Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL. does anyone else think its funny we have to know rocket science to own a import.

I mean its getting outa hand. We have to know the ins and outs of everything. We will have to know the name of the person on the production line in Japan who fitted the ash tray soon.

People say they are lucky when they get pulled over and just warned. I say its unlucky, Cant I just drive to work etc without being pulled over and hassled?

What about the people that have just bought an Import. Some people honestly wouldnt know what a turbo timer is. , They get pulled over and the officer will tihnk they are just some smart ass punk.

Interesting.

Isotta, momo, monza autotechnica (they also stock car specific adr rails too), and a shitload of others now... few years ago it was only momo.

Most seats nowadays come with ADR approval (all of jjr range for example), however the rails is where youre stuffed.

For a 2 door you must have reclineable seats unless its registered as a 2 seater. For a 4 door it can be either as long as its ADR approved with ADR approved rails.

I asked the regency inspector last time i went through :(

Funny how when i mentioned a roll cage i was given a list of 5 things that needed to be done, none of which had anything to do with the quality of the cage installed. For all they cared I could have gotten my dog to weld it in.

Standards = FAIL

Edited by SkyHi_33
Isotta, momo, monza autotechnica (they also stock car specific adr rails too), and a shitload of others now... few years ago it was only momo.

Most seats nowadays come with ADR approval (all of jjr range for example), however the rails is where youre stuffed.

For a 2 door you must have reclineable seats unless its registered as a 2 seater. For a 4 door it can be either as long as its ADR approved with ADR approved rails.

I asked the regency inspector last time i went through :)

Funny how when i mentioned a roll cage i was given a list of 5 things that needed to be done, none of which had anything to do with the quality of the cage installed. For all they cared I could have gotten my dog to weld it in.

Standards = FAIL

Thanks for that info :(

Too true. When I had a cage installed in my 1600 I had a massive debate over the stupid $1200 charge for a chassis test, to prove the roll cage improved (minimised) the flex of the chassis. I argued its quite obvious that a roll cage would improve the its rating on the chassis test. Ended up tracking down an engineer who had done just the test to the same vehicle and same 4 point cage.

It was like saying "we need you to pay $1200 to prove those Brembos improves the braking of your vehicle". Its kinda bloody obvious isn't it? Why do I need to spend lots of cash to prove how stupid your request is?

faxed off my application to modify a motor vehicle just after lunch...see how we go....what needs to be done...shouldnt be too much really seeing as in std N/A form...a good RB30e will punch out around 110-118kw..and my turbo version is only pumping out 141.0kw at the moment

faxed off my application to modify a motor vehicle just after lunch...see how we go....what needs to be done...shouldnt be too much really seeing as in std N/A form...a good RB30e will punch out around 110-118kw..and my turbo version is only pumping out 141.0kw at the moment

Might be a week or two before you hear back. The list of requirements will come via snail mail, and you'll have 12 months to carry them out.

the vehicle standard dudes tol me the other day that you can have a fixed back seat as a drivers and a reclineable for the passanger in a two door car. they also told me to put any questions like that forward in writing and they will reply in writing.

the vehicle standard dudes tol me the other day that you can have a fixed back seat as a drivers and a reclineable for the passanger in a two door car. they also told me to put any questions like that forward in writing and they will reply in writing.

Good news for me, fixed back drivers, reclinable passenger

^^ logic tells you thats bullshit, the drivers seat is reclinable from the factory so that passengers can get in and out! lul

dont shot the messenger, champ. feel free to put it to the test before you call bullshit.

dont shot the messenger, champ. feel free to put it to the test before you call bullshit.

not shooting the messenger at all, perhaps you misinterpreted where that was aimed. ie, not at you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
×
×
  • Create New...