Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol, another case of Sump Baffle Syndrome (SBS)!

Are you guys personnally aware of any RB25DET that has had problems caused by oil surge on the track?

I will admit that I have heard of some RB26DETTs in race cars running slicks that have had problems, but not 25s.

Yeah mate, a big sump will be a good idea - especially once the truck turbo goes on and the pistons have no ring lands left on them - you'll be burning more oil than fuel!!!!! Thats where the extra capacity will come in handy!!!

Nah seriously though, not a bad thing to get, and maybe a oil cooler as well. Did you contact the place in Victoria?

Hi Duncan, "I will admit that I have heard of some RB26DETTs in race cars running slicks that have had problems"

We have rebuilt 3 X RB26's that had problems, no slicks. Two just had normal road tyres, one had R type tyres. But like you, I would like to hear from anyone who has had a problem with oil surge in an RB20 or RB25 in a RWD chassis.

Yeah, and another of the club's RB26DETTs on road tyres blew up at Eastern Creek about 12 months ago.

But really, AFAIK these examples are all *really* hard track driven cars, and all GTRs. I just think there is a bit of hysteria regarding SBS (Sump Baffle Sydnrome) on the forums at the moment.

The main reason for bigger sump was as a substitute for a cooler. I've assumed that the bigger oil capacity would be enough to give the motor a bit of protection during the occassional hills blast and track days.

I have also assumed the big sump would be much cheaper and simpler than cooler setup.

So RB26 vs RB25 oil pressure issues are simply due to

- exit corner G force with GTR vs GTS-T or

- some inherent design fault or

- 1k higher RPM limit with RB26s????

If the standard sump is OK for my next step, bigger turbo and therefore higher RPM use, maybe up to 7600rpm then I won't worry about it.

By the way, are RB25s OK for valve bounce at higher boost & RPM?

Originally posted by Clint32

Im guessing by the time you buy a sump and go to the hassle of fitting it a oil cooler would be cheaper and easier to fit.  Cooler should only be about $300, and another $200 for fittings and the mount block.

The good oil coolers with the remote oild filter adapter sell for around $800 new!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...