavin and his team.

He also found other issues that I got him to fix too. It cost me, but in the end better than something major happening, and relieved that he found them at all.

I had my Apexi PFC installed by another mob in Brisbane - and apparently they left it a base tune. Grrr.

After Gavin properly tuned the ECU, the car feels great.

They get my business from now on.

here here...

I've owned my car coming on 3 and half years and Gavin is the only person other than me to have worked ondriven it.

We've been through exhaust sensors reading 4000 deg to cracking an exhaust manifold in half...I also, can't recommend him enough and am sure there will be many a good post to follow.

Well I travelled 30 hrs down and back from Townsville to see Gavin and he definately gets my vote the guy and his team were fantastic. He accomadated us very well taking the time out when i arrived to go through all the gear i had (quite a bit) for him to fit to my car and he understood that i was pushed for time and had to get back to townsville for work so just concentrated on my car for two weeks so it would be finished, he is definitely a dying breed in the auto industry where customer satisfaction comes first . :D

Oh, here we go.. Now everyone wants to blow his horn eh?

I've been saying for over a year that Gavin is the man for Nissan + tuning + service and people have said "no go to this place".

Meh, they are more friends to me now than a mechanic :)

Christmas card buddies.. you know the story :)

Best. Mechanic. Ever.

Still no one understands why I drive to laborador to get my car fixed/serviced. Now you all know why.

And if it wasn't for me sitting here saying "GO TO GAVIN... GO TO GAVIN" no one would have known about him :)

You all know how much I baby my car, and for me to trust him or any of the other mechanics in his workshops says a lot :)

We also need to give recommendation to the other guys in the workshop. They seem to be forgotten when people say "Gavin Woods" yet the other guys do most of the work while gavins off in other parts of the country doing tuning :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...