Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i got done a month ago for bald rear tyres in my 2 door witch wernt at all so all i done literly was drove down to christys cop shop an got it aken off the sapol officer came out checked them an said yep fine to me an explaind i should sell the car as its a target as theses cars get used all he time in high speed pursuits i then said to him have a look in he back see the child seat dont think so bloke

mechainc at work has a r32 got a canarie to regency 2 days after he got it passed i t got done again for the same things wich he changed so i said for him to take it to the cop shop an explain whats happend an the officer went out looked at the car asked if the exhaust was stock an then took the sticker off an cleared the car

ive also been told wether its a myth or not or if it works i dont try to get done but its go's along like this if you go to motor reg an give them the rego number an vin an ask if the car is defected as your lookin into buying it if its not then your car isnt as i said im not sure if it work or its a myth

Translated: :)

Hello. I got done a month ago for bald rear tyres in my 2 door, which were not at all. So all I did, literally, was drove down to Christies Beach Police Station an got the defect taken off. The SAPOL officer came out checked them and said "Yep, fine to me" and explained I should sell the car as its a target, as these cars get used all the time in high speed pursuits. I then said to him "Have a look in the back. See the child seat? Don't think so bloke".

Mechanic at work has an R32. Got a canary. Went to regency. 2 days after he got it passed, it got done again for the same things which he changed to clear the first defect. So I said for him to take it to the police station and explain whats happened. The officer went out looked at the car. The officer asked if the exhaust was stock, and then took the sticker off and cleared the car when he was satisified with its roadworthiness.

I've also been told, whether its a myth or not or if it works (I don't try to get done, but its goes along like this), if you go to motor reg and give them the registration number and vin, ask if the car is defected as your looking into buying it. If its not then your car isn't defected. As I said I am not sure if it work, or if its a myth.

Yes, I'm bored :)

Don't people do English at school anymore?

Hi

I have an a booking at Regencey to get SA reg on my car ( no Australian compliance plate )and I am not sure about the turbos.Can anyone tell me the exact part numbers that should be on a 1990 GTR turbo .

Cheers

I was under the impression that the form they gave me at my first inspection ( I thought it was just a matter of checking the engine number ) at Sturt road centre gives you and exemption. The form is called " application for exemption from the fitting of a compliance plate ". The car has been registered in QLD and is currently registered in VIC. The car has a Vin plate attached. I have paperwork from ISASO compliance centre in QLD and receipts ($1281 ) for the compliance done in July 07.

I am new to this so If you know anything that will save me a re-inspection fee , I would love to know about it.

Cheers

^^ Same here. My car doesn't need compliance plate either. People from canberra that do compliancing told me my car never got one cause it was imported under some old scheme... and my car was imported sometime in mid-2005. I don't get it, cause I know many cars imported in 90's that have compliance plate... but as long as they're fine with it I dont care...

^^ Same here. My car doesn't need compliance plate either. People from canberra that do compliancing told me my car never got one cause it was imported under some old scheme... and my car was imported sometime in mid-2005. I don't get it, cause I know many cars imported in 90's that have compliance plate... but as long as they're fine with it I dont care...

Yeah, the differences between SEVS and RAWS (15 year rule which no longer applies)

Not quite sure what the diff is but I think the cars imported under the 15 year old rule can get away with a little more...

-D

I took my car to Vehicle inspection and not the regency place. They're right near eachother though. My car just got imported from Japan and all it needed was a Vehicle Inspection. It's on Narweena (sp) St Regency. There were plenty of interstate cars there being checked. Maybe give them a call and see what you need to do?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...